Potato Chowder to Pesto | A Brief History of Yankee’s Recipe Archives

This year marks Yankee‘s 80th anniversary. Eighty years! Not bad for an independent , family-owned publishing company (actually, the reason we’ve survived this long probably has everything to do with not having been swallowed up by a New York-based media conglomerate). We’re planning a full anniversary issue in September and for that reason, I’ve been spending a lot of time with our archives. This is one of the best parts of my job: tracing how we thought and wrote about food in our pages, starting with the first issue in 1935. And I’m watching for common threads, trends, and novelties as I go. Here are some of the highlights of my research into Yankee‘s first 50 years, organized by decade: 1930s

• This is old-school New England cooking from the British tradition. No evidence of Italians or Irish or Portuguese cooking yet, though French and Acadian recipes show up here and there.
• Food stories are infrequent, but comprehensive: Dozens of potato recipes in a single story, including ones for needhams (potato candy), potato donuts, and potato shortcake (can’t wait to try that).
• A new food column is introduced: “Thoughts for Food,” and features a Rhode Island Clambake (“Which you will note differs from that down Maine”) with photos of the setup.
• Another “Thoughts for Food” column on homemade drinks includes recipes for root beer, rye coffee, and rosemary tea.

1940s

• Food coverage expands, with multiple recipes in most every issue. Food remains traditional: plenty of oysters, maple, blueberries and molasses. However, in 1949, both “Shishkabob” and “Chinese Dumