Why We Love the Massachusetts North Shore: Beaches, Seafood & Coastal Charm
A Massachusetts travel writer makes the case for the North Shore, with its seafood, maritime heritage, natural beauty, and arts-and-culture scene.
Less than 20 miles north of Boston, Marblehead has long been known as a hub for competitive sailing, with some even calling it the “yachting capital of the world.”
Credit: Adam DeTourEditor’s note: This essay originally appeared as part of a friendly Yankee debate over which Massachusetts shoreline reigns supreme. Here, writer Diane Bair makes the case for her favorite coast.
I spent 30 years on the North Shore of Massachusetts and raised two kids there, but it wasn’t until we moved away that I realized how lucky I had been. O land of fried clams, roast beef sandwiches, beautiful beaches, and quirky attractions, how could I take you for granted?
My family lives on Cape Cod now, but I’m a North Shore girl to my bones. I therefore believe that the North Shore beats the South Shore in every category. Do not challenge me on this: North Shore kids are scrappy.
Driving back to the North Shore always brings a lump to my throat. It seems like every place has a memory attached: Russell Orchards in Ipswich, for one, where we once shared a hayride with actor Adam Sandler and his family, and the North Shore Music Theatre in Beverly, where my kids first experienced the thrill of a live stage show.
Misty-eyed nostalgia aside, I’ve come to appreciate the unique appeal of today’s North Shore, with its blend of maritime heritage, natural beauty, and arts and culture, plus a food scene that leans toward tasty, not fancy. (Although if you’re craving, say, Chilean uni brûlée, you’ll find it, too.)

Credit: Kathy Tarantola/PEM

Credit: Adam DeTour
Along this 200-mile stretch of coastline that runs from Boston’s northern suburbs to the New Hampshire border, history runs deep. For thousands of years, this coastline was home to several native tribes, including the Agawam, Naumkeag, and Pennacook people. By the early 1600s, even before Gloucester was officially incorporated as a town, the first fishing settlements were established.
Now the country’s oldest seaport, Gloucester is still defined by its working waterfront, and its lively backstory is showcased at Maritime Gloucester, a small museum featuring an aquarium filled with local sea life (including the occasional “misfit” lobster in rarely seen colors of blue, purple, and pink). For those who want to get out on the water here minus the drudgery of pulling in lobster pots, book a sail on the schooner Ardelle through museum partner Maritime Heritage Charters.
Another famously historic North Shore city is Salem, known for better or worse as the home of the Salem Witch Trials. No surprise that its most popular attraction is the Salem Witch Museum, with tourists queuing up in long lines outside the Gothic-looking former church to see dramatic presentations based on the infamous events of 1692 and 1693—and often snapping a selfie with the witchy-looking statue out front (it’s actually Salem’s founder, Roger Conant).
In this eminently walkable city, traveling from one attraction to the next is just a short stroll. A few blocks from the witch museum you’ll find the oldest continuously operating museum in the county, the Peabody Essex Museum, dating back to 1799. It holds treasures galore, including the world’s largest Asian export art collection and a wow-worthy assemblage of maritime art—and psst, its gift shop is outstanding.

Credit: Adam DeTour

Credit: Adam DeTour
At the risk of playing favorites, my own hometown of Beverly has much to recommend culture-wise, too. There’s the North Shore Music Theatre, whose rare theater-in-the-round stage draws Broadway-caliber productions, and The Cabot, a fabulous 1920s movie palace that was recently renovated and now hosts concerts, comedy, and free “community conversations.” And throughout the town, the presence of the Montserrat College of Art and hip ventures like board-game restaurant The Castle add a frisson of cool to this historic city, which once served as the summer home for President William Howard Taft.
I won’t even try to be impartial when it comes to describing the allure of Marblehead. When people think “New England village,” they’re conjuring up something much like the Old Town section of Marblehead. Snugly situated in a tangle of streets that offer peeks of gorgeous Marblehead Harbor, this neighborhood is an architectural treasure trove of grand mansions and quaint cottages, ranging from 17th-century colonial-era dwellings to 18th-century Georgian and Federal beauties, with a few Victorians for added oomph.
Rivaling Marblehead for aesthetic appeal is Rockport, also on the coast but farther north, on Cape Ann. Its Hallmark-movie bona fides center on Motif No. 1, the red fishing shack immortalized in countless photos and paintings—but this seaside village offers more than just something pretty to point a camera at. Along the richly historic peninsula of Bearskin Neck, you’ll find funky one-off shops and restaurants like The Pewter Shop, Tuck’s Candy Factory, and My Place by the Sea, a romantic dining spot overlooking the ocean.

