Yankee Magazine‘s Ultimate Holiday Guide

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Thanksgiving

What Did the Pilgrims Eat at the First Thanksgiving?

Have you ever wondered what the Pilgrims ate at the first Thanksgiving feast in the fall of 1621? We dig into how similar their menu was to the traditional American Thanksgiving meal. by Amy Traverso

The Thanksgiving meal is remarkably consistent in its elements: the turkey, the stuffing, the sweet potatoes, the cranberry sauce. Barring ethical, health, or religious objections, it is pretty much the same meal for everyone, across latitudes and longitudes, and through the years of their lives. We stick with the basics and simply change the seasonings.

But what about that first Thanksgiving in the fall of 1621 (historians don’t know the exact date, but place it sometime between September 21 and November 9), when British settlers hosted the first documented harvest celebration? What did they eat, and how similar is it to the traditional American Thanksgiving meal? Here’s how Edward Winslow described the first Thanksgiving feast in a letter to a friend: “Our harvest being gotten in, our governor sent four men on fowling, that so we might after a special manner rejoice together after we had gathered the fruits of our labor. They four in one day killed as much fowl as, with a little help beside, served the company almost a week. At which time, amongst other recreations, we exercised our arms, many of the Indians coming amongst us, and among the rest their greatest king Massasoit, with some ninety men, whom for three days we entertained and feasted, and they went out and killed five deer, which we brought to the plantation and bestowed on our governor, and upon the captain and others. And although it be not always so plentiful as it was at this time with us, yet by the goodness of God, we are so far from want that we often wish you partakers of our plenty.”

So venison was a major ingredient, as well as fowl, but that likely included pheasants, geese, and duck. Turkeys are a possibility, but were not a common food in that time. Pilgrims grew onions and herbs. Cranberries and currants would have been growing wild in the area, and watercress may have still been available if the hard frosts had held off, but there’s no record of them having been served. In fact, the meal was probably quite meat-heavy. Likewise, walnuts, chestnuts, and beechnuts were abundant, as were sunchokes. Shellfish were common, so they probably played a part, as did beans, pumpkins, squashes, and corn (served in the form of bread or porridge), thanks to the Wampanoags.

What didn’t they have at the first Thanksgiving? Potatoes (white or sweet), bread stuffing or pie (wheat flour was rare), sugar, Aunt Lena’s green bean casserole. But how about bringing a little more truly traditional flavor back to your table? Back in 2003, we consulted with historians at Plimoth Plantation, the Wampanoag and English settlers living history museum in Plymouth, Massachusetts, and asked writer Jane Walsh to devise a menu that incorporated some of the foods that would have been served at the first Thanksgiving. We didn’t eliminate any favorites or try to go sugar-free. We skipped the venison. Really, like everyone else who will gather around a table on the fourth Thursday in November this year, we simply changed the seasonings.

Turkey FAQ | A Thanksgiving Turkey Cheat Sheet

It’s the day before the Big Day and you may have some questions about how to tackle the 14-pound bird that’s currently brining or curing or defrosting or simply waiting in your refrigerator. I’ve pulled together all the essential turkey info into one handy Turkey FAQ. by Amy Traverso

WHAT SIZE TURKEY SHOULD I BUY?

1 1/4 pound per person gets you enough meat for the meal, with leftovers.

HOW LONG WILL IT TAKE TO THAW IN THE REFRIGERATOR?

Estimate 24 hours for every 5 pounds, so 2 days for a 10-pounder, 3 days for a 15-pounder, etc.

HELP! IT’S WEDNESDAY, I JUST BOUGHT MY BIRD, AND IT’S STILL FROZEN!

Leave the turkey in its wrapper and put in a large container (a lobster pot is good). Fill the container with cold tap water and let it sit for 30 minutes. Dump out the water and refill. Let it sit another 30 minutes. Repeat until the turkey is thawed, then roast immediately or transfer to the refrigerator. It’ll still take about 30 minutes per pound (or 6 hours for a 12-pound bird), but it’s faster than the refrigerator method and, most importantly, it’s safe.

CAN I BRINE OR DRY CURE MY TURKEY WHILE IT DEFROSTS IN THE REFRIGERATOR?

Yes. Isn’t that great? You’re multi-multitasking. Just use a lighter brine solution (about 1/2 cup kosher salt per gallon of water, plus sugar and spices). If you’re dry curing, use the standard recipe.

