Lost and Vintage Recipes: Entrees and Side Dishes from the Editors of Yankee Magazine

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Table Of Contents:

Vegetable Entrees and Sides Meat and Seafood Entrees

Vegetable Entrees and Side Dishes

Every cook should make a cheese souffle at least once in his or her life. But if that sounds too ambitious (for now), how about trying “woodchuck,” and old Yankee chese-and-corn sauce made to be served on toast or dipped with crusty bread? Or an easy pumpkin custard that makes a delectable Thanksgiving side dish? And when summer rolls around, don’t forget our corn pudding, broiled tomatoes, and zucchini pancakes. Read on to get these entrees, side dishes, and more from the Editors of Yankee Magazine.

BROILED TOMATOES

We love a good heirloom-tomato salad as much as anyone, but it’s nice to remember the magic that a few breadcrumbs and some grated cheese can bring to these sweet summer fruits.

TOTAL TIME: 15 MINUTES • HANDS-ON TIME: 10 MINUTES • YIELD: 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

6 ripe plum tomatoes, halved lengthwise 1/4 cup plain breadcrumbs 3 tablespoons salted butter, softened 3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese 2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme leaves 1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat the broiler. Line a rimmed sheet pan with aluminum foil, shiny side up, and set an oven rack to the top position. Arrange tomato halves in the pan.
2. In a small bowl, stir together the remaining ingredients. Sprinkle the mixture over the tomatoes; then transfer to the top shelf of the oven and broil until nicely browned, 3 to 5 minutes.

ZUCCHINI PANCAKES

These pancakes are a great way to serve summer’s most abundant vegetable. They go well with most meats and can even be served as a main course. For added color, replace . cup of the zucchini with grated carrot. Serve pancakes plain, or top with Greek yogurt or sour cream, plus smoked salmon or prosciutto.

TOTAL TIME: 40 MINUTES • HANDS-ON TIME: 20 MINUTES • YIELD: 12 PANCAKES OR 4 SERVINGS

2 cups grated unpeeled zucchini squash 1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt 3/4 cup all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 1/2 cup grated cheddar or Colby cheese 1 tablespoon thinly sliced scallions (green onions) or 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives 2 large eggs, lightly beaten 2 tablespoons salted butter, melted 1 tablespoon cold salted butter, divided

1. Toss zucchini with the salt in a colander and let stand for 10 minutes. Squeeze out any remaining liquid.
2. In a medium-size mixing bowl, whisk together the flour and baking powder. Stir in the cheese and scallions; then add eggs, melted butter, and zucchini and mix until well combined.
3. Melt 1 teaspoon of the cold butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Spoon batter by the tablespoon into the pan, being careful not to overcrowd. Press down lightly with a spatula to flatten. Brown pancakes lightly on each side, about 4 minutes per side; then transfer to a baking sheet and keep warm in a 200 degrees oven until serving. Repeat with remaining batter and butter.

ZUCCHINI CUTLETS

We found this recipe in Yankee’s archives, listed as a favorite of Mrs. Connie deAngelo of Boston, “one of the few women regulars on Blackstone Street, Haymarket, Boston.” We can only assume she was one of the regular vendors, not shoppers, since women shopped Boston’s famous discount vegetable market in droves (and still do). In the original recipe, Connie recommends serving the cutlets with a sprinkle of parsley or with tomato sauce.

TOTAL TIME: 30 MINUTES • HANDS-ON TIME: 30 MINUTES • YIELD: 6 SERVINGS

3 large zucchini squash 2 large eggs 1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt, plus more to taste 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 rounded tablespoons grated Romano cheese 1 cup seasoned breadcrumbs 6 tablespoons olive oil, divided

1. Trim the ends from the zucchini and cut lengthwise into strips about 1 inch wide, 4 inches long, and 1/2 inch thick. In a small bowl, beat the eggs with 1/2 teaspoon salt and the pepper. In a shallow bowl, stir together the cheese and breadcrumbs. Dip the slices of zucchini in the egg; then drag through the breadcrumb/ cheese mixture to coat.
2. Heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large (12- to 14-inch) skillet over medium heat. Add half the zucchini slices, and brown on both sides, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Turn gently to avoid breaking the slices. Remove to a heated platter, wipe the pan, and repeat with the remaining oil and zucchini. Sprinkle lightly with additional salt, to taste.

CORN PUDDING

When the first European settlers began experimenting with the “Indian” corn that sustained them, they found that this Native American grain was a better match for British-style puddings than breads. Vegetable puddings made with eggs and milk or cream were documented in English cookery books in the 17th century, so it wasn’t a big leap for New Englanders to begin cooking corn in custard. The dish remains as simple and delicious today.

TOTAL TIME: 1 HOUR 30 MINUTES • HANDS-ON TIME: 30 MINUTES • YIELD: 6 SERVINGS

NOTE: Fresh corn kernels right off the cob are always best, but frozen corn will do in a pinch.

3 tablespoons salted butter, plus more for dish 2 cups whole corn kernels (see “Note,” above) 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons granulated sugar 1 teaspoon table salt 3 large eggs 1-3/4 cups milk

1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees and grease a 1.-quart casserole dish.
2. Put 3 tablespoons butter, plus corn, flour, sugar, and salt, into a blender or food processor and pulse until combined. Add eggs, one at a time, mixing after each addition. Add milk and blend. Pour into the prepared dish and bake until set, about 1 hour, stirring once after 20 minutes.

NEW ENGLAND SUCCOTASH

A combination of cranberry beans and corn kernels, succotash was one of the first foods that the Native Americans of coastal New England shared with the Plymouth settlers. Rich in nutrients and inexpensive to make, it was especially popular during the Depression and World War II.

TOTAL TIME: 45 MINUTES • HANDS-ON TIME: 20 MINUTES • YIELD: 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

NOTE: Cranberry beans are closest to the type of bean that would have originally been used in this dish, but fresh or frozen lima beans are a popular substitute.

6 ears fresh corn 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided 3 pounds fresh (not dried) cranberry beans or fresh or frozen lima beans, shelled (see “Note,” above) 1/8 pound salt pork, cut into 4 pieces (optional) 1/2 small onion, minced 2 teaspoons granulated sugar Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1/4 cup heavy cream (optional)

1. Use a sharp knife to cut the kernels from the cobs and set aside.
2. In a large saucepan over medium heat, melt 1 tablespoon butter. Add the beans, salt pork (if using), and onion. Cook, stirring often, until the beans are tender and the onion is golden, about 10 minutes.
3. Stir in the corn and add enough water to cover by . inch. Add the sugar and remaining 3 tablespoons butter. Bring to a gentle bubble and cook, uncovered, for 10 minutes.
4. Remove the salt pork and season with salt and pepper to taste. Add cream, if you like. Serve hot.

CHEESE WOODCHUCK

The origins of this recipe are fodder for a good debate, best argued over a plate of this corn-andcheese sauce on crusty toasted bread. Theory #1: In a 1966 issue of Yankee, reader Mildred B. Larrabee shared this recipe, along with the story of an ill-fated ship from Amsterdam that foundered in a storm off the coast of Maine, in December 1710. On board: hundreds of wheels of wax-coated cheese, many of which floated safely to shore on Peaks Island (the crew were not so lucky). “The women [on the island] were hard-taxed to find ways in which to utilize it in such ingenious recipes as to avoid the exclamation: ‘Oh, not cheese again!’” Larrabee’s kin had deep roots on Peaks Island, and she theorized that this old family recipe might have come from that period. Theory #2: Another “woodchuck” dish, on record from the 1930s, uses canned tomatoes or tomato soup in a flour-thickened sauce with melted cheese. Both are essentially variations on Welsh rarebit. So is this a pre-Revolutionary treat or a 20th-century invention? It’s delicious either way.

TOTAL TIME: 30 MINUTES • HANDS-ON TIME: 30 MINUTES • YIELD: 3 SERVINGS AS A MAIN COURSE, 6 AS A SNACK

2 tablespoons salted butter 1 small onion, minced 1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt 1/2 cup milk 1/2 pound sharp cheese (such as aged Gouda or cheddar), grated 2 large egg yolks, beaten 2 cups fresh corn, scraped from about 3 cobs 2 teaspoons minced fresh parsley or savory 6 slices toasted sourdough or other crusty bread Garnish: minced parsley, savory, or chives

1. Melt butter in a medium-size skillet over medium heat. Add onion and salt and cook until translucent, about 6 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low, add milk, and stir until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Reduce heat to the lowest setting and sprinkle in cheese, stirring continuously.
2. When fully melted, spoon . cup of the mixture into a small bowl with the egg yolks, whisking as you do (see p. 181, top). Whisk in an additional . cup of the mixture; then pour back into the pot. Stir until thickened. Add corn and parsley. Serve hot over toast and garnished with fresh herbs.

COLCANNON

This traditional Irish dish is composed of shredded cabbage or kale and buttery mashed potatoes blended with thinly sliced green onions and chopped fresh parsley. There’s even a song about it, done in traditional Irish folk style:

Did you ever eat Colcannon, made from lovely pickled cream, With the greens and scallions mingled like a picture in a dream? Did you ever make a hole on top to hold the melting flake Of the creamy, flavored butter that your mother used to make? Yes you did, so you did, so did he and so did I, And the more I think about it, sure the nearer I’m to cry. Oh, wasn’t it the happy days when troubles we had not, And our mothers made Colcannon in the little skillet pot.

TOTAL TIME: 1 HOUR • HANDS-ON TIME: 1 HOUR • YIELD: 6 SERVINGS

4 large russet potatoes, peeled and cut into quarters 1/3 cup light or heavy cream 8 tablespoons salted butter, divided 1 small head green cabbage, shredded, or about 2 pounds fresh kale, shredded 8 scallions (green onions), white and green portions, thinly sliced 1/2 cup water Kosher or sea salt, plus more for cooking potatoes Freshly ground black pepper, to taste 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1. Drop the potatoes into a large pot of boiling, salted water. Reduce heat to low and cook, uncovered, at a gentle bubble until tender when pierced, 20 to 30 minutes. Drain; then return potatoes to the pot. Immediately break up the potatoes with a fork or potato masher to release the steam. Add the cream and 4 tablespoons of the butter and beat with a wooden spoon until smooth.
2. Melt the remaining 4 tablespoons of butter in a large skillet and add the shredded cabbage or kale. Stir over medium heat until just wilted, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the scallions and water. Continue stirring until the cabbage is very tender and the liquid evaporates, 7 to 10 minutes more. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
3. Add the cabbage mixture and parsley to the potatoes in the pot. Return the pot to medium heat and cook, stirring, until the potatoes are heated through. Transfer to a serving bowl and serve piping hot.

