Best of Maine from the Editors of Yankee Magazine [easy-social-share buttons=”facebook,twitter,pinterest,google,mail,print,more” sharebtn_style=”icon” counters=0 style=”icon” point_type=”simple”] Table Of Contents: Best Attractions Best Lodging Best Dining Best Bargains Best Classic Attractions Best Outdoor Attractions Spotlight: Mount Desert Island Spotlight: Portland Best Attractions in Maine Looking for fun in Vacationland? You won’t have to look far! Read our picks for […]
Looking for fun in Vacationland? You won’t have to look far! Read our picks for the best attractions in Maine.
CINEMA OR DRIVE-IN
THE GRAND, Ellsworth
Funded by the city of Ellsworth as part of the community’s rebirth from a devastating 1933 fire, the Grand was a model of art deco elegance when it first opened in 1938. Now a nonprofit performing arts center that draws audiences from throughout Down East, it has retained its original beauty while adding more comfortable seats and a stage extension for concerts and live theater. But cinema remains the mainstay at the Grand, which offers a stellar lineup of first-run art films and documentaries and frequent special repertory screenings.
207-667-9500; grandonline.org
GENERAL STORE
BESSIE’S FARM GOODS, Freeport
A short hop from the outlet stores of downtown Freeport on the way to Wolfe’s Neck, Bessie’s is as tightly focused on local goods and local needs as the outlets are on name-brand bargains. The loving project of former teachers Kathy Heye and Deede Montgomery, Bessie’s is a reinterpretation of what a general store can be. The shelves are positively overflowing with homemade wares (lobster mittens, anyone?), garden produce, locally spun yarn, and more. Folks stop in at Bessie’s as much to chat as shop, and a neighbor might phone in to reserve the last mint brownie.
207-865-9840; bessiesfarmgoods.com
HISTORICAL EXPERIENCE
BURNT ISLAND “LIVING LIGHTHOUSE” TOUR, Boothbay Harbor
Being a lighthouse keeper might sound like a romantic adventure in isolation, but the historic interpreters on Burnt Island ground that romance in the quotidian details of eking out a living and keeping the light on for vessels coming into Boothbay Harbor. The 15-minute cruise aboard the Novelty from Boothbay’s Pier 8 takes passengers back to the 1950s to “meet” keeper Joseph Muise, his wife, and their three daughters. Tours operate Monday and Thursday from July to late August.
207-633-2284; balmydayscruises.com
LAKE CRUISE
THE BIRCHES RESORT’S MOOSE CRUISES & SAFARIS, Rockwood
Maine’s biggest lake and its biggest land mammal seem to have an affinity for each other. Moosehead Lake is prime feeding ground for moose, the largest member of the deer family, which—despite stretching almost nine feet long and standing six feet high at the shoulder—can prove tricky to spot. But summer is a good time to look for cows and calves foraging at the edges of the lake, especially with these seasoned wilderness guides bringing you close to the feeding grounds via pontoon boat.
800-825-9453; birches.com
NATURE EXPERIENCE
CASTINE KAYAK ADVENTURES BIOLUMINESCENCE NIGHT PADDLE TRIPS, Castine
Location, location, location. Gorgeous glow-in-the-dark phytoplankton flourish in just a few spots around the world, and luckily for us their favored hangouts include Castine Harbor, where the Bagaduce River meets the cold Penobscot Bay. The best way to experience their magic is on one of Castine Kayak Adventures’ nighttime group trips: Every dip of the paddle makes the night sea glow with the tiny bioluminescent creatures, rivaling the swirl of stars in the Milky Way overhead.
207-866-3506; castinekayak.com
NEW CULTURAL ATTRACTION
CENTER FOR MAINE CONTEMPORARY ART, Rockland
With its sawtooth corrugated metal roof and array of north-facing windows to let in the coastal light, Toshiko Mori’s stunning design gives it a commanding presence in Rockland. Three galleries house ever-changing exhibitions of contemporary art, much of it heroic in scale. Artists have a Maine connection by birth or by choice, and sharp curatorial choices emphasize both sense of place and aesthetic achievement. The new CMCA joins the Farnsworth Art Museum in making Rockland the art capital of the midcoast.
207-701-5005; cmcanow.org
BREWERY TOURS
THE MAINE BREW BUS, Greater Portland & Beyond
Leave the driving to Lenny, the Maine Brew Bus, as you sip and tour Southern Maine breweries, brewpubs, wineries and distilleries. Tickets includes transportation, tours, tastings, and gratuities. Most tours depart from The Craft Beer Cellar on Commercial St.
207-245-1940; themainebrewbus.com
MARITIME MUSEUM
MAINE MARITIME MUSEUM, Bath
Spread out on 20 riverside acres are five original 19th-century buildings from the Percy & Small Shipyard, a late-Victorian home, a contemporary museum, and plentiful hands-on exhibits detailing Maine’s rich seafaring heritage. Reserve in advance for a Bath Iron Works yard tour.
243 Washington St. 207-443-1316; mainemaritimemuseum.org
RAILWAY MUSEUM
BOOTHBAY RAILWAY VILLAGE, Boothbay
All aboard! Ride a narrow-gauge steam train through a rural village setting, view more than 60 antique vehicles, and explore informative exhibits in historic buildings at one of Maine’s oldest railway museums.
586 Wiscasset Rd. (Route 27). 207-633-4727; railwayvillage.org
GIFT STORE GALLERY
GIFTS AT 136, Damariscotta
Maine-made fine and folk art and crafts in all price ranges, along with Maine-made chocolates, make for intriguing browsing and delicious buying at this downtown shop.
136 Main St. 207-563-1011; giftsat136.com
WINDJAMMER FOR WINE LOVERS
SCHOONER STEPHEN TABER, Rockland
Sips ahoy! Not only does the Taber serve wine with dinner every night, it also offers three- to six-day wine-themed cruises, with guided discussions and tastings.
Windjammer Wharf. 800-999-7352; stephentaber.com
Best Coastal Footpath | Marginal Way, Ogunquit
Credit: Annie Graves
Best Coastal Footpath | Marginal Way, Ogunquit Credit: Annie Graves
COASTAL FOOTPATH
MARGINAL WAY, Ogunquit
Frequent benches make it easy to rest and enjoy the views on this mile-long, gently rolling, paved footpath hugging Ogunquit’s shoreline from Perkins Cove to Shore Road.
marginalwayfund.org
HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT – LIGHTHOUSE
WEST QUODDY HEAD, Lubec (1858)
Visit the exhibits in the keeper’s house and climb the candy-striped tower; then picnic overlooking Grand Manan and hike the trails over the cliffs and around the bogs as you watch for birds and whales.
South Lubec Rd. 207-733-2180; westquoddy.com
HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT – CEMETERY TOUR
MOUNT HOPE CEMETERY, Bangor (1834)
America’s second-oldest garden cemetery is the final resting place for luminaries including Vice President Hannibal Hamlin, painter Waldo Pierce, and gangster Al Brady, as well as a filming location for Stephen King’s Pet Sematary. Download a map for a self-guided visit, or join one of the Bangor Historical Society’s guided tours.
1048 State St. 207-945-6589; mthopebgr.com. 207-942-1900 (Bangor Historical Society);bangorhistoricalsociety.org
DIVA DIVERSION
NORDICA HOMESTEAD MUSEUM, Farmington
Turn-of-the-20th-cenutry American Wagnerian opera star Lillian Nordica comes to life through artifacts, jewelry, musical scores, costumes, and props displayed in her birthplace.
120 Nordica Ln. 207-778-2042; lilliannordica.com
HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT – HISTORIC PERFORMING-ARTS HALL
DEERTREES THEATRE & CULTURAL CENTER, Harrison (1936)
Stars ranging from Rudy Vallee to Henry Winkler have performed at this 1936 theatre, built of rose hemlock and renowned for its acoustics. Concerts, plays, and arts events keep it humming.
