The Leaves Shine On in New Bern

Sponsored by Visit New Bern

The Brice’s Creek Canoe Trail is made for meandering on October days, when daytime temps peak in the mid to upper 70s. Over 12 delightful miles, the gentle waters of this beloved journey—a stretch of the only national-forest saltwater trail in the country—give boaters a front-row seat to the Croatan National Forest and the majestic beauty that is North Carolina’s eastern tidelands. Amidst the verdant lace of cypress, pine, and shaggy Spanish moss, this refreshing autumnal experience feels remote, when in fact you’re merely a short trek from a quaint yet cosmopolitan town center. And just a quick, direct flight from the Northeast.

Evidently proud of its colonial roots, restored 19th-century architecture, and epicurean scene garnished with Southern tradition, New Bern imbues its attractions with a welcoming spirit that makes it easy for New Englanders to start adventuring. Dive right in with a morning paddle, followed by a historic trolley tour in the afternoon, then wind down with dinner and a live show. That’s but a single day’s itinerary. Lavish brunches, serene riverwalk strolls, and radiant waterfront sights on sunset cruises add to the allure of time spent here.

Even when it’s stick season up north, golden ginkgo foliage watches over downtown New Bern. And throughout the fall the city continues to add hues to its cultural palette, keeping pace with the kaleidoscopic foliage. Festivities pack New Bern’s autumn calendar, from the New Bern Historical Society’s family-friendly Ghostwalk (October 22–24) to the Fun in the Sun car show (October 15–17). Thousands of pumpkins are displayed across the front lawn and graveyard of Christ Episcopal Church for its annual October fundraiser. Plus there are culinary tours, spine-tingling Ghosts of New Bern walks that step off from the Black Cat Shoppe, and art-studio visits. But for sheer variety nothing tops MumFest (October 10–11), a two-day extravaganza of live music, amusement rides, food, and flowers that draws some 75,000 attendees each year.

“It’s hard to believe that a place like this can exist,” says Lindsey Able, founder of Bear Feet Street Tours, whose walking tours offer an entertaining primer on New Bern’s history.

She has considerable material to draw from. Nestled at the confluence of the Trent and Neuse rivers, New Bern is North Carolina’s second-oldest European-settled town and the site of its original capital, where the newly inaugurated George Washington spent two nights on his Southern Tour in 1791, and where, a century later, an enterprising pharmacist invented Pepsi-Cola.

Today’s eminently walkable city center is sprinkled with grand gardens and historic homes ranging from Georgians to craftsman bungalows that will catch the eye of any architecture lover. Along Pollock Street resides a neighborhood of Victorian-era inns so beloved it’s rightfully earned the nickname B&B Row. 

The past is very much present in other ways, too. Check in at Tryon Palace, a faithful recreation of the state’s original capital building, where you can tour the formal gardens, opulent ballrooms, and government chambers that irked the colonists whose taxes funded the property. Just down the road, the New Bern Firemen’s Museum tells the surprising story of the city’s firefighting department, including the New England industries that fueled much of its early growth and development. Civil War buffs, meanwhile, will relish their time at New Bern Battlefield Park as they walk the preserved, undeveloped grounds where Union and Confederate soldiers clashed on March 14, 1862.

For out-of-towners, the ease of visiting New Bern begins with the flight. Breeze Airways offers nonstop, low-cost runs from Hartford’s Bradley International Airport. One-way fares for as little as $69 have you touching down only 90 minutes after taking off. Even better: The recently expanded Coastal Carolina Regional Airport is as easy an airport to navigate as you’re going to experience. You’re in, you’re out, and it’s a mere 10-minute ride from downtown.

Southern hospitality is to be expected, and you won’t be disappointed when it comes to resting your head. Take your pick from New Bern’s historic B&Bs or keep it practical with the Hiltons, Courtyards, and DoubleTrees that have dropped anchor near the riverfront.

One of the newest lodgings to open its doors is The Harvey, a restored 18th-century mansion that has been transformed into a stunning 10-room, tech-driven hotel. The three-year undertaking that brought this brick landmark back to life—retaining its original character while incorporating modern conveniences—won the 2025 North Carolina Main Street Award of Merit for Best Adaptive Reuse Project.

Beyond its array of elegant appointments, however, The Harvey does the important work of putting guests in the heart of downtown, where locally owned shops project an “everybody knows your name” kind of vibe. Steaming lattes and baked goods can be found at New Bern Coffee Roasters; there’s cool clothing and outdoor gear at Surf, Wind, and Fire; and a little bit of everything at Mitchell Hardware, from fun tchotchkes to clothing.

In recent years, several new restaurants have also made a home in the downtown center, serving up an array of cuisines that is nearly as breathtaking as the city’s river views.

At Baxter’s 1892, you’ll find classic cocktails and Jazz Age ambience, and in the 1912 building first occupied by Pepsi’s concoctor, Caleb Bradham, restaurateur Ron McHugh brings his Boston ties to the menu at The Chelsea (cream of crab is New Bern’s clam chowder). The desserts are otherworldly at Poppy’s Bites and Barrels (insider’s tip: save room for the carrot cake), while the dogs and deli-style sandwiches at Lawson’s on the Creek are a delightful excuse to linger as you gaze at the flowing Neuse and peep the leaves through big picture windows.

Of course, there’s no rush to take it all in at once. Autumn in New Bern runs long, lending the riverside city to repeat visits as the days get shorter. It’s no secret New Englanders know how to make the utmost of a good foliage season before it fades away. A trip or two to New Bern to keep the fires of fall burning is the best strategy we know.

Ready to plan your fall getaway? Start your New Bern travel planning at visitnewbern.com/ct.

Ian Aldrich

Ian Aldrich is the executive editor at Yankee, where he has worked for more for two decades. As the magazine’s staff feature writer, he writes stories that delve deep into issues facing communities throughout New England. In 2019 he received gold in the reporting category at the annual City-Regional Magazine conference for his story on New England’s opioid crisis. Ian’s work has been recognized by both the Best American Sports and Best American Travel Writing anthologies. He lives with his family in Dublin, New Hampshire.

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