CHEESE SOUFFLÉ

We have Julia Child to thank for doing the most to popularize this beautiful and useful dish. Cheese souffl. always can be counted on to impress your guests, and it’s easy to make. This recipe is for a 6-cup souffl. mold and serves three amply. If it’s to be the main dish for four or five people, make 1. times the recipe (6 egg yolks and 7 or 8 whites) and use an 8-cup mold. For 6 servings, double the recipe and use two 6-cup molds.

TOTAL TIME: 1 HOUR • HANDS-ON TIME: 20 MINUTES • YIELD: 3 SERVINGS

2-1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for dish 2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan or Romano cheese 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 cup milk 1/2 teaspoon table salt 1/4 teaspoon mustard powder 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 cup (about 5 ounces) shredded sharp cheddar cheese 4 large egg yolks, at room temperature 5 large egg whites, at room temperature

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees and set a rack to the middle position. Butter a straight-sided souff l. dish well, and shake the grated cheese around it to coat.
2. In a 3- to 4-quart saucepan, melt 2. tablespoons butter over medium heat; then stir in flour. Reduce heat to low and gradually drizzle in milk, whisking continuously. Stir in salt, mustard, and cayenne; then add cheese and mix well. (The sauce will be thick.) Transfer to a large bowl and cool for 5 minutes. Stir yolks one by one into the sauce and set aside.
3. In a large, very clean mixing bowl, beat the egg whites until they form firm peaks. Stir a generous dollop of beaten whites into the sauce to lighten it; then very quickly and lightly fold in the rest of the whites. Spoon mixture into the prepared dish and place on the rack in the center of the oven. Immediately reduce heat to 375 degrees.
4. In 25 to 30 minutes, the souffle should be well puffed but still creamy in the center. Let it cook 5 minutes longer and take it to the table, where you’ve already assembled your guests and the other elements of the meal.

SPINACH CREPES

TOTAL TIME: 1 HOUR • HANDS-ON TIME: 40 MINUTES • YIELD: 10 CREPES

FOR THE BATTER: 1 cup milk 2 large eggs 1 cup all-purpose flour 1/4 cup water 3 tablespoons salted butter, melted 1/2 teaspoon table salt

FOR THE FILLING: 3 tablespoons salted butter 10 ounces sliced button mushrooms 2 tablespoons minced shallots 1-1/2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 cup chicken or vegetable broth 10 ounces fresh baby spinach 2 ounces (1/8 pound) Gruyere or cheddar cheese, grated Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1. Put the batter ingredients into a blender and mix until smooth. Let stand at least 30 minutes (or chill for up to 8 hours).
2. Make the filling: In a skillet over medium-high heat, melt butter and saut. mushrooms until golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Reduce heat to medium, add shallots, and cook 1 minute. Sprinkle f lour evenly over vegetables and stir until coated. Add broth, stirring mixture until thickened. Add spinach and cook, stirring, until wilted, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in cheese. Season with salt and pepper.
3. Make the crepes: Mist a crepe pan with no-stick spray; warm over medium heat. For each crepe, pour in . cup batter, instantly swirling around pan to spread evenly to the edges in a thin film. Cook quickly until golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes; then turn and brown other side, about 1 more minute. Pile cooked crepes on top of one another, keeping warm under an inverted plate or pot lid (if you must keep them warm a while, store in a low oven). Divide filling among crepes; then fold around filling. Sprinkle with cheese.

PUMPKIN CUSTARD

With all its sweetness and warm spice, and a texture somewhere between a custard and a souffle, this dish is a bit like eating dessert for dinner. Rose Traverso, grandmother of Yankee senior lifestyle editor Amy Traverso, served it every year at Thanksgiving.

TOTAL TIME: 1 HOUR 10 MINUTES • HANDS-ON TIME: 15 MINUTES • YIELD: 6 SERVINGS

Butter for dish 3 large eggs 1/3 cup granulated sugar 11/4 cups canned pumpkin puree 1/2 cup evaporated milk 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees and set a rack to the middle position. Butter a 1.-quart souffle. dish. Fill a kettle with about 4 cups water and bring to a simmer.
2. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, using a standing or hand-held mixer, beat the eggs and sugar at mediumhigh speed for 2 minutes, until thick and pale yellow. Gently fold in the remaining ingredients.
3. Pour the custard into the prepared dish and set in a baking pan. Transfer both to the oven; then fill the baking pan with enough of the simmering water to come halfway up the sides of the dish. Bake for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to 350 degrees and bake until the center of the custard barely jiggles when shaken, 30 to 45 more minutes. Let sit for 10 minutes; then serve warm or at room temperature.

SQUASH GRATIN WITH GARLIC & ROSEMARY

Mac-and-cheese—essentially a gratin made with pasta —is one of America’s favorite foods. So why not sweet butternut squash in a creamy cheese sauce with a toasted breadcrumb topping? It’s festive enough for the Thanksgiving table.

TOTAL TIME: 1 HOUR 25 MINUTES • HANDS-ON TIME: 55 MINUTES • YIELD: 6 SERVINGS

2 tablespoons heavy cream 3 tablespoons reduced-sodium chicken or vegetable broth 1 medium-size butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1/4-inch-thick crescents and half-moons 4 ounces (1/4 pound) Gruyere cheese, grated 1-1/4 teaspoons kosher or sea salt, divided 3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided 4 tablespoons salted butter, divided 1 large yellow onion, diced 2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary 1-1/2 ounces crusty white bread, torn into small pieces 2 cloves garlic, minced 1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees and set an oven rack to the middle position. In a large bowl, whisk together cream and broth; then add squash, cheese, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Toss well. Pour into a large gratin or baking dish, cover with foil, and bake until squash is tender, 35 to 45 minutes, turning the dish and removing the foil halfway through. Remove from the oven and set aside. Leave the oven on.
2. Meanwhile, melt 3 tablespoons butter in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add diced onion, and cook, stirring occasionally, until it begins to brown, about 10 minutes. Add rosemary, remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper; cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Spread evenly over squash. Turn the broiler to high.
3. In a food processor, pulse bread with remaining 1 tablespoon butter, garlic, and nutmeg to create coarse breadcrumbs. Sprinkle over squash. Broil, uncovered, until topping is golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Let rest at least 20 minutes before serving.