156 Deertrees Rd. 207-583-6747; deertrees-theatre.org
HARBOR PADDLE
CURTIS ISLAND LIGHT, Camden
Experience beautiful Camden Harbor from a new perspective as you paddle your kayak or canoe among schooners and yachts on your way out toward Curtis Island. The island’s iconic lighthouse and red-roofed keeper’s house aren’t open to the public, but the grounds are a town park with walking trails. On the return trip, take in an unforgettable view of the Camden Hills. Guided group paddling tours are also available.
breakwaterkayak.com; mainesport.com
BEACH
OLD ORCHARD BEACH
The hub of the seven-mile-long white-sand strand stretching from Saco’s Camp Ellis to Scarborough’s Pine Point is Old Orchard, where Rose Fitzgerald met Joe Kennedy more than a century ago. Escape the Pier and amusement-park scene at nearby Ferry Beach State Park or in Ocean Park, established as a religious summer community in 1881 and still the site of Chautauqua-type public programs.
oldorchardbeachmaine.com
ICONIC STATE ATTRACTION
PORTLAND HEAD LIGHT, Cape Elizabeth
Portland Head Light, at Fort Williams, has illuminated Cape Elizabeth’s rock-girdled shores since commissioned by George Washington and first illuminated in 1791. Inside the restored keeper’s house are lighthouse memorabilia and displays highlighting local history. Pair it with another icon: a lobster roll from the Bite Into Maine food truck.
1000 Shore Rd. 207-799-2661; portlandheadlight.com
CRAFR COOP
PEMAQUID CRAFT CO-OP, New Harbor
Mosey through 15 rooms over two floors filled with works created by more than 50 juried Maine artists and artisans. Inside are pottery, quilts, specialty foods, carved birds, kitchen textiles, glass and leather works, furniture, jewelry, baskets, children’s clothing and toys, lamps, and more.
2565 Bristol Rd. 207-677-2077; pemaquidcraftcoop.com
SMALL MUSEUM
MONHEGAN MUSEUM OF ART & HISTORY, Monhegan Island
It takes a bit of effort to hoof up to Monhegan’s hilltop lighthouse, but it’s well worth it for the historical displays interspersed with original artworks by masters such as Andrew Wyeth, James Fitzgerald, George Bellows, Robert Henri, Edward Hopper, Alice Stoddard, and Rockwell Kent, plus art exhibits in the keeper’s and assistant keeper’s houses, as well as the panoramic views.
1 Lighthouse Hill. 207-596-7003; monheganmuseum.org
FORT
FORT KNOX & PENOBSCOT NARROWS BRIDGE & OBSERVATORY, Prospect
Not only does this sprawling granite harbor-front fort have two complete Rodman cannons, but it’s also home to a glass-walled observatory tower delivering clear-weather views from Katahdin to Cadillac.
Route 174. 207-469-6553; fortknox.maineguide.com
MUSEUM EVENT
OWLS HEAD TRANSPORTATION MUSEUM, Owls Head
During summer events, pilots in antique planes perform airborne aerobatics; classic and vintage vehicles are displayed and demonstrated; and free Model T rides are offered at this museum, where nearly every aircraft, vehicle, bicycle, and engine works. Even on nonevent days, thanks to its location on an airfield, it’s possible to see a Stanley Steamer motoring the grounds while a 1917 Curtiss Jenny biplane soars overhead.
117 Museum St. 207-594-4418; ohtm.org
TOURIST HOT SPOT
ACADIA NATIONAL PARK
Even though Acadia, which recently celebrated its 100th anniversary, is one of America’s most popular national parks, it’s easy to find a private patch of heaven for hiking, biking, paddling, or simply enjoying the mountain-and-ocean views. Hike or pedal the 5.3-mile Amphitheatre Loop, which passes over two of the 17 unique rough-stone bridges in the 57-mile carriage-trail system.
207-288-3338; nps.gov/acad
EXPERIENTIAL ART TOUR
MAINE ART MUSEUM TRAIL, Statewide
From Ogunquit to Bangor and out to Monhegan Island, weave a tour through eight cultural institutions mapped on the 200-mile Maine Art Museum Trail. Comprising more than 73,000 works of art, collections range from ancient to contemporary and include European, American, and Maine masters.
maineartmuseums.org
Best Tourist Hot Spot | Acadia National Park
Credit: Greg Hartford
Best Tourist Hot Spot | Acadia National Park Credit: Greg Hartford
LAKESIDE STATE PARK
PEAKS–KENNY STATE PARK, Dover–Foxcroft
Begin with serene views across Sebec Lake to Borestone Mountain; now add a mile of shorefront with a lifeguard-patrolled sandy beach, a grassy picnic area, 56 campsites, and a 10-mile trail network.
401 State Park Rd. 207-564-2003; maine.gov/peaks-kenny
FAMILY SWIMMING HOLE
STEP FALLS, Newry
The Step Falls trail rises a half-mile along Wright Brook and rewards hikers with waterfalls, swimming holes, natural waterslides, flat rocks for picnicking, and nice views of the Mahoosuc mountain range. Find it off Route 26, a half-mile south of Grafton Notch State Park.
mahoosuc.org; mainetrailfinder.com
GALLERY
HARVEST GOLD GALLERY, Center Lovell
Hard to say which is more stunning: the views over mountain-backed Kezar Lake outside the gallery or the works displayed within, which include gold jewelry accented with Maine gemstones, among the fine crafts by a variety of artisans.
1082 South Main St. 207-925-6502; harvestgoldgallery.com
EASY ISLAND BIKE EXCURSION
PEAKS ISLAND
On Peaks Island, only a 20-minute ferry ride from Portland, it’s easy to dream of seaside cottages, endless blue seas, and crisp breezes. You can bike the circumference of this 1-by-2-mile knob of land in 40 minutes. But there’s no need to rush—beaches here are plentiful and accessible. Bring your own bike on the Casco Bay Lines ferry (home port: 56 Commercial St., Portland). Or, used (and inexpensive) bikes can be found just off the dock at Brad’s Bike Rental.
peaksislandmaine.net. Ferry, 207-774-7871; cascobaylines.com. Brad’s, 115 Island Ave. 207-766-5631
RETRO BEACH HANGOUT
FUN-O-RAMA, York Beach
A stone’s throw from York’s Short Sands Beach is the Fun-O-Rama arcade. The building was once a 1940s bathhouse before converting to an arcade. Today it packs more than 250 rides and arcade games (including Skee-Ball) into its 10,000 square feet. There’s something endearingly boardwalk-retro about it—it makes you want to stroll through even if video games and old-fashioned photo booths aren’t your thing.
7 Beach St. 207-363-4421; funorama.us
USED-BOOK STORE
MERRILL’S BOOKSHOP, Hallowell
Upstairs at Merrill’s, John Merrill has been barricaded behind towering walls of used books for 25 years. It’s easy to pass several hours here, fingers rustling the pages of a Hardy Boys installment or a first-edition East of Eden. “I’m going to be the last old-fashioned bookstore,” Merrill declares. “No selling books on the Internet. I refuse. It takes all the fun out of it.”
134 Water St. 207-623-2055; merrillsbookshop.com
ADVENTURE
KENNEBEC RIVER RAFTING, The Forks
Take a whitewater roller-coaster ride delivering guaranteed big thrills—without cold-water chills. The dam-controlled Kennebec drains from a shallow lake and flows through a steep-walled gorge in Maine’s timber country. Northern Outdoors founder Wayne Hockmeyer pioneered the route, which includes Big Mama and the Three Sisters as well as dropping over Magic Falls.
1771 Route 201. 800-765-7238, 207-663-4466; northernoutdoors.com
MOOSE-SPOTTING TOUR
NORTHWOODS OUTFITTERS, Greenville
The Moosehead Lake region supports some of the country’s densest moose populations, and Northwoods is so confident of finding the gangly critters that it offers a money-back guarantee. Choose from water or land tours.
5 Lily Bay Rd. 866-223-1380; maineoutfitter.com
Best Moose-spotting Tour | Northwoods Outfitters
Best Lodging in Maine
Looking to rest your head in the Pine Tree State? We’ve got you covered! Check out our picks for the best lodging in Maine.
BOUTIQUE HOTEL
WHITEHALL, Camden
Though the core of Whitehall may be an 1834 sea captain’s home, the building has progressively accreted rooms since becoming an inn in 1901. Reimagined in 2015 as a chic coastal getaway, the 36-room hotel and its rambling porches sprawl across green lawns between the rounded peak of Mount Battie and the lapping blue waters of Penobscot Bay. Touches like aged barn board and grass-cloth wall coverings produce a breezy contemporary decor that still echoes the leisurely rusticators of a century past.
207-236-3391; whitehallmaine.com
FAMILY LODGING
THE LODGE ON THE COVE, Kennebunkport
Both retro-cool and budget-friendly, this 21st-century makeover of a motor lodge is colorful and upbeat, with a mix of vintage and contemporary furnishings in 30 guest rooms spread throughout four buildings. The centerpiece of the resort is the main lodge, which has a big lounge on the upper level and a restaurant below that opens out onto the pool. Keeping little ones entertained is a cinch, with complimentary use of beach cruisers and kids’ bikes, lawn games, shuffle puck and Ping-Pong tables, and Saturday-night movies. Plus, the shops and attractions of Dock Square are just a 15-minute stroll away.
800-879-5778; lodgeonthecove.com
HISTORIC HOTEL
CLAREMONT HOTEL, Southwest Harbor
The fjord of Somes Sound cleaves Mount Desert Island in two. The 24-room Claremont sits on the take-a-deep-breath-and-exhale western lobe, removed from the bustle of Bar Harbor and the main attractions of Acadia National Park. Since 1884, it has welcomed guests to its six-acre spread at the mouth of Somes Sound with views across to Greening Island. Six modern inn-style rooms and 14 cottages are other options, but stretching out on a sleigh bed in the main inn, with the breeze ruffling the window sheers, feels like visiting the home of the Down East grandma you wish you had.
800-244-5036; theclaremonthotel.com
LAKESIDE LODGING
THE RANGELEY INN, Rangeley
A perfect example of Maine’s “serial architecture,” the multiwinged Rangeley Inn was built in pieces in the early 20th century to offer hospitality to the sporting crowd that came by rail. The trains no longer run, but the mountainous woodlands and lakes of western Maine remain as alluring as ever. Well-stocked Haley Pond—just outside the inn’s back door—is a fine spot to practice angling or paddle around for an hour in a loaner kayak. Want to explore the Rangeley Lake itself? Inn staffers are happy to point you to a neighboring cruise company offering scenic outings on one-of-a-kind restored wooden boats.
207-864-3341; therangeleyinn.com
LUXURY ESCAPE
CLIFF HOUSE, Cape Neddick
Set high atop a cliff of black volcanic boulders between York and the sandy beaches of Ogunquit, Cliff House has enjoyed an osprey’s view of the ocean since opening in 1872. Recent renovations went beyond mere restoration to create a sleek contemporary hotel with every imaginable creature comfort and an ambitious spa for beauty and wellness treatments. All 226 rooms and suites come with private terraces and those same incomparable views that have been the resort’s calling card since Ulysses S. Grant was president.
207-361-1000; cliffhousemaine.com
NEW LODGING
SANDY PINES CAMPGROUND,Kennebunkport
For those looking to rough it like a raja in the Maine woods, Sandy Pines’ 12 luxurious glamping tents offer designer decor in 18-by-24-foot canvas “rooms.” Each has its own meditation garden and king-size bed, some have adjacent tepees for the kids, and all share a communal fire pit for making nighttime memories (and s’mores). More traditional overnight setups are available, too: The majority of the 300-plus wooded sites here allow for RV camping, with 100 nice tenting spots as well. Bordering the Rachel Carson Wildlife Refuge, Sandy Pines’ 60 acres ensures everyone has room to spread out.
207-967-2483; sandypinescamping.com
OCEANSIDE LODGING
SPRUCE POINT INN, Boothbay Harbor
Diffuse ocean light surrounds this 1892 inn and cabin community at the southern end of the thumb-shaped peninsula separating Boothbay Harbor from Linekin Bay. Seven inn rooms feature private decks where you can sprawl in Adirondack chairs to watch sails billow on the bay below. Other options include oversize rooms in modern lodges and woodsy housekeeping cottages, many with multiple bedrooms for family getaways. The village is a 1½-mile bike ride away … assuming you can tear yourself away from the view.
207-633-4152; sprucepointinn.com
ROOMS WITH A VIEW
THE EAST WIND INN, Tenants Harbor
A prime waterfront location on the St. George peninsula south of Thomaston guarantees that all 19 rooms at the East Wind Inn have views of the lobster boats anchored in the harbor and the islands offshore. Guests can choose between two adjacent buildings: a 19th-century former sail loft or an erstwhile sea captain’s mansion. The rooms are simply furnished with finds from local antiques dealers, striking precisely the right note for this unpretentious working stretch of the Maine coast.
207-372-6366; eastwindinn.com
WILDERNESS RETREAT
LITTLE LYFORD LODGE & CABINS, Greenville
So far off the grid that you have to ski in during the winter, Little Lyford is a complex of nine log cabins, a bunkhouse, and a main lodge in the middle of a 66,000-acre forest owned by the Appalachian Mountain Club. The AMC also operates the restored 1874 camp. It’s definitely rustic: propane lights, woodstove, cold running water. BYO sheets or sleeping bag, but canoes and kayaks are provided—as are three squares a day. Reserve fishing gear ahead, as you’re one landlocked salmon away from nirvana.
207-280-0708; outdoors.org
WALK-TO-EVERYTHING LOCATION
2 VILLAGE SQUARE, Ogunquit
Walk to shops, galleries, restaurants, the beach, and the Marginal Way, if you can tear away from the heated pool, hot tub, or rolling ocean views.
14 Village Square Ln. 207-646-5779; 2vsquare.com
SEA CAPTAIN’S MANSION
CAPTAIN LORD MANSION, Kennebunkport
This grand, Federal-style inn immerses guests in a 200-year-old, sumptuously decorated sea captain’s mansion but pampers them with 21st century amenities, including complimentary WiFi, iPhone docks, and in-house spa services.
6 Pleasant St. 207-967-3141; captainlord.com
WATER VIEWS
TOPSIDE INN, Boothbay Harbor
The aptly named Topside caps an in-town hill with sigh-producing views over the inner and outer harbors. Rooms in the three buildings are bright and airy with contemporary nautical décor.
60 McKown St. 207-633-5404; topsideinn.com
CLASSIC ISLAND INN
CHEBEAGUE ISLAND LIGHT, Chebeague Island
Much of the charm of this 1920s establishment is that it’s a part of island life. Monday-night dinners become a regular event for summer island residents, who sit on the famous porch and take in the sunsets, some of the finest in New England.
61 South Rd. 207-846-5155; chebeagueislandinn.com
Chebeague Island Inn’s famously long porch, evening home to some of the finest sunset views in New England.
Credit: Courtesy of Chebeague Island Inn
Chebeague Island Inn’s famously long porch, evening home to some of the finest sunset views in New England. Credit: Courtesy of Chebeague Island Inn
ANYTIME PIE
BERRY MANOR INN, Rockland
Not only do guests enjoy an expansive breakfast, but they also have access to pantries stocked with Maine-made Gifford’s ice cream and the inn’s renowned homemade pies, such as to-die-for blueberry, mixed berry, and apple.
81 Talbot Ave. 207-596-7696; berrymanorinn.com
IN-TOWN COUNTRY INN
HARTSTONE INN, Camden
Choose from rooms, all decorated with French country flair, in the main mansard-roofed inn, the Manor House (tucked behind), or The Hideaway about a block away. Even better: Downtown Camden is just footsteps away. Be sure to make reservations for dinner.