HOW COLD DOES MY TURKEY NEED TO STAY WHILE BRINING?

Below 40˚.

CAN I BRINE OR CURE A KOSHER OR BUTTERBALL-STYLE SUPERMARKET FROZEN TURKEY?

No need. These come pre-brined. So if you want to be able to put your own flavor stamp on your meal, get a “natural,” or untreated bird and do it yourself.

WHAT’S THE BASIC FORMULA FOR A BRINE?

That depends on how long you want to brine. If you plan to do it for 2 days, use the weaker solution above. If you plan to brine for 24 hours or less, bump it up to 1 cup kosher salt per gallon of water. Then add an equal amount of sugar. For flavorings, choose from the following menu, depending on your taste: Lemons, apples, oranges, onion, garlic, shallots, peppercorns, bay leaves, cinnamon sticks, cloves, allspice berries, juniper berries, mustard seeds, fennel seeds, coriander seeds, rosemary, sage, thyme, savory, parsley, oregano. You can also replace half the water with sweet cider, hard cider, vegetable stock, turkey stock, chicken stock, beer, white wine, red wine.

WHAT ABOUT THE FORMULA FOR DRY CURING?

Use about 1/2 teaspoon of kosher salt for every pound of turkey. Then add spices to your taste. Or use our recipe.

SHOULD I TRUSS?

No. Well, okay, if you really like the look of a trussed turkey, you’re welcome to tuck the wing tips under the breast and tie the legs together. But the legs will cook faster if you just leave them alone, and that helps ensure that the breast meat won’t get overcooked while you’re waiting for the legs to catch up.

HOW DO I GET CRISPY SKIN?

At least 6 hours before roasting, let the bird sit, uncovered, in your refrigerator. This dries the skin, which causes it to crisp up in the oven.

WHAT ABOUT STUFFING THE BIRD?

I don’t. In order for stuffing to be safe to consume, it must reach 165˚. But stuffing a bird slows down the cooking, which increases the chances the breast will dry out. I cook mine in a casserole dish.

BUT I LOVE THE WAY THE STUFFING TASTES WHEN IT COOKS IN THE TURKEY!

I sympathize, but there is a middle path, courtesy of Melissa Clark of the New York Times: Most turkeys come with a flap of skin from the neck. Normally, you cut it off and discard it, but you can use it to flavor your dressing. Just chop up the skin and scatter it over the dressing before you put the dish in the oven. As it cooks, the fat and juices will drip into the stuffing, giving it delicious flavor. And when it comes out, you’ll have turkey cracklings to enjoy.

WHAT ABOUT BASTING?

Don’t bother. It doesn’t add flavor and it makes the skin flabby.

WHAT TEMPERATURE SHOULD I USE?

Most cooks swear by a low-and-slow approach, starting at 450˚ but then dropping the temperature to 325˚ after 30 minutes. You’ll need to estimate 12 to 15 minutes per pound, including that initial 30 minute blast of heat. What really matters the most is that you pay close attention to the temperature of the meat, and take the bird out as soon as it’s ready.

WHEN IS IT READY?

When an instant-read thermometer inserted into the breast (all the way to the bone) reaches 160˚. You can also measure the thigh, inserted to the thickest part but not touching the bone—it should read 165˚.

DO I REALLY NEED TO LET THE TURKEY REST AFTER IT COMES OUT OF THE OVEN?

YES. This is essential for juicy meat. Let the turkey sit, tented with foil, for at least 30 minutes.

Bell’s Seasoning | A New England Thanksgiving Classic

A New England spice blend classic dating back to 1867, Bell’s Seasoning has been making Thanksgiving taste good for nearly 150 years. by Aimee Tucher The New England Thanksgiving shopping list may vary from one year to the next (“Is this the year we try to convince Nana she’ll like homemade cranberry sauce?” some of you may be wondering), but there’s one thing we can most definitely be sure of — for turkey and stuffing fans, that list will include a box of Bell’s Seasoning.

One of the oldest spice mixes in the country, Bell’s dates back to 1867, when William F. Bell of Newton, Massachusetts created the blend from an old family recipe. Since then, nothing has changed…and come to think of it, neither has the box. Immediately recognizable with its colorful, (now) vintage looking label, lettering, and hand-drawn turkey, Bell’s is the throwback that never left.