Meat and Seafood Entrees

Rediscover the joy of childhood favorites such as real Swedish meatballs and turkey Tetrazzini, or find ultimate comfort in our chicken and dumplings or chicken pot pies with cheddar-biscuit crusts. Then celebrate New England’s coastal cuisine with an old-fashioned lobster pie or the most delicious red clam sauce you’ll ever taste.

ALL-STAR CHICKEN & DUMPLINGS

The word dumpling goes back to 17th-century England, but the practice of cooking little pieces of dough in soup or stew goes back much further, in both Europe and Asia. Chicken and dumplings like these, in which lightly leavened dough is cooked in chicken stew, have their roots in Pennsylvania German and Acadian cooking. This dish, which we’ve adapted from our friends at The Old Farmer’s Almanac, is a wonderfully efficient way to use a chicken. The whole bird goes into the pot to make the broth, and then the meat is added back in at the end with some aromatics and the dumplings.

To make this dish easier, we made the dumplings by simply dropping them into the broth, rather than rolling them out and cutting them into strips. This is one of the most satisfying and comforting foods you can make, perfect for any rainy or snowy or otherwise sniffly day.

TOTAL TIME: 2 HOURS • HANDS-ON TIME: 1 HOUR • YIELD: 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

FOR THE SOUP: 1 whole 4- to 5-pound chicken 5 bay leaves 4 tablespoons salted butter 1-1/2 tablespoons table salt, plus more to taste 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 4 large carrots, sliced into half-moons about 1/2 inch thick 2 large stalks celery, sliced crosswise about 1/4 inch thick 1 large yellow onion, diced Garnish: minced fresh parsley

FOR THE DUMPLINGS: 3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for work surface 1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon table salt 1/2 cup vegetable oil 3/4 cup water 2 small or medium-size eggs

1. Wash the chicken and put into a large soup pot. Cover with 1 to 2 inches of water and add bay leaves, butter, salt, and pepper. Cover, set over high heat, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, partially cover, and simmer gently until the chicken is cooked through, about 1 hour.
2. When the chicken is done, transfer it to a cutting board, leaving the broth and bay leaves in the pot. When the chicken is cool enough to handle, pull the meat from the bone in small pieces and set aside. (Discard the bones, skin, and other waste).
3. Meanwhile, make the dumplings: In a large bowl, whisk together the f lour, baking powder, and salt. Add the oil and stir to coat the flour; then add the water and eggs. Stir just enough to combine.
4. Bring the broth back to a boil and add carrots, celery, and onion. Drop the dumpling dough into the boiling broth, a heaping tablespoon at a time, to form balls. Boil approximately 20 minutes, uncovered, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking, until the dumplings are done (they’ll be slightly puffed) and the broth is a bit thicker. Return the chicken to the pot in the last 5 minutes of cooking. Remove bay leaves before serving. Serve hot, garnished with parsley.

CHICKEN POT PIES WITH CHEDDAR–SCALLION BISCUITS

It’s hard to imagine a more comforting combination than savory chicken pot pie filling topped with cheesy biscuits. Butternut squash replaces the usual potatoes for a nice hit of color and sweetness.

TOTAL TIME: 1 HOUR 20 MINUTES • HANDS-ON TIME: 1 HOUR • YIELD: 6 TO 7 SERVINGS

NOTE: Using precooked rotisserie chicken meat saves valuable prep time.

MAKE-AHEAD TIP: Prepare pies up to the point of baking; then wrap tightly in foil and freeze for up to 3 months. When ready to use, let them sit at room temperature for 15 minutes; then bake at 400 degrees for 35 to 45 minutes.

FOR THE FILLING: 3 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth 3 medium-size carrots, peeled and diced 1/2 small butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and diced 4 tablespoons salted butter 1 large celery rib, diced 1 medium-size yellow onion, diced 1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt 1 cup roughly chopped white button mushrooms 5 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 cup milk 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons minced flat-leaf parsley 3 cups chopped cooked chicken, white and dark meat (see “Note,” above) 1/3 cup sweet peas (frozen is fine)

FOR THE BISCUITS: 2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for work surface 2 teaspoons baking powder 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon table salt 5 tablespoons cold salted butter, cut into small cubes 2/3 cup grated sharp cheddar cheese 2 scallions (green onions), green parts only, thinly sliced 1 large egg 2/3 cup buttermilk Milk (for brushing biscuits)