41 Elm St. (U.S. Route 1). 207-236-4259; hartstoneinn.com
HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT – CLASSIC MAINE INN
PENTAGÖET INN, Castine (1894)
Step back in time in Castine, a serene coastal Maine town with a turbulent history. With lacy curtains, floral wallpapers, and period antiques, the Queen Anne–style Pentagöet complements its historic downtown setting while pampering guests with contemporary amenities (organic mattresses and free WiFi, to name a few) and an excellent dining room.
26 Main St. 207-326-8616; pentagoet.com
HOMESTEADING HOSTEL
DEER ISLE HOSTEL, Deer Isle
Communal dinners are drawn from the organic gardens in front of this rustic, off-the-grid, hand-built hostel designed to replicate a 17th century timber-frame home.
65 Tennis Rd. 207-348-2308; deerislehostel.com
RIVERSIDE RETREAT
THE OLD SACO INN, Fryeburg
Peace and tranquility are yours on this 65-acre riverfront property, with trails meandering through woods and across fields, and canoes and kayaks available for paddling. Add comfy rooms, hearty breakfasts, and a cozy pub, and you may never leave.
125 Old Saco Ln. 207-925-3737; oldsacoinn.com
BEACHSIDE INN
INN BY THE SEA, Cape Elizabeth
Handsome rooms, suites, and cottages shelter guests at this seaside resort with an outdoor saltwater pool, a restaurant and lounge with indoor and outdoor seating, and a boutique spa. A boardwalk through a New England cottontail rabbit preserve links the ultra-green, dog- and family-friendly property with dune-backed Crescent Beach, a state park with lifeguards.
40 Bowery Beach Rd. 207-799-3134; innbythesea.com
LIGHTHOUSE STAY
INN AT CUCKOLDS LIGHTHOUSE, Cuckolds Island
Splurge on one of two ultra-luxe suites in a meticulously restored 1892 lighthouse complex on a private island. The pampering includes transportation, breakfast, and afternoon tea; lunch and dinner are available.
855-212-5252; innatcuckoldslighthouse.com
Best Beachside Inn | Inn by the Sea, Cape Elizabeth
Credit: Courtesy of Inn by the Sea
Best Beachside Inn | Inn by the Sea, Cape Elizabeth Credit: Courtesy of Inn by the Sea
OCEAN RESORT
SAMOSET, Rockport
If you can tear yourself away from the dreamy views, facilities at this 230-acre oceanfront resort edging Penobscot Bay include an 18-hole golf course, indoor and outdoor pools, a spa, a fitness center, a children’s program, tennis courts, lawn games, and easy access to the Rockland Breakwater.
220 Warrenton St. 207-594-2511; samosetresort.com
PET-FRIENDLY B&B
THE CAPTAIN JEFFERDS INN, Kennebunkport
The 11 elegant rooms in the 1804 main house are fur-free, but five equally inviting rooms in the attached Carriage House welcome dogs with bowls, towels, and a treat. Each room has direct access to the yard, and pet sitting is available.
5 Pearl St. 207-967-2311; captainjefferdsinn.com
FAMILY VACATION
MEDOMAK FAMILY CAMP, Washington
Think summer camp is only for kids? Swim, play, create, paddle, hike, tour, or do nothing during family sessions at this traditional lakeside summer camp on Washington Pond. Family-style meals and a rustic, few-frills private cabin are included; the counselors make it sing.
178 Liberty Rd. 207-845-6001; medomakcamp.com
LAKESIDE RESORT
MIGIS LODGE, Casco
Set under towering pines on the shores of Sebago Lake, this 100-year-old resort turns the lakeside family vacation into a luxury experience, pampering guests with wood-burning fireplaces, stocked daily, and fancy linens in 35 well-appointed cottages and a main lodge. Choose from paddling, sailing, tennis, kids’ programs, and a slew of family-friendly activities, from island cookouts to waterskiing sessions. Meals and most activities are included.
30 Migis Lodge Rd. 207-655-4524; migis.com
WILDERNESS CAMPING
STEPHEN PHILLIPS MEMORIAL PRESERVE, Rangeley
Swim, paddle, watch wildlife, or simply escape at this 6,000-acre preserve, including more than four miles of shoreline on Mooselookmeguntic Lake. Choose from mainland and island sites, all with picnic tables, fireplaces, and toilet facilities.
377 Stephens Rd. 207-864-2003; stephenphillipswildernesscamping.com
ISLAND SPORTING CAMP
ATTEAN LAKE LODGE, Jackman
Attean has been welcoming guests to Birch Island, an oasis of hospitality in the wilderness, since the late 19th century. Guests stay in comfy cabins, enjoy meals in the main lodge, and spend their days swimming, paddling, hiking, and fishing.
Birch Island. 207-668-3792; atteanlodge.com
Best Dining in Maine
Hungry? The Pine Tree State offers plenty of restaurant options for hungry residents and visitors alike. Here are our picks for the best food & dining in Maine.
BEST FARM-TO-TABLE FINE DINING
BREWPUB
THE LIBERAL CUP PUBLIC HOUSE & BREWERY, Hallowell
Brewer Geoff Houghton wants customers to linger in his Hallowell incarnation of a classic English country pub, so he makes a generous pour. The seven-barrel brewery produces a rotating list of English-style sips, mostly session ales and bitters, served in 20-ounce Imperial pint glasses (hence the name of the establishment). The kitchen dishes out innovative pub grub most of the time but offers fancier gastropub specials on weekend nights, sometimes using mushrooms foraged by the chef himself.
207-623-2739; theliberalcup.com
CHOWDER
ERICA’S SEAFOOD, Harpswell
A good chowder should have far more fish than liquid, and the liquid should be creamy without added thickener. Andrea Hunter is the cook at Erica’s (named for her daughter), and she always packs the seafood chowder with lobster, shrimp, haddock, and clams. Sometimes she also adds scallops and sweet threads of crab meat. The cash-only takeout shack has the usual lobster and crab rolls, but a bowl of chowder will leave you perfectly full. BYOB.
207-833-7354; ericasseafood.com
FARM-TO-TABLE
THE FIDDLEHEAD RESTAURANT, Bangor
From spring’s first asparagus to autumn’s bounty of pumpkins and squashes, it helps to have your own farm if you run a restaurant serving farm-to-fork cuisine. Late each winter, chef Mel Chaiken and her partner’s husband, Aaron Peppard, who oversees the greenhouses and gardens, choose the seeds with which to plant the summer menu. Meats, seafood, and cheeses come largely from Maine farms, fishermen, and cheese makers. Raised in Japan by a Malaysian mother and an American father, Chaiken brings some innovative Asian treatments to otherwise recognizably New England food.
207-942-3336; thefiddleheadrestaurant.com
HOT DOGS
SIMONES’, Lewsiton
Loyalists here are split between ordering their hot dogs grilled or steamed, but in either case they’ll get a classic Maine red snapper—a beef and pork frank in a natural casing that “snaps” when bitten. (The startlingly bright hue is harmless food coloring.) The family business launched in 1908 on the other side of Chestnut Street but moved into its current quarters in 1966. With the next generation already in the kitchen, Simones’ could be here for another 110 years. Steamed dogs are a dollar on Wednesday.
207-782-8431; simoneshotdogstand.com
SUSHI
SUZUKI’S SUSHI BAR, Rockland
Keiko Suzuki Steinberger certainly changed local attitudes about raw fish when she opened this Japanese restaurant in downtown Rockland. The seafood that’s used in sushi and sashimi creations is as seasonal as any other harvest, and Suzuki eagerly awaits the herring and mackerel runs, the brief window in which to catch tiny northern shrimp (ama edi), and the late-summer run of bluefin tuna (toro). She’s on a mission now to get more Mainers to eat uni, the roe of the ubiquitous sea urchin. The day’s local catch is posted in the sushi bar’s front window.