Credit: Adam DeTour
Speaking of ocean views: Some might argue that all Atlantic coast beaches are equally lovely, but c’mon—have you seen Crane Beach in Ipswich? Backed by dunes, this pristine five-mile strand of luxuriously soft sand is part of the 2,100-acre Crane Estate, considered a crown jewel among The Trustees’ 100-plus properties in Massachusetts.
Several other North Shore beaches are standouts as well, but for families, Gloucester’s Good Harbor Beach reigns supreme. There’s ample parking (though nonresidents must reserve their spot in advance during peak season), and Good Harbor’s shallow areas are suitable for the tiniest beachgoers.
Another outdoor treat on the North Shore is Plum Island, an 11-mile-long barrier island that is best experienced by wandering the trails of Parker River National Wildlife Refuge. Hailed as one of the region’s top destinations for birding, the refuge is home to more than 300 species, including the threatened piping plover. Even if you don’t know a grebe from a grackle, it’s a joy to go exploring here, and there’s even a prize at Plum Island’s southern end: Sandy Point State Reservation. With waters that are warm by Atlantic standards and offering views of the Crane Estate and Cape Ann, it invites settling in for a serene beach day.

Credit: Adam DeTour
Food lovers have their own reasons to linger along the North Shore. After a busy day on Cape Ann, for instance, you can settle in at Rockport’s Roy Moore Lobster Company for the best eats on Bearskin Neck: lobster rolls and chowder. And if you’ve never eaten a fried whole belly clam, have you even been to the North Shore? This, after all, is where Lawrence “Chubby” Woodman is said to have invented the fried clam, forever changing seafood and making his waterfront shack, Woodsman’s of Essex, a bucket-list destination.
The North Shore has its share of upscale eateries, too, with one of the most intriguing—and acclaimed—being Nightshade Noodle Bar in Lynn. Attracting diners from Boston and beyond with her take on French- and Vietnamese-inspired seafood, James Beard Award–nominated chef-owner Rachel Miller does it her way, offering prix fixe tasting menus in a lively, intimate space.
And this, people, is why the North Shore is the best shore … heck, maybe even the best of all shores. Culture, clams, sand castles—there’s so much to love.
Looking for the opposing point of view? Read our companion feature on why another Massachusetts travel writer believes the South Shore is the state’s best coast.
Why We Love the Massachusetts South Shore: History, Beaches & Bar Pizza

Credit: Adam DeTour
Guide to the Massachusetts North Shore
North Shore Attractions
The Cabot Theatre, Beverly
One of the few surviving movie palaces of the 1920s, the Cabot was recently transformed to make it comfortable for contemporary show-goers. Happily, the ornate details remain a gorgeous backdrop for the world-class live performances and films it regularly hosts.
Crane Beach, Ipswich
Four miles of white sand beach, five-plus miles of hiking trails—no wonder this beloved beach crops up on so many “best beaches” lists. Wander the sands while taking in the views of the handsome Crane Estate, or head into the wild landscape of coastal dunes and maritime forests.
Firehouse Center for the Arts, Newburyport
Music, comedy shows, theater, film, children’s productions—it all happens here, in a 191-seat converted firehouse.
Good Harbor Beach, Gloucester
One of the best stretches of sand on the North Shore, Good Harbor attracts beachgoers for active pursuits as well as lounging. At low tide, walk out to Salt Island; at high tide, do some body surfing or float on the estuary.
Halibut Point Reservation, Rockport
Located on an oceanside bluff and accessible via Halibut Point State Park, this area was once home to a granite quarry. Now it’s a place to explore 2.5 miles of trails alongside ledges and tidepools, and to get a brief history of Cape Ann’s long-gone granite quarrying industry at the park’s visitors center. thetrustees.org
Hammond Castle Museum, Gloucester
On a plot of oceanfront land in Gloucester, inventor John Hays Hammond Jr. built this wildly intriguing home and laboratory. Blending medieval, Gothic, and French village architecture, Hammond Castle houses a treasure trove of artifacts, in addition to rotating exhibits. Candlelit spiritualism tours are a popular option.
The House of the Seven Gables, Salem
The setting of Nathaniel Hawthorne’s novel of the same name, this intriguing 1668 home on Salem Harbor is a must for lovers of history and literature.
Maritime Gloucester, Gloucester
Get the scoop on the local fishing industry at this maritime museum and education center, located on the waterfront. Exhibits include a marine railway, a dory shop, galleries, and an outdoor aquarium with local marine species.
Maritime Heritage Charters, Gloucester
Enjoy the scenery of the North Shore from the water with a 2-hour public sail on the Schooner Ardelle. Modeled after an 1845 ship but built in 2010-2011, the classic design is extra comfortable for modern-day cruising.
North Shore Music Theatre, Beverly
Culture lovers, take note: This theater in the round produces six musicals each year. NSMT also hosts a celebrity concert series and shows for children.
Peabody Essex Museum, Salem
Dating back to 1799, PEM is the oldest still-operating museum in the country. Located in downtown Salem, the museum’s collection includes more than one million objects. A new gallery is devoted to 19th- and early-20th-century Korean art.
Punto Urban Art Museum, Salem
Located in Salem’s El Punto (aka The Point) neighborhood, this open-air art extravaganza features more than 75 large-scale murals created by local, national, and international artists.
Russell Orchards, Ipswich
Come for the cider doughnuts, fresh apple cider, and plentiful pumpkins; stay to pick-your-own apples (they grow more than 30 varieties). A fall favorite for sure, but summer brings strawberry picking—and nothing tastes better than a warmed-by-the-sun berry.
Salem Witch Museum, Salem
Salem’s most-visited museum seeks to give voice to the innocent victims of witch hunts from 1692 to the present day. Life-size figures populate stage sets with moody lighting and narration that brings the Salem Witch Trials to life. A companion exhibit, “Witches: Evolving Perceptions,” places these events within the broader context of history.
Shalin Liu Performance Center, Rockport
Launched in 1981 as the Rockport Chamber Music Festival, Rockport Music opened this state-of-the-art concert hall in 2010 and evolved into a landmark location for chamber music, jazz, pop, and folk artists.
Singing Beach, Manchester-by-the-Sea
Named for the unique squeaking sound that the sand makes as you stroll along the waterline, Singing Beach lets you soak up the sun while gazing out at the whimsically named offshore boulders and micro-islands (Little Salt, Boohoo Ledge). There’s a bathhouse and snack stand; for beach reads, Manchester by the Book is just a short walk away.