1. First, make the filling: In a medium-size saucepan over high heat, bring chicken broth to a boil. Add carrots and squash. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until vegetables are tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Drain vegetables, reserving broth. Set aside.
2. Melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add celery, onion, and salt; cook until golden, 10 to 12 minutes. Add mushrooms and cook until they release most of their liquid, 5 to 7 minutes. Add flour and cook, stirring, about 2 minutes. Add milk slowly, whisking as you do; then add reserved broth, whisking until smooth. Cook, stirring often, until sauce thickens, 8 to 10 minutes. Season with pepper. Add parsley, chicken, reserved vegetables, and peas. Divide filling evenly among 6 ramekins or other 8- to 10-ounce ovenproof bowls, leaving about a half-inch at the top for biscuits. If you have extra filling, put it in another ramekin.
3. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Make the biscuits: In a large bowl, whisk flour with baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Working quickly so that the butter stays cold, use your fingers to smear the butter into the flour mixture until it resembles coarse meal, with plenty of lumps. Stir in cheddar and scallions. In a medium-size bowl, whisk together egg and buttermilk; add to flour mixture. Stir with a fork until a shaggy dough forms. Don’t overmix.
4. Divide dough into two balls. On a lightly floured counter, press dough out to a .-inch thickness. Using a floured biscuit cutter or rim of a glass, cut out 2- to 3-inch rounds. Gather dough again as needed and press out again. Repeat with second dough ball. Divide biscuits among ramekins, overlapping as necessary. Brush tops with milk, and set ramekins on a baking sheet lined with foil. Bake until crust is nicely browned and filling is bubbling, about 20 minutes.

CHICKEN CACCIATORE

Reader Fredericka Jones shared this recipe with us about 10 years ago. It arrived via Ellis Island with her father, Louis Janus Vici; he cut a dashing figure in World War I, serving in the Air Corps as a navigator, gunner, and bombardier. He was a great cook, too, if this recipe is any evidence.

TOTAL TIME: 1. HOURS • HANDS-ON TIME: 45 MINUTES • YIELD: 6 SERVINGS

1 3- to 4-pound chicken, cut into 8 parts 2-1/2 teaspoons kosher or sea salt, divided 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 3 tablespoons salted butter 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 medium-size onion, finely chopped 1/2 pound fresh button mushrooms, sliced 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1/2 cup dry white wine, such as Pinot Grigio 2 tablespoons cognac 1 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth 3 cups canned diced tomatoes, drained 1–2 cloves garlic, minced 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

1. Rinse chicken; pat dry and season all over with 2 teaspoons salt and the pepper. In a 4- to 5-quart ovensafe pot over medium-high heat, melt butter with oil. Add chicken and brown on all sides, working in batches to avoid overcrowding. Remove and set aside.
2. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Add onion, mushrooms, and remaining salt to pot. Cook, stirring often, until onion is translucent, about 6 minutes. Add flour and stir. Cook, stirring continuously, until glossy. Remove from heat; add wine, cognac, broth, tomatoes, and garlic. Return to heat and simmer 10 minutes. Return chicken to pot. Cover and bake until chicken is cooked through, 45 to 55 minutes. Remove chicken and keep warm on a serving plate. Bring sauce to a boil in the pot on the stovetop; cook until volume is reduced to about 3 cups. Add herbs. Serve with crusty bread or over linguine or polenta.

CHICKEN À LA KING

This dish dates back more than 100 years—to sometime between 1800 and about 1910. As with many recipes, there are several stories of its origin: Was it an invention of a chef named William King, who worked at Philadelphia’s Bellevue Hotel? A creation of chef George Greenwald, in honor of his boss, Mr. King, at New York’s Brighton Beach Hotel? There are a few other theories, but no one knows the answer for certain.

In any case, the fundamentals of the dish include chicken in a cream sauce with mushrooms and peppers or pimentos, as well as some sherry or Madeira. Older versions of the recipe called for thickening the sauce with a combination of cream, egg yolks, and roux (a flour/butter mixture).

Over time the dish morphed into a heavy glop of chicken swimming in an overly flour-thickened sauce. Midcentury recipes even replaced the original sauce with cream of chicken soup; it became the stuff of cafeteria lines. But there’s still a gem of deliciousness in this recipe, so we updated it with more vegetables, fresh herbs and shallots, less flour, and cr.me fra.che (or sour cream).

TOTAL TIME: 45 MINUTES • HANDS-ON TIME: 45 MINUTES • YIELD: 4 TO 5 SERVINGS

NOTE: You can poach your own chicken for this recipe, but you can save time by using the meat from a rotisserie bird.

3 teaspoons kosher or sea salt, divided 2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth 3 tablespoons dry sherry 1 tablespoon salted butter 2 tablespoons olive oil 3 large shallots, minced 1/2 cup diced red bell pepper 1/4 cup diced green bell pepper 2 cups sliced button mushrooms 1 pound egg noodles 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon paprika 2 sprigs fresh tarragon 2-1/3 cups cooked shredded chicken (see “Note,” above) 1/2 cup cr.me fraiche or sour cream 2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley Garnish: minced fresh parsley

1. Set a large pot of water seasoned with 2 teaspoons salt over high heat.
2. In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, bring broth and sherry to a simmer.
3. Meanwhile, melt butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add oil, shallots, peppers, and remaining 1 teaspoon salt to the skillet and cook, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes. Increase heat to medium-high, add mushrooms, and cook, stirring often, until lightly browned, about 7 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, when the water is boiling, add the egg noodles and cook according to package instructions. Drain and set aside.
5. Add flour and paprika to the skillet and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add hot broth mixture in a thin stream, stirring as you go. The sauce should bubble and thicken. Add tarragon sprigs.
6. Reduce heat to low and add chicken, cr.me fraiche (or sour cream), and parsley. Cook 10 minutes; then serve over the egg noodles, with a sprinkling of additional parsley.

