Last fall we had a really persistent woodpecker pecking holes in the corner boards of our house. We’ve had the boards replaced, but we wondered if the bird will be back this spring. Why do they do this, and how can we keep them off our new corner boards? —Calvin A., Dublin, NH Woodpeckers drill […]
By Yankee Magazine
Apr 02 2018
Last fall we had a really persistent woodpecker pecking holes in the corner boards of our house. We’ve had the boards replaced, but we wondered if the bird will be back this spring. Why do they do this, and how can we keep them off our new corner boards? —Calvin A., Dublin, NH
Woodpeckers drill or drum (normally on trees) somewhat seasonally. In spring, the drumming is often territorial or related to mating, while drilling, which chips out holes, commonly indicates searching for food or creating a winter roost.
Bird deterrent kits are available, but DIY solutions are easy to make from various materials. Attaching shiny objects — such as long Mylar party streamers, aluminum pie pans, or tin can lids — onto the house in the damaged areas create irregular movement that will startle the bird. Mass Audubon suggests extending Mylar balloons on very long strings in front of areas that aren’t accessible or squirting hoses near the birds (not at them) if they settle onto the house.
But woodpeckers can also be indicators of an underlying pest problem. If the drilling returns, you may be able to carefully remove a corner board to check for insect activity. If you see frass (sawdust) or bright orange wood, have a pest inspector treat the area before putting the board back. A borate pest-control treatment is standard in those situations and won’t cause any harm to the building.
Sally Zimmerman Senior preservation services manager
Why are there bricks between the framing in some old houses? —Nathan Z., Newmarket, NH
Bricks used between the framing in very old houses are called nogging. They were being used in England by the early 17th century and in early New England around the same time. This building tradition is fairly common in New England houses, particularly in southern New England and in more substantial dwellings. Several Historic New England house museums in Massachusetts retain nogging, including Gedney House (1665) in Salem, Browne House (c. 1698) in Watertown, and Pierce House (1683) in Boston.
Nogging continued to be used through the 18th century, and historians have several theories about its purpose. It’s widely assumed that nogging was used to insulate and draft-proof structures. It may have also been used to keep out vermin and as a fire retardant.
Nogging bricks are softer than bricks used for construction. They came from the outermost portions of the kiln, which received less heat during firing, and were therefore more suitable for infill. Soft-fired bricks can be delicate and require special care if work is undertaken. Nogging was usually plastered over, though in rare instances it was left exposed.
Dylan Peacock Preservation services manager
My historic home sits on a large property studded with many different trees and shrubs. I’m not sure how to plan for caring for all these plants or when to call in an arborist. —Dan A., Lenox, MA
The setting of a historic home is a crucial component of the site, and caring for the health of individual trees, bushes, and plantings can be a big job. If you have a large area to manage and a limited budget, it’s helpful to break it down into zones. These zones would indicate areas of high risk, like trees and bushes near well-used paths or close to the house or trees in highly trafficked areas near abutters. Medium- and low-risk zones are those in lesser-used paths and fields and woodlands.
Spring is a good time to assess the health of plantings. Specimen trees located in high-risk areas should be inspected regularly (every one to three years) by an arborist, while those in medium- or low-risk zones could go every three to five years between inspections. During the review, note the species, size, and health of the tree, as well as the presence of insects, disease, or broken limbs. This helps you create a long-term arbor care strategy for your property.
For casual pruning near the house, keep all vegetation cut back to about three feet from the building. This keeps the elevations drier. It’s also wise to clean gutters beneath tree branches more regularly to help avoid moisture damage.
Gillian Lang Preservation services manager
Got a question about an old house you need answered? Submit your questions to Historic New England at: Editor@YankeePub.com. Historic New England is the oldest, largest, and most comprehensive regional heritage organization in the nation. Historic New England shares the region’s history through vast collections, publications, programs, museum properties, archives, and stories that document more than 400 years of life in New England. For more information visit: HistoricNewEngland.org.