So what’s in Bell’s Seasoning? Each box contains a savory, salt-free, and all-natural blend of rosemary, oregano, sage, ginger, marjoram, thyme, and pepper with no added preservatives, additives, or artificial ingredients. Combined, the aroma is pure Thanksgiving. No really, I mean that. When I asked my co-workers to weigh in on what a whiff of Bell’s smells like to them, the answers were things like chicken, turkey, stuffing, the holidays, and “something exotic.” And since it was created a mere 4 years after President Abraham Lincoln declared Thanksgiving a federal holiday in 1863, maybe it’s fair to say that Bell’s had a subsequent hand in establishing the official savory, spicy profile of the holiday season?

I guess I can’t say that for sure, but Bell’s has certainly won a spot in the hearts and stomachs of New Englanders, both local and transplanted elsewhere. To elaborate, a few years ago we ran a recipe for cornbread stuffing, and a reader named Susan had this to say about it: “Cornbread stuffing? Look out, Yankee Magazine–you’re turning into Southern Living. Cornmeal is for johnnycakes, not stuffing! My Rhode Island and Massachusetts grandmothers always used a firm white bread such as Pepperidge Farm (or homemade), lots of onions, salt and pepper, and plenty of Bell’s Seasoning, made in East Weymouth, Massachusetts. Now, that’s a Yankee recipe!” Susan, we agree that stuffing sounds mighty good. Are you a fan of Bell’s Seasoning? Note: Can’t find Bell’s where you live? You can order a box right from Bell’s online. Love the taste of Bell’s Seasoning in your stuffing but crunched for time on Turkey Day? They also offer up a line of ready-to-make stuffing mixes in both traditional and cranberry flavors. Gobble gobble!

3 Favorite New England Thanksgiving Recipes

Roast Brined Turkey

Following these roast brined turkey instructions will yield a moist, succulent bird. You can brine a 14-pound turkey overnight in the refrigerator in a large lobster pot.  Total Time: 3-1/2-4-1/2 hours, depending on size of bird, plus 12 hours brining Hands-On Time: 40 minutes

For the brine:

Ingredients

• 2-1/4 cups kosher or sea salt
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 3 bay leaves
• 3 cloves garlic, crushed
• 1 tablespoon black peppercorns, cracked with the bottom of a skillet
• 2-3 sprigs each fresh rosemary, thyme, and sage
• 2-1/2 gallons cold water

Instructions

The evening before you roast the turkey, mix the first eight ingredients with the water in your container, stirring until the salt and sugar have completely dissolved. Place the whole turkey in the brine, breast side down, and move it around a bit to expel air from the cavity. Place the container in the refrigerator (or outside, if it’s cold, remembering to add ice and secure the lid); then let the turkey rest in the brine 12 hours.

For the roast:

Ingredients

• 1 12- to 15-pound turkey, preferably fresh
• Extra-virgin olive oil

Instructions

Remove the bird from the brine, and drain it well before roasting. Discard the brine. Preheat your oven to 400° and set a rack to the second-to-lowest position. Tie the ends of the turkey’s leg bones together with soft twine. Massage the skin well with plenty of olive oil. (Thanks to the brining, you don’t need to sprinkle it with salt and pepper.) Place the turkey, breast side down, in a large roasting pan. Transfer to the oven and immediately reduce the heat to 325°. Roast the bird this way for about 10 minutes per pound, basting occasionally. Remove the turkey from the oven, turn it over onto its back, return it to oven, and continue roasting for an additional 5 or 6 minutes per pound, basting occasionally. The bird is fully cooked when an instant-read thermometer registers 150° when inserted into the crease between the thigh and the lower breast, the legs move easily in their hip sockets, and juices run clear when the inner thigh meat is pierced with a meat fork.

Homemade Cranberry Sauce

Also known as “cranberry jelly” this old-fashioned New England recipe for homemade cranberry sauce is simple and flavorful. Feel free to adjust the amount of sugar to your liking. Total Time: 20 minutes Hands-On Time: 5 minutes Yield: About 2 cups

Ingredients

• 1 quart (4 cups) fresh cranberries
• 1 cup water
• 1 – 1 1/2 cups sugar

Instructions

Rinse the cranberries and discard any that are discolored. Combine sugar and water in a large saucepan, and bring to a boil. Stir to dissolve the sugar, then add cranberries. Bring back to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer until most of the cranberries have burst, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and cool completely, then cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

Old-Fashioned Durgin–Park Indian Pudding

For many, the recipe for Durgin–Park Indian pudding, served warm and topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, is the gold standard.