TURKEY TETRAZZINI

It may sound Italian, but tetrazzini is an American dish first invented in San Francisco in the early 1900s. It paid homage to soprano Luisa Tetrazzini, an Italian native who loved the city so much that she performed a free public concert there on Christmas Eve 1910, for a crowd estimated at more than 200,000. The dish caught on and soon became a favorite way to use up leftover turkey after Thanksgiving. We’ve modernized it with a little less cream and more vegetables.

TOTAL TIME: 1 HOUR • HANDS-ON TIME: 40 MINUTES • YIELD: 6 SERVINGS

NOTE: If you’re using chicken instead of turkey in this recipe, you can poach your own, but you can save time by using the meat from a rotisserie bird.

4 teaspoons kosher or sea salt, divided 2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth 1/3 cup dry sherry 5 tablespoons salted butter, divided 1 medium-size yellow onion, diced 2 medium-size cloves garlic, minced 4 cups (10 ounces) sliced button mushrooms 1 small red bell pepper, seeded and diced 1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 1/2 teaspoon paprika 1 pound egg noodles 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1/2 cup milk 1/4 cup light cream 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese 2-1/2 cups shredded cooked turkey (or chicken) breast (see “Note,” above) Garnish: chopped fresh parsley

1. Set a large pot of water over high heat and add 2 teaspoons salt.
2. In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, bring broth and sherry to a simmer.
3. In a large (14-inch) skillet, melt 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Add onion, garlic, mushrooms, red pepper, 1 teaspoon salt, nutmeg, and paprika; cook, stirring often, until vegetables soften, 8 to 10 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low and continue cooking until golden brown, about 10 more minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer vegetables to a bowl and set aside.
4. Once water is boiling, add egg noodles. Cook according to package instructions until tender. Drain and set aside, covered.
5. Meanwhile, melt remaining butter in the skillet over medium heat. Add flour and cook, stirring until mixture looks glossy, about 3 minutes. Add broth and sherry mixture in a slow stream, whisking as you do. Bring to a simmer and cook until thickened, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and add milk, cream, cheese, and remaining 1 teaspoon salt. Whisk together. Reduce heat to low, return pan to heat, and stir until thickened. Stir in vegetable mixture and cooked turkey (or chicken). Serve hot over noodles with a generous sprinkling of parsley.

BEEF STROGANOFF

This Russian dish has been around for several centuries (Larousse Gastronomique dates it to the 1700s), but it wasn’t until the 1940s and ’50s that it became all the rage in the United States. Here’s a delicious rendition that pays tribute to the “gourmet” chafing-dish dinner party. Now, as then, beef Stroganoff is a good thing to cook in front of a small crowd.

TOTAL TIME: 45 MINUTES • HANDS-ON TIME: 45 MINUTES • YIELD: 6 SERVINGS

NOTE: Tenderloin is the best cut of beef here, but a good cut of top sirloin can have excellent flavor and texture, if not as melt-in-your-mouth as the tenderloin.

5 teaspoons kosher or sea salt, divided 1-3/4–2 pounds beef tenderloin (see “Note,” above) 5 tablespoons salted butter, divided 1 small yellow onion, minced 10 ounces (4 cups) sliced fresh button mushrooms 1 pound egg noodles 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 2 cups reduced-sodium beef broth 3 tablespoons cognac or brandy 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon paprika 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg 1 cup sour cream, at room temperature

1. Set a large pot of water to boil with 2 teaspoons salt.
2. Meanwhile, cut beef into slivers about 1. inches long, 1/2 inch wide, and . inch thick. Pat dry; then sprinkle with 1. teaspoons salt. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a large (14-inch) skillet over medium-high heat; then add half the beef. Saute until seared, 4 to 7 minutes per batch; then transfer to a bowl. Repeat with remaining beef. Increase heat to high, add 2 tablespoons butter; then add onion, mushrooms, and remaining salt. Cook until mushrooms are lightly browned, about 5 minutes; then transfer to the bowl with beef.
3. Add noodles to the pot of boiling water and cook according to package instructions until tender. Drain and set aside, covered.
4. Add remaining butter and the f lour to the skillet. Brown 3 minutes; then slowly whisk in broth. Remove from the heat and add cognac. Return to heat and whisk in mustard, paprika, pepper, and nutmeg. When sauce has thickened, turn the heat off and add sour cream. Add meat, onions, and mushrooms back into the pan and stir. Serve over noodles.

MAPLE-GLAZED SPARERIBS

These ribs are so finger-licking sticky good you may want to put finger bowls—warm water with lemon slices—on the table along with plenty of napkins for your guests. And don’t be intimidated by making your own spice rub or barbecue glaze; it’s as easy as stirring.

TOTAL TIME: 3.–4 HOURS • HANDS-ON TIME: 25 MINUTES • YIELD: 6 SERVINGS

FOR THE RIBS: 1 2-1/2-pound rack baby back pork ribs 2 tablespoons firmly packed light-brown sugar 1 tablespoon paprika 1 tablespoon kosher or sea salt 1 tablespoon onion powder 1/8–1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

FOR THE GLAZE: 1 tablespoon canola oil 1 tablespoon freshly minced garlic 1/4 cup minced onion 2 tablespoons tomato paste 1 tablespoon cider vinegar 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 1/2–1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce (optional) 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves 3/4 cup maple syrup (any grade) 1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt

1. Rinse ribs with cold water and pat dry with paper towels. Cut between bones and arrange in a 13×9-inch baking dish.
2. Make the rub: In a small bowl, stir together brown sugar, paprika, salt, onion powder, and cayenne. Coat each rib with rub, cover with aluminum foil, and chill at least 2 hours (up to overnight).
3. Remove ribs from refrigerator, and preheat the oven to 350 degrees. When hot, transfer ribs, covered with foil, to oven and bake 30 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, make the glaze: Put oil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Add garlic and onion; cook until translucent, 5 minutes. Add remaining ingredients. Whisk together; simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally, 10 minutes.
5. Remove ribs from oven and turn. Cover and return to oven; bake 30 minutes more. Remove and baste with a third of the glaze, turning with tongs to coat. Return to oven uncovered, reduce heat to 325 degrees, and bake until tender, 30 to 45 minutes more. Remove and coat with another third of the glaze. Serve with remaining glaze on the side.