Credit: Adam DeTour
North Shore Dining
Clam Box, Ipswich
Plump, juicy, and redolent of the sea, the fried clams here (bellies intact) have offered a glorious taste of summertime since 1935. Crunchy, briny deliciousness, we salute you. Pair with a visit to Crane Beach, and you’ve experienced some of the best the North Shore has to offer.
DownRiver Ice Cream, Essex
A brightly colored board announces the inventive flavors being scooped that day, ranging from Tree Sap (starring real Vermont maple syrup) to Willy Wonka Explosion (loaded with M&Ms and Butterfinger and Snickers chunks). It’s all crafted on-site, using a scratch-made base.
Goodnight Fatty, Salem
Buh-bye, diet! But you won’t really care; the cookies (aka fatties) at this Salem bakery are that good. They’re chunky and loaded with sweet stuff—think candy bits and Fruity Pebbles. A new lineup of three flavors is released each Friday.
Kelly’s Roast Beef, Revere
OK, Revere is a bit more Boston than North Shore, but we had to include the original outpost of this fabled chain, launched in 1951 as a hot dog stand on Revere Beach. The Kelly’s three-way roast beef sandwich (cheese, barbecue sauce, mayo) is an old-school carnivore delight.
Nightshade Noodle Bar, Lynn
Chef Rachel Miller brought her French-meets-Vietnamese-inspired seafood restaurant to downtown Lynn and won raves—plus numerous James Beard Award nominations. There are nine-, 14-, 21-, and 30(!)-course fixed price tasting menus, as well as an introductory seven-course tasting menu (served before 6 p.m.).
Roy Moore Lobster Company, Rockport
The lines out front tell the story: This father-and-son-operated fish shack is the go-to on Rockport’s Bearskin Neck for local, fresh lobster, lobster rolls, and thick chowder that really hits the spot.
Sunset Club, Newbury
Embrace the surf-y energy of Plum Island with empanadas and tacos, frozen margaritas, and showstopping sunsets over the expansive salt marsh—best viewed from an outdoor table, preferably after a day at the beach. sunsetclubpi.com Woodman’s of Essex, Essex: More than 100 years ago, Lawrence “Chubby” Woodman invented the fried clam. Folks continue to line up at this sprawling seafood shack, open year-round, for native steamers, boiled lobster, fried shrimp boats, chowder, and, yes, fried clams.

Credit: Rare Brick (courtesy of The Hotel Salem)
North Shore Lodging
Beauport Hotel, Gloucester
This oceanfront hotel is the definition of coastal chic. Rooms and suites are decorated in shades of sea, sand, and sky, punctuated by work from local artists. On-site and nearby dining options include the 1606 Restaurant & Oyster Bar, Birdseye Rooftop Pool & Bar (seasonal), and Seaport Grille.
Briar Barn Inn, Rowley
This cozy farmhouse retreat offers 30 guest rooms with country charm and modern amenities. There’s a spa and landscaped garden paths, plus a beautiful post-and-beam barn that holds the Grove restaurant and bar.
Harbor Light Inn, Marblehead
When Walter Cronkite hitched up his yacht to come ashore, he stayed at this elegant 1729 residence turned B&B. There’s a pub, a pool, an expansive breakfast buffet, so stash your car keys—you won’t need them.
Hawthorne Hotel, Salem
A landmark on Salem Common, this stately 1925 Federal-style hotel was named after native son Nathaniel Hawthorne. Decor is luxe, with gold accents aplenty, and wingback chairs for lounging near the fireplace at The Tavern.
The Hotel Salem, Salem
Set on the bustling Essex Street pedestrian mall, The Hotel Salem is a 44-room boutique hotel with Mad Men–era flair. Innovative design touches include “microroom” options and a suite with a sleeping loft, and above it all is Salem’s only open-air rooftop bar, high enough to survey the city down to the harbor.