207-596-7447; suzukisushi.com
FARM-TO-TABLE FINE DINING
JOSHUA’S, Wells
Soft lighting, fine art, and tablecloths in a meticulously restored 1774 house are the background for Chef Joshua Mather’s made-from-scratch fare, with much of the produce grown on his family’s nearby organic farm. Don’t skip his signature dish: pan-roasted Atlantic haddock with caramelized onion crust, paired with wild mushroom risotto and chive oil.
1637 Post Rd (Route 1). 207-646-3355; joshuas.biz
Like the food at Joshua’s Restaurant, all drinks are made from scratch using only fresh, seasonal ingredients.
Credit: Courtesy of Joshua’s Restaurant
Like the food at Joshua’s Restaurant, all drinks are made from scratch using only fresh, seasonal ingredients. Credit: Courtesy of Joshua's Restaurant
WATERFRONT DINING
NINA JUNE, Rockport
Rockport has the prettiest slot harbor on Maine’s coast, and Sara Jenkins’s Mediterranean restaurant occupies the prime perch overlooking it, at the corner of Central and Main in the old red-brick Union Hall. Angle for a table on the back porch for views of the lobster boats, sloops, and schooners while you enjoy great risottos and pastas or Italian or French treatments of Gulf of Maine fish. During the height of summer and fall, Jenkins marvels that her only nonlocal produce ingredients are lemons, limes, and oranges.
207-236-8880; ninajunerestaurant.com
LOCAVORE RESTAURANT
VINLAND, Portland
Local. Organic. Maine. That sums up chef/owner David Levi’s philosophy at Vinland, where indigenous food traditions are celebrated and all ingredients are from Maine. The small-plates menu might include Portland strip steak with whey-poached parsnip, wild porcini mushroom, and parsley gremolata, or lobster with wild black-trumpet mushroom emulsion, nori, and radish.
593 Congress St. 207-653-8617; vinland.me
CHINESE FOOD CART
LI’S CHINESE EXPRESS, Freeport
China-born Li Jin whips up wok dishes, such as noodles, lo mein, and fried rice, and serves crab Rangoon and spring rolls from her food cart, parked on Bow Street about a block from L.L. Bean’s mothership.
Bow St. 207-865-9299
ASIAN FUSION
LONG GRAIN, Camden
Do make reservations to score one of the few seats at this storefront restaurant where Bangkok- born Ravin Nakjaroen creates flavor-rich homestyle pan-Asian fare. Knockouts include mussels in spicy coconut–lemongrass broth, Maine crab-fried rice, and the house-made noodles with kimchi and pork belly. Don’t miss the coconut flan.
31 Elm St. 207-236-9001; longgraincamden.com
PIZZA AL FRESCO
SEAL COVE FARM, Lamoine
On a fine day, mosey over to Seal Cove, a goat farm best known for its artisanal cheeses, for a handcrafted pizza made from fresh ingredients and baked in an outdoor wood-burning oven. Afterwards, browse the fresh and aged chèvres, goat’s-milk feta, and mixed cow- and goat’s milk cheeses in the pint-size shop; cap off your meal with a goat’s-milk gelato.
202 Partridge Cove Rd (Route 204). 207-667-7127; mainegoatcheese.com
MEXICAN TAKEOUT
VAZQUEZ MEXICAN, Milbridge
Authentic Mexican in Down East Maine? Ayuh. Expect scratch-made tortillas along with generous tacos, gorditas, tostadas, guaraches, burritos, tamales, and other traditional dishes.
38 Main St. 207-546-2219
LAKESIDE SNACK SHACK
BRESCA & THE HONEY BEE AT OUTLET BEACH, New Gloucester
Renowned chef Krista Kerns Desjarlais closed her Portland restaurant and now owns this food shack on Sabbathday Lake, serving fresh and local foods ranging from hot dogs to wood grilled lamb kielbasa.
106 Outlet Rd. 207-926-3388; brescaandthehoneybee.com
FINE DINING IN THE WESTERN MOUNTAINS
COPLIN DINNER HOUSE, Stratton
Savor light fare, such as fish tacos or burgers, or heftier entrées, like rack of lamb or char-grilled hanger steak, in a beautifully restored farmhouse. Don’t miss the blueberry pie with cinnamon ice cream.
8252 Carrabassett Rd (Route 27). 207-246-0016; coplindinnerhouse.com
FARM-STORE RESTAURANT
MISTY MEADOWS ORGANIC FARM, Grand Isle
Comfort foods, including traditional Acadian dishes, are prepared from farm-fresh, organic ingredients and served in a rustic, family friendly combo café/farm store.
1164 Main St. (U.S. Route 1). 207-316-6959; dionnefarms.com
Lobster-Roll Experience
QUODDY BAY LOBSTER, Eastport
Lobster doesn’t get any fresher than that served at this family-owned fish store and lobster shack sited on a working pier. Chopped claw, tail, and knuckle meat is tossed with a hint of mayo (Miracle Whip, if you prefer) or drizzled with butter, mounded in a toasted and buttered split-top roll, and gilded with a meaty claw. The views over Passamaquoddy Bay to Campobello Island seal the deal. Choose from junior, regular, or jumbo size.
7 Sea St. 207-853-6640
Best Lobster Roll Experience | Quoddy Bay Lobster, Eastport
Best Lobster Roll Experience | Quoddy Bay Lobster, Eastport Credit: Tribune Content Agency LLC/Alamy Stock Photo
DINNER & A SHOW
JONATHAN’S, Ogunquit
Packages make it easy to enjoy a fine-dining farm-to-table menu downstairs, and chase it with a show in the intimate upstairs venue, where touring acts such as Dar Williams, George Winston, Madeleine Peyroux, and Paula Poundstone perform.
92 Bourne Lane. 207-646-4777; jonathansogunquit.com
QUICK LUNCH
WILD OATS, Brunswick
At least four scratch-made soups, specials, made-to-order sandwiches on house-made bread, and fresh salads are available at Wild Oats, a self-serve bakery and café with plentiful seating. Located in the Tontine Mall.
149 Maine St. 207-725-6287; wildoatsbakery.com
FRIED FISH
BET’S FAMOUS FISH FRY, Boothbay
Free Beer Tomorrow teases the sign in front of Bet’s, a roadside take-out fish shack famed for its generous portions of always-crisp, never-greasy fish-and-chips made with local haddock caught by Bet’s brother, battered with breadcrumbs, and paired with hand-cut fries. Don’t skip the homemade dill sauce. Hint: A half order is often enough for two people. Cash only.
20 Route 27 at Common Drive
FARM STORE
BETH’S FARM MARKET, Warren
Not only does Beth’s have freshly picked produce, but you’ll also find pickled vegetables, relishes, oysters, lobster, and an in-house bakery making breads, pies, and seasonal favorites, such as strawberry shortcake.
1986 Western Rd. 207-273-3695; bethsfarmmarket.com
NEAPOLITAN PIZZA
MEANWHILE IN BELFAST, Belfast
Certified Neapolitan master pizza chef Alessandro Scelsi, a native of Turino, Italy, handcrafts crisp sourdough-crust pizzas, baking them for only a minute or so in his wood-fired oven. Try the “Côte D’Azur,” with fresh mozzarella, goat cheese, prosciutto di Parma, and sun-dried figs—or keep it simple with the “Visionary,” a classic Margherita that never tasted so good.
2 Cross St. 207-218-1288; meanwhile-in-belfast.com
SWEET SHOP
BLACK DINAH TASTING ROOM, Blue Hill
An original soda-fountain counter is now an espresso bar offering locally roasted 44 North coffees as well as Black Dinah’s signature chocolate drinks, ice cream, and truffles in a space shared with Fairwinds Florist.
5 Main St. 207-374-2228; blackdinahchocolatiers.com
FEEL-GOOD BREAKFAST
THE COMMON GOOD COMMUNITY, Southwest Harbor
Hot popovers, flavored butters, homemade jams, and slow-simmered oatmeal are offered every morning, along with occasional live entertainment, at the Community Kitchen. Proceeds from the donate-what-you-can, all-you-can-eat, buffet-style spread help local families.
19 Clark Point Rd. 207-266-2733; commongoodsoupkitchen.org
ACADIAN FARE
DOLLY’S, Frenchville
Ask anyone in the St. John Valley where to taste traditional Acadian fare, and aside from a family home, the answer is Dolly’s, which earns accolades for its ployes, cretons, and chicken stew.
17 U.S. Route 1. 207-728-7050
ACADIAN TRADITION
JORDAN POND HOUSE, Acadia National Park
The view of Jordan Pond and across it to the two “Bubbles” mountains is reason enough to stop by this iconic restaurant—but the popovers with strawberry jam are legendary. After hiking one of Acadia’s peaks or biking the carriage trails, reward yourself with tea and these classic egg-batter rolls. Go ahead—slather on the jam, and while you’re at it, splurge on some ice cream, too. Heaven! Sandwiches, salads, soups, and full entrées are also offered, for both lunch and dinner.
Off Park Loop Rd. 207-276-3316; acadiajordanpondhouse.com
RESTAURANT FOR PICKY EATERS
CAFÉ MIRANDA , Rockland
Pizza? Check. Burgers and dogs? Yes. Gluten-free options and vegetarian choices? Yup. Pasta? Of course. Seafood? Ayuh. Meat and poultry? You betcha. Soups and salads? Uh-huh. French, Mexican, Asian, Indian, Greek, Italian, Polish, and other internationally inspired dishes? Oui. With small plates, large plates, and everything in between, Café Miranda’s humongous menu has something to satisfy everyone.
15 Oak St. 207-594-2034; cafemiranda.com
Tea and Popovers at Jordan Pond House
SPORTING-CAMP RESTAURANT
BALD MOUNTAIN CAMPS, Oquossoc
Most sporting camps serve home-style comfort food, but not so Bald Mountain. Although the dining room’s lakefront setting and pine-and-antler décor are traditional, locally revered chef Brian Anderson’s menu elevates the experience, with entrées such as Moroccan roast rack of lamb, pan-seared duck breast, and Caribbean fish tacos. Big windows in the main-lodge dining room frame sigh-worthy sunset views over Mooselookmeguntic Lake.
125 Bald Mountain Rd. 207-864-3671; baldmountaincamps.com
24/7 FOOD
DYSART’S, Hermon
Sure, it’s a truck stop, but where else can you get huge portions of fresh-made food around the clock—never mind breakfast at 11:00 p.m.? You’ll find all the classics—eggs, sausage, pancakes, French toast, waffles, more than a dozen varieties of omelets—plus signature dishes such as the “Kitchen Sink” omelet (you can guess), the “Truckers’ Special,” and sirloin steak. And Dysart’s even has an in-house bakery, turning out homemade pies, pastries, biscuits, and desserts.
530 Coldbrook Rd. 207-942-4878; dysarts.com
COLLEGE-TOWN EATS
BOWDOIN COLLEGE, Brunswick
Locals and Bowdoin parents have long known that there’s no better food for the price than what you’ll find at the college’s Thorne Hall and Moulton Hall dining rooms, open to the public, and consistently rated among the top five in the nation. You’ll enjoy exceptional food, and your dining companions will be among the best and the brightest of their generation.
bowdoin.edu/dining/when-where/index.shtml
Best Bargains in Maine
Pinching pennies never felt so good! Check out our picks for the best bargains in Maine.
PORTLAND ART IMMERSION
FIRST FRIDAY ART WALK, Portland
On the first Friday of every month, Portland’s art community opens its doors, with gallery and museum events, street performances, and more. Free.
artwalkmaine.org
TWOFER LOBSTER ROLLS
TRACEY’S SEAFOOD, Sullivan
Tracey’s serves big portions of ultra-fresh lobster, chowders, and fried seafood at low prices: Think two-for-one lobster rolls, plus weekend fish fries and clam fries with free second. Don’t miss the homemade pies.
2717 U.S. Route 1. 207-422-9072
FAMILY ART & MUSIC FESTIVAL
GRAND LAKE STREAM FOLK ART FESTIVAL, Grand Lake Stream
Two days of great music and folk art, plus a quilt show, kids’ activities, and canoe and cultural exhibits.Always the last full weekend of July; at the baseball field.
Water St. 207-796-8199; grandlakestreamfolkartfestival.com
THROWBACK BURGER JOINT
BURGER BOY, Caribou
Retro Burger Boy has been serving fresh ground burgers, fried chicken and seafood, house-made fries, ice cream, and delicious shakes since 1968. Eat in the jukebox-themed dining room or opt for the drive-through.
234 Sweden St. 207-498-2329.
HISTORY MUSEUM
MAINE STATE MUSEUM, Augusta
Four floors of engaging permanent and temporary exhibits detailing Maine’s history, heritage, and environment. Displays in the Back to Nature exhibit range from commemorating the extinction of the passenger pigeon to tourmaline mining.
230 State St. 207-287-2301; mainestatemuseum.org
Best Classic Attractions in Maine
There’s a lot to see in do in the Pine Tree State, but some activities really stand the test of time. Read our picks for the best classic attractions in Maine.
HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT – SUMMER STOCK
OQUNQUIT PLAYHOUSE, Ogunquit (1933)
Catch a musical in the 675-seat Ogunquit Playhouse, operating every summer since 1933. Over the years, stars such as Sally Struthers, Lorenzo Lamas, and Rue McClanahan have performed here in productions including The King and I, The Full Monty, and Crazy for You. In addition to Broadway hits, the Playhouse stages regional premieres as well, including Billy Elliot and The Addams Family. Get the inside scoop on a backstage tour.
10 Main St. (U.S. Route 1). 207-646-5511; ogunquitplayhouse.org
Best Summer Stock | Oqungquit Playhouse
Credit: Courtesy of Ogunquit Playhouse
Best Summer Stock | Oqungquit Playhouse Credit: Courtesy of Ogunquit Playhouse
HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT – ART & ARCHITECTURE
PORTLAND MUSEUM OF ART, Portland (1911)
Explore three centuries of works, including a top-flight collection of paintings by American Realist and Impressionist masters (Rockwell Kent, Andrew Wyeth, and Marsden Hartley, to name a few) and fine and decorative arts.
7 Congress Sq. 207-775-6148; portlandmuseum.org
SEAFOOD SHACK
MCLOON’S LOBSTER, South Thomaston
It’s a little extra work to find McLoon’s, hidden on causeway-connected Spruce Head Island, but it’s worth it for the ultra-fresh lobster paired with breathtaking views over a working wharf and spruce-fringed islands. Don’t like lobster? Enjoy crab cakes, burgers, hot dogs, and homemade sandwiches.
315 Island Rd. 207-593-1382; mcloonslobster.com
Best Hidden Lobster Shack | McLoon’s Lobster
Credit: Carl Tremblay
Best Hidden Lobster Shack | McLoon’s Lobster Credit: Carl Tremblay
RESORT HISTORY LESSON
POLAND SPRING RESORT & PRESERVATION PARK, Poland
Get an up-close look at the history of Poland Spring, learning about the water, the grand resort, the celebrities who frequented it, and the Ricker family, while touring historic buildings and sites. Donations requested.
640 Maine St. 207-998-4351; polandspringinns.com
Best Outdoor Attractions in Maine
The Pine Tree State has plenty to offer in the Great Outdoors. Read our picks for the best outdoor attractions in Maine.
COASTAL FARM
WELLS RESERVE AT LAUDHOLM, Wells
A National Estuarine Research Reserve, based at historic Laudholm Farms, known in the 1920s for its progressive agricultural practices. Hike seven miles of trails winding through 2,250 acres of woods, beach, and coastal salt marsh; explore exhibits at the Maine Coastal Ecology Center and the Laudholm farmhouse; and take part in programs ranging from lectures to nature walks.