“PAPER BAG” MEATLOAF

Carol Learned of Albuquerque, New Mexico, wrote to us some years back to share this unusual meatloaf recipe. “My grandfather, George Learned, taught me to cook,” she wrote. “This is his recipe for meatloaf that I’ve been using for 45 years, and I would imagine he used it for as many before that. He was well known in Ware, Massachusetts, for running Dale Brothers’ Laundry until he retired, and then he often cooked at church suppers. Any meatloaf recipe can be used—the secret is in the brown-paper wrap.” We do like the way the paper wrap tends to absorb some of the grease from the meat and gives the loaf a nice crust. However, in our tests, we liked parchment paper even better because the meat doesn’t stick to it. (George Learned used to butter his paper bag to prevent sticking.) We also altered the seasonings a bit to vary the flavor.

TOTAL TIME: 1 HOUR 50 MINUTES • HANDS-ON TIME: 20 MINUTES • YIELD: 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

1-1/4 pounds ground beef 3/4 pound ground pork 2 large eggs 1 medium-size yellow onion, finely chopped 1 medium-size green pepper, finely chopped 1 cup plain breadcrumbs 3 tablespoons ketchup 1 tablespoon mustard 1-3/4 teaspoons table salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Put all the ingredients in a large bowl and use clean hands to gently toss them together until evenly mixed.
2. Lay a piece of parchment approximately 18×13 inches into a rimmed baking sheet, and turn the meat mixture onto the paper. Shape into a rounded loaf; then wrap completely in parchment to form a neat package, tucking the ends underneath.
3. Transfer the loaf on the baking sheet to the oven and bake until the internal temperature reaches 160 degrees, about 1. hours. Let cool 10 minutes; then remove the parchment and serve.

MONTE CRISTO SANDWICHES

The Monte Cristo is clearly a variation on the French croque monsieur. What’s not clear is where this particular iteration was first created; most sources point to Southern California in the 1940s. In any case, as New Englanders adopted the sandwich, they added an ingenious garnish: a bowl of maple syrup for dipping. And thus the SoCal sandwich was perfected.

TOTAL TIME: 25 MINUTES • HANDS-ON TIME: 25 MINUTES • YIELD: 4 SERVINGS

2-1/2 tablespoons salted butter, at room temperature 8 slices crusty bread, such as country white 8 slices good-quality ham 8 slices Swiss cheese 5 large eggs, beaten 1-1/2 teaspoons kosher or sea salt Maple syrup (any grade) for serving

1. Take 4 slices of bread and generously butter one side of each slice. Set slices butter side down on a cutting board and top each one with 2 slices of ham and 2 slices of cheese. Set aside.
2. Take the remaining 4 slices of bread and butter one side of each slice. Set slices buttered side up on top of each sandwich.
3. In a shallow bowl, whisk the eggs with the salt. Dip the sandwiches into the egg mixture, pressing and turning to make sure the bread is coated.
4. Set a large (14-inch) skillet over medium heat. When hot, add the sandwiches and brown well on each side, 5 to 7 minutes per side. Cut each sandwich into 2 pieces on the diagonal and serve with maple syrup on the side for dipping.

SWEDISH MEATBALLS

The 1950s and 1960s saw a love of all things Nordic: Dansk tableware, Danish furniture, and Scandinavian food (ever attend a smorgasbord buffet party?). Swedish meatballs became a staple of many an American childhood, often made simpler for home cooks with the addition of cream of mushroom soup. But really, it’s the rolling and cooking of the balls that takes the most time; making the gravy is a 5-minute job. So try this from-scratch version and enjoy the real thing.

TOTAL TIME: 1 HOUR 50 MINUTES • HANDS-ON TIME: 1 HOUR 50 MINUTES • YIELD: 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

FOR THE MEATBALLS: 3 slices white bread 1/2 cup milk 1 small onion, minced 4 tablespoons salted butter, divided 1-1/2 teaspoons kosher or sea salt, divided 1-1/4 pounds ground pork 2 large eggs 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 3/4 pound ground beef

FOR THE GRAVY: 2–3 tablespoons salted butter 1/3 cup all-purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt 3 cups reduced-sodium beef broth 1/4 cup light cream

