Winter Weekend at Mohegan Sun

We were unsure what had hit us. Three hours before, my teenage son and I had left the depths of winter in New Hampshire, and now we were standing at the entrance to one of the grand gaming halls at Mohegan Sun. Glitz and glam sparkled as far as the eye could see. Slot machines chirped and rang. Lights pulsated in different colors. A young couple paraded around in matching Hawaiian shirts; others strolled in shorts. There were fancy-looking cocktails. There was jubilation. I wondered: Was it still February? Were we still in New England?

As we shed our coats, an affable middle-aged man took note of our confusion. “You trying to figure out which way to go?” he asked politely. Glancing at our suitcases, he pointed to our right, far beyond the casino section. “Head that way, toward the elevators,” he said. “The hotel lobby is on the second floor. I’ll walk you over.”

When I asked the man if he worked for Mohegan Sun, he chuckled. “No,” he said, “but I do make my living here. I gave up my tow trucking business a few years ago, and [playing blackjack] is what I do now.” He grinned. “It’s not a bad life.”

More than 30 years ago, legalized gambling on tribal lands put south-central Connecticut on the map with the opening of the Mashantucket Pequot tribe’s Foxwoods casino, in Mashantucket. Four years later, in 1996, neighboring Mohegan Nation debuted its casino in Uncasville, Mohegan Sun. And in the decades since, both establishments have evolved to pack a strong family-friendly appeal.

Today, Mohegan Sun—which celebrates its 30th anniversary later this year—stretches out across 5.5 million square feet. In addition to a pair of large casinos, the resort is anchored by two hotel towers, whose luxury suites cater to high rollers of all types (former New England Patriots tight end Rob Gronkowski hosted his retirement party here in 2022). At one end of the resort is a Mandara Spa; at the other, a 10,000-seat arena. In between there are nearly 50 restaurants and bars as well as a large family arcade and a shopping mall that includes Sephora, Le Creuset, and Yankee Candle—there’s even a Tesla showroom. Each year, some 7 million people stream through the resort’s doors, many of whom will never pull a slot machine arm.

Mohegan’s popularity doesn’t slow down in winter, and for good reason: On dark and chilly New England days, the resort’s 24-hour bustle can feel like a shot of vitamin D. At the time of our visit, Mohegan was coming off its biggest event of the year, the Sun Wine & Food Fest, a four-day party in which vintners and celebrity chefs from across the country showcase their creations. Restaurant Week was looming, as was a giant Super Bowl party in which hundreds of fans would watch the big game on the casino’s 140-foot-wide screen, the largest video wall in the Northeast. Meanwhile, ’80s glam rocker Bret Michaels and his Parti-Gras tour had steamed into town. So had caravans of high school kids and their parents for a regional AAU volleyball tournament that filled one of Mohegan’s huge convention centers. There was action everywhere you looked.

My son and I, however, were after more low-key diversions. At the arcade, I rediscovered my Pac-Man mojo, then served up a helping of “the old guy still has it” at the bowling lanes. In between the games, a concert, and some light shopping, we also found our appetite. Beyond the plump lobster rolls on the menu at The Shed, New England flavors and names abound at Mohegan Sun. The late super-chef and foodie evangelist Jasper White opened a Summer Shack here in 2009. Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana has been serving up its famous New Haven–style pizza at Mohegan Sun for years; more recently, an outpost of the beloved Mystic, Connecticut, bakery Sift made its debut. And our visit just happened to coincide with the opening of Beauty & Essex, a supper-club-meets-pawnshop experience created by chef and native Rhode Islander Chris Santos.

But the show at Mohegan Sun goes beyond the showiness. All across the resort, you’ll see signs that this is more than just an entertainment complex; it’s an emblem of sovereignty. Underlying the whole casino experience is the story of the Mohegan Nation, which won federal recognition in 1994 only after years of legal battles, and reminders of the tribe’s long journey are everywhere—from the casino’s lighting design and other decorative touches to more on-the-nose historical displays, like an exhibit of tools in one of the grand hallways. Here is a large mural that depicts the tribe’s origin story; there is a 55-foot indoor waterfall that symbolizes the Mohegans’ perilous crossing of the Hudson River during their migration from New York to Connecticut in the 1600s.

Visitors don’t have to venture far to dig even deeper into the past. Just a few miles away, John Tantaquidgeon’s vision is still going strong. The Mohegan elder opened his namesake museum in 1931 out of the belief that the best way to foster connections was to showcase his tribe’s culture. Now, this small but mighty institution is the oldest Native American–owned and –operated museum in the country. Tours are free and led by tribe members who share the stories behind antiquities that include stone hatchets, dolls, baskets, and a late-19th-century canoe gifted to the Mohegan tribe by the Passamaquoddy in Maine more than a hundred years ago.

My son and I were still talking about the Tantaquidgeon Museum on our last night at Mohegan Sun. A light snow had started to fall, and as we looked out the window from our room high atop one of the hotel towers, toward the Thames River, everything seemed peaceful and still. Down below, the casino was churning in color and sound, but the outside world presented something quite different. It was hard not to enjoy the contrast.

My son stared out for a long minute. “It’s so cozy up here,” he said. A long stretch of winter still remained—but for another night, at a place not far from our home, we could enjoy it from a distance.

See More: Things to Do at Mohegan Sun: Where to Eat, Stay, and Play

Ian Aldrich

Ian Aldrich is the executive editor at Yankee, where he has worked for more for two decades. As the magazine’s staff feature writer, he writes stories that delve deep into issues facing communities throughout New England. In 2019 he received gold in the reporting category at the annual City-Regional Magazine conference for his story on New England’s opioid crisis. Ian’s work has been recognized by both the Best American Sports and Best American Travel Writing anthologies. He lives with his family in Dublin, New Hampshire.

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