342 Laudholm Farm Rd. 207-646-1555; wellsreserve.org
HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT – COASTAL STATE PARK
REID STATE PARK, Georgetown (1946)
Crashing surf, two beautiful sand beaches, a lagoon (10 to 15 degrees warmer than the open ocean), tidepools, hiking trails, sand dunes, and marshlands—Midcoast’s 610-acre Reid State Park, on Georgetown Island, has it all, along with shower rooms, picnic tables, and a snack bar. Don’t miss Griffith Head, a rocky outcrop overlooking the park, and a great vantage point for viewing lighthouses, islands, and sweeping sea vistas. Birdwatchers will note that portions of Reid’s beaches are also nesting areas for least terns and piping plovers, as well as stopover spots and feeding areas for other shorebird species as well.
375 Seguinland Rd. 207-371-2303; maine.gov/dacf/parks/index.shtml
TOWN-OWNED WILDERNESS PARK
MATTAWAMKEAG WILDERNESS PARK, Mattawamkeag
Hike, camp, swim, paddle, mountain-bike, picnic, fish, and play at this 1,000-acre park on the Mattawamkeag River, complete with recreation hall, camp store, hot showers, playground, and laudromat.
1513 Wilderness Park Rd. 207-290-0205; mwpark.com
MOUNTAIN PLAYGROUND
SUNDAY RIVER ADVENTURE PARK, Newry
Play for an hour or all day, choosing from lift-assisted mountain biking, scenic lift rides, zipline tours, twin zips, outdoor climbing wall, disc golf, and a bungee trampoline.
15 South Ridge Rd. 800-543-2754; sundayriver.com
FAMILY HIKE
BALD MOUNTAIN, Oquossoc
Moderate effort is required to reach Bald Mountain’s 2,443-foot summit, capped by an observation tower delivering spectacular 360-degree lake and mountain views. Find the trailhead on Bald Mountain Road, 0.8 mile off Route 4, across from Bald Mountain Camps.
mainetrailfinder.com
Spotlight: Mount Desert Island
Heading to Mount Desert Island? We’ve got the perfect roundup of what to see, do, and eat while you’re there, plus where to stay when it’s time for bed. Read on to see our picks for the best of Mount Desert Island!
BEST ATTRACTIONS ON MOUNT DESERT ISLAND
LOBSTER-BOAT CRUISE
LULU LOBSTER BOAT RIDE, Bar Harbor
Why are shedders a little sweeter? What’s the biggest lobster ever caught in Maine’s cold waters? Captain John Nicolai answers these questions plus a whole lot more. Climb aboard the Lulu, a traditional Down East– style lobster boat, for a humor-filled two hour cruise covering everything you wanted to know about Maine’s tasty crustacean. The seal sightings and breathtaking coastal beauty aren’t bad, either.
55 West St. 207-963-2341; lululobsterboat.com
FAMILY HIKE
SHIP HARBOR NATURE TRAIL, Acadia National Park, Southwest Harbor
Pick up a trail guide at the park visitors’ center and pack a picnic. This gentle 1.2-mile figure-eight hike passes through varied ecosystems, from moss-laden woods to pink granite ledges.
Route 102A. 207-288-3338; nps.gov/acad
HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT – MOUNTAIN BIKING
CARRIAGE ROADS, Acadia National Park (1913)
Pedal into the heart of Acadia National Park on 45 mapped and signposted miles of car-free, crushed-stone carriage roads, punctuated by 17 handsome granite-faced bridges and two gatehouses.
207-288-3338; nps.gov/acad
Best Mountain Biking | Carriage Roads, Acadia National Park
Credit: Jerry and Marcy Monkman
Best Mountain Biking | Carriage Roads, Acadia National Park Credit: Jerry and Marcy Monkman
BEST LODGING ON MOUNT DESERT ISLAND
PARKSIDE B&B
THE BIRCHES, Southwest Harbor
Built as a summer cottage in 1916, the stately Birches combines gentle summer ease with a location that puts the Flying Mountain, Acadia, and St. Sauveur trailheads and Valley Cove fire road within easy walking distance.
46 Fernald Point Road. 207-244-5182; thebirchesbnb.com
BIRD WATCHING
SEAWALL MOTEL, Southwest Harbor
It’s possible to see shore-, freshwater, marsh, and woodland birds, and maybe even an eagle, from guestrooms in this family-owned, budget-friendly motel overlooking the rare freshwater pond/saltwater shore combo.
566 Seawall Rd (Route 102A). 207-244-3020; seawallmotel.com
PET-FRIENDLY LODGING
WONDER VIEW INN, Bar Harbor
Furry guests are welcomed to these motel-style accommodations on estate-like grounds with a bowl, a treat, and recommendations for places to go, things to do, and dog-friendly al fresco restaurants.
50 Eden St. 888-439-8439, 207-288-3358; wonderviewinn.com
BEST DINING ON MOUNT DESERT ISLAND
FINE DINING WITH A VIEW
XANTHUS, Claremont Hotel, Southwest Harbor
Linen-draped tables, candles, and fresh flowers set the tone in the dining room, where big windows frame views over the manicured lawn, croquet courts, and Somes Sound. In the background: Acadia’s peaks and Frenchman Bay’s outer islands.
22 Claremont Rd. 800-244-5036; theclaremonthotel.com
BISTRO FARE
MACHE BISTRO, Bar Harbor
Come hungry. Hanger steak to duck confit, Atlantic scallops to lamb shanks, might be on Chef Kyle Yarborough’s daily-changing menu, featuring traditional French cuisine with Mediterranean accents.
321 Main St. 207-288-0447; machebistro.com
Spotlight: Portland
Portland is the largest city in Maine and its historic Old Port has never looked better. Here’s a list of some of our favorite things to do in Portland, Maine plus our picks for where to eat, shop, and stay in the area.
BEST THINGS TO DO IN PORTLAND, MAINE
MUSIC CLUB
ONE LONGFELLOW SQUARE
This nonprofit performance center located in the heart of the Arts District in Portland’s West End presents more than 200 concerts and events per year, making it a major magnet for the local music scene. Genres lean heavily toward folk, jazz, and blues with a dose of Celtic and bluegrass thrown in; comedy acts and art films help fill out the roster. Full bar service makes the intimate space, which seats 185, all the more congenial.
207-761-1757; onelongfellowsquare.com
FARMERS’ MARKET
PORTLAND FARMERS’ MARKET
From late April to late November, the Saturday morning market based in Deering Oaks Park celebrates everything that can be grown, raised, tended, or fermented for nearly a hundred miles around. That bounty comes in a rainbow, ranging from more than two dozen colors of cherry tomatoes to a broad palette of peppers, carrots, and beets. Portland chefs are buying from these same agricultural specialists, scooping up ingredients such as wild mushrooms from North Spore and yogurt and fresh cheeses from Swallowtail Farm—which means that your market visit will also tell you what’s really in season on a restaurant’s menu.
portlandmainefarmersmarket.org
STUDIO TOUR
WINSLOW HOMER STUDIO, Prouts Neck
After a major restoration, the Portland Museum of Art has opened this American master’s studio to the public for small-group tours departing from the museum’s campus.
Museum location: 7 Congress Sq. 207-775-6148; portlandmuseum.org
BAY TOUR
LUCKY CATCH LOBSTER TOUR
Cruise Casco Bay aboard the Lucky Catch, and in addition to learning all about lobsters, participants can help haul, bait, and set traps and perhaps even catch dinner.
170 Commercial St. 207-761-0941; luckycatch.com
SHOPPING ADVENTURE
RENY’S
Whether you’re shopping for souvenirs, school supplies, brand-name clothing, housewares, food, toys, or personal necessities, find them at Reny’s, a Maine-grown department store with wallet-friendly prices.
540 Congress St. 207-553-9061; renys.com
HISTORIC-HOUSE MUSEUM
VICTORIA MANSION
Widely considered the most magnificently ornamented dwelling of its period remaining in the country, the mid-19th-century Victoria Mansion retains about 90 percent of designer Gustave Herter’s original furnishings. Jaw-droppers include a 6-by-25-foot stained-glass ceiling window, mind-boggling trompe l’oeil wall and ceiling flourishes, and the dizzying colors and patterns of the Turkish Smoking Room.
109 Danforth St. 207-772-4841; victoriamansion.org
HISTORIC LIGHTHOUSE
PORTLAND HEAD LIGHT, Cape Elizabeth
In Fort Williams Park, just 4 miles from downtown Portland, Maine’s oldest lighthouse, commissioned by George Washington, guards the harbor. Visit the museum in the keeper’s house and picnic in the park.
1000 Shore Rd. 207-799-2661; portlandheadlight.com
Sunset at Portland Head Light
Credit: Stephen A. Clarke
Sunset at Portland Head Light Credit: Stephen A. Clarke
EASY ISLAND WALK
MACKWORTH ISLAND TRAIL, Falmouth
Tethered to the mainland by a causeway, 100-acre Mackworth was deeded to the state by Governor Percival Baxter. Borrow a map from the gatehouse and follow the easy 1.5-mile perimeter trail for great views of Casco Bay. Kids love Baxter’s pet cemetery.
Andrews Ave. Causeway (off Route 1). 207-775-2411; trails.org/our-trails/mackworth-island-trail
CASCO BAY SUNSET SAIL
PORTLAND SCHOONER COMPANY, Portland
Let daylight fade to night while cruising by lighthouses, forts, and islands on a two-hour sail aboard the historic windjammers Bagheera and Wendameen, both elegant ocean schooners built in East Boothbay.
Maine State Pier, 56 Commercial St. 207-766-2500; portlandschooner.com
BEST PLACES TO EAT IN PORTLAND, ME
DOUGHNUTS
THE HOLY DONUT
It has long been a tradition in Maine potato country to add mashed spuds to doughnut batter, yielding a fluffier, moister dunker. So when Leigh Kellis decided to open a doughnut shop in Portland in 2012, it was only natural that she would make her rounds with potatoes. The results not only nail the perfect texture but also come in 20-odd flavors that are uniformly excellent. Don’t miss the chocolate glazed sprinkled with sea salt, the ideal foil to all that sweet, chocolatey goodness. Locations in Portland and Scarborough.
207-775-7776; theholydonut.com
NEW RESTAURANT
DRIFTERS WIFE
Launched in 2016 as a small, quirky boîte where patrons could dine while they tasted the great wines sold in the back at Maine & Loire, Drifters Wife truly came into its own this winter when it and its sibling wine shop relocated to a bigger space next door. With the move came a full kitchen, a full bar, and nearly double the seating. It’s terrific news for fans of chef Ben Jackson, who cooks with a lusty palate, contrasting and concentrating strong flavors in a constantly changing menu. Think mackerel with aioli, scallions, and paprika, or crispy duck with kimchi and lardo.
207-805-1336; drifterswife.com
OYSTER BAR
EVENTIDE OYSTER CO.
The bar’s huge block of granite and ice topped with oysters signals you’ve come to the right place. Eventide made the old-fashioned oyster bar cool again by offering at least a dozen varieties—mostly from Maine but a few from “away”—on the half shell along with a sassy cocktail program. (The Dirty Dirty Martini pairs the booze with olive brine, oyster brine, and hot sauce.) The fried fish is often hake, an underutilized species this side of the Atlantic but a Parisian favorite.
207-774-8538; eventideoysterco.com
BREAKFAST
HOT SUPPA
Scratch-made breakfast specialties—such as rave-worthy corned-beef hash, biscuits and sausage gravy, French-style omelets, and burritos—draw the faithful to this venerable brick Victorian in the city’s West End.
703 Congress St. 207-871-5005; hotsuppa.com
FINE DINING
BACK BAY GRILL
It’s not the trendiest restaurant in town, but white-tablecloth elegance combined with professional service makes Back Bay Grill a perennial favorite for a special evening. The nightly changing menu might include grilled filet mignon or lavender-marinated duck breast.
65 Portland St. 207-772-8833; backbaygrill.com
PATISSERIE
PORTLAND PATISSERIE & GRAND CAFE
Find Paris in Portland at Steve and Michelle Corry’s classic pâtisserie, serving pastries, cakes, and tarts, of course, but also crêpes, croissants, quiche, sandwiches, salads, and other light fare in a bright and airy, order-at-the-counter spot in Old Port.
46 Market St. 207-553-2555; portlandpatisserie.com
ICE CREAM
MOUNT DESERT ISLAND ICE CREAM
Oh my! Crazy rich, crazy good, crazy flavors. Try “Bay of Figs,” “Cinnamon 7 Layer,” lavender–white chocolate, blackstrap–banana, and other small batches of deliciousness.
51 Exchange St. 207-210-3432; mdiic.com
FARM-TO-TABLE DINING
THE WELL AT JORDAN’S FARM, Cape Elizabeth
Gaze over the Spurwink River and Marsh while dining al fresco. Chef Jason Williams offers a four-item menu drawn from the farm’s bounty. Cash only.
21 Wells Rd. 207-831-9350; jordansfarm.wix.com/thewell
EVENING IN PARIS
PETITE JACQUELINE
Traditional French bistro fare–Nicoise salad, onion soup, cassoulet, dessert crêpes–plus daily cheese and charcuterie plates and a raw bar are the draws at this unpretentious Arts District restaurant.
46 Market St. 207-553-7044; bistropj.com
BEST PLACES TO STAY IN PORTLAND, ME
ROMANTIC GETAWAY
THE INN AT DIAMOND COVE
You and your significant other can leave both car and cares on the mainland when you hop a Casco Bay Ferry to Great Diamond Island, where bicycles and electric golf carts are the chief alternatives to walking. An inspired redeployment of the former barracks of the 1890s Fort McKinley, the 44-room Inn at Diamond Cove offers a plush and tranquil retreat. To up the intimacy factor, ask for a parlor suite with fireplace for snuggling on a cool night, and reserve a waterfront table at the inn’s sister restaurant, Diamond’s Edge.
207-805-9836; innatdiamondcove.com
B&B
THE DANFORTH INN
New owners have revitalized this 1823 Federal mansion, updating it with a mix of period and contemporary Asian-accented art and antiques. The inn’s justly acclaimed fine-dining restaurant serves authentic Southeast Asian cuisine.
163 Danforth St. 207-879-8755; danforthinn.com
BEST DOWNTOWN HOTEL
THE PRESS HOTEL
The full-service Press Hotel’s décor takes its cue from its home in the former headquarters of the state’s largest newspaper. Fronting on Congress at the head of Exchange and Market streets, the location is ideal for exploring the city. The hotel’s Union restaurant earns raves.
119 Exchange St. 207-808-8800; thepresshotel.com
Best Downtown Hotel | The Press Hotel
BEST ISLAND INN
INN ON PEAKS
Walk off the ferry, and it’s just steps to the Inn on Peaks on Peaks Island, where each suite has a water view, a gas fireplace, a Jacuzzi, and a private deck for taking in sunset views of Portland’s skyline across the harbor.
33 Island Ave. 207-766-5100; innonpeaks.com
BEST BEACHFRONT FAMILY ESCAPE
INN BY THE SEA, Cape Elizabeth
A pool, boardwalk, onsite butterfly and bunny preserves, kids’ programs, lawn games, and a dog-friendly policy make family vacations easy at this seaside inn.
40 Bowery Beach Rd. 207-799-3134; innbythesea.com
BEST BOUTIQUE HOTEL
PORTLAND HARBOR HOTEL
Built around a courtyard in an enviable Old Port location one block off the waterfront, the hotel pampers guests with handsome updated rooms and suites, a cozy lounge and restaurant, and concierge and spa services.
468 Fore St. 888-798-9090, 207-775-9090; portlandharborhotel.com