1. Break bread slices into small pieces and put in a medium-size bowl. Pour milk over bread and toss with your hands to moisten evenly. Set aside.
2. In a medium-size skillet over medium heat, cook the onion in 1 tablespoon butter with . teaspoon salt until translucent, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat.
3. Drain excess milk from bread, squeezing lightly. Add to the bowl of a standing mixer (or if using a handheld mixer, leave in bowl). Add onion, pork, eggs, remaining 1 teaspoon salt, allspice, and pepper, and beat until smooth, 2 minutes, scraping down sides occasionally as you do. When mixture is smooth, break ground beef into very small pieces and stir just until evenly distributed.
4. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Roll the meat mixture into balls with your hands.
5. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a large (at least 14-inch) pan over medium heat. Add a batch of balls to pan and cook, turning frequently with tongs, until browned on all sides, 8 to 10 minutes. When the first batch is done, put in a deep, covered ovenproof dish and transfer to oven to keep warm. Add remaining 2 tablespoons butter to the pan and brown a second batch of meatballs. Repeat as needed; transfer all meatballs to the oven while you make the gravy.
6. Increase heat under pan to medium-high. If your pan has some drippings, add 2 tablespoons of butter; if not, use 3. Add flour and salt and whisk; the mixture will be crumbly. Add broth 1 cup at a time, whisking continuously until smooth. Add cream at end and stir well. Pour gravy over meatballs and return to oven for 10 minutes before serving.

BELGIAN-STYLE PORK CARBONNADE

This hearty beer-and-onion stew is a national dish of Belgium and became very fashionable in the United States both in the 1970s and again more recently, thanks to the rise of the craft-beer movement. It’s commonly made with beef, but this pork version is every bit as delicious. Choose a hoppy ale or lager—and bring home a few extras to tide you over during the three-hour braise. Serve over generously buttered egg noodles. The optional fresh horseradish root is worth seeking out.

TOTAL TIME: ABOUT 4 HOURS • HANDS-ON TIME: 45 MINUTES • YIELD: 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

8 ounces thick-cut bacon, coarsely chopped 6 sprigs fresh thyme, divided 3 tablespoons olive oil, divided 3 pounds boneless pork shoulder trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces, divided 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt, plus more to taste 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste 4 medium-size yellow onions, cut into 1/4-inch slices 1 tablespoon granulated sugar 4 cloves garlic, minced 1/4 cup all-purpose flour 1-1/2 cups reduced-sodium chicken or beef broth 12 ounces Belgian-style beer 1 (14.5-ounce) can whole tomatoes, rinsed, drained, and roughly chopped 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar 2 bay leaves Buttered egg noodles Garnish: 1/2 cup grated fresh horseradish root (optional)

1. Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Cook bacon and 1 thyme sprig in a large Dutch oven over medium heat until browned and crisped; with a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain, reserving fat in a separate bowl.
2. Heat 1 tablespoon reserved bacon fat and 1 tablespoon olive oil in the now-empty pan over medium  high heat. Thoroughly dry pork with paper towels, and season with 1 tablespoon salt and 1 teaspoon pepper. Cook half the pork, without moving the pieces, until well browned, 5 to 7 minutes, lowering heat if necessary to prevent burning; using tongs, flip the pieces and cook until the second side is browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer pork and all juices to a large bowl. Repeat with 1 tablespoon bacon fat, 1 tablespoon olive oil, and remaining pork.
3. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in the now empty pan; add onions, sugar, and remaining 1 teaspoon salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, 12 to 14 minutes. Add garlic and continue cooking until fragrant, about 1 minute more. Add flour and cook until lightly browned, about 2 minutes more. Stir in broth, then beer, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon. Add pork, tomatoes, vinegar, bay leaves, reserved bacon, and remaining thyme sprigs. Bring to a vigorous simmer, cover, and transfer to the lower-middle rack of the oven.
4. Cook 1 hour; remove cover, stir, and continue cooking, uncovered, until pork is fork-tender and sauce is thick, about 2 hours more. Remove from oven and let rest at least 20 minutes.
5. Remove thyme sprigs and bay leaves, adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, and serve over buttered egg noodles. Garnish with grated fresh horseradish, if you like.

BAKED SEA SCALLOPS WITH GARLIC & VERMOUTH

Contemporary cooks are fond of using red and white wines in their sauces and braises, but we rarely think to use vermouth these days, which is a shame. This fortified wine, flavored with a proprietary blend of herbs and barks, has a wonderfully concentrated flavor that goes well with seafood and poultry. Scallops and vermouth were a popular pairing in the 1950s and 1960s; in fact, both Craig Claiborne, then food editor of the New York Times, and Ren. Verdon, chef of the Kennedy White House, published cookbooks that featured scallops marinated in vermouth. The combination of butter, garlic, and vermouth in this sauce is heavenly—be sure to serve with lots of bread for mopping up the juices.

TOTAL TIME: 45 MINUTES • HANDS-ON TIME: 20 MINUTES • YIELD: 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

NOTE: If at all possible, seek out “dry” scallops for your cooking. They’re pale beige in color and have a purer flavor. So-called “wet” scallops are kept in a phosphate solution that turns them milky white and makes them absorb water, thus diluting their sweetness.

5 tablespoons salted butter, plus more for dish 2 pounds sea scallops (see “Note,” above) 3 large cloves garlic, minced 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 2-1/2 tablespoons dry vermouth 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese 3/4 cup panko breadcrumbs 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1-1/2 teaspoons kosher or sea salt

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter the bottom of a 9×13-inch baking dish. Wash scallops and pat dry. Arrange in a single layer in the dish and set aside.
2. Melt butter in a small skillet over medium-low heat. And garlic and cook until just translucent, about 1 minute. Remove from heat and stir in lemon juice and vermouth. Pour over scallops. Sprinkle cheese, panko, pepper, and salt over scallops. Bake until scallops are just translucent in the center, about 20 minutes. Serve with crusty bread to soak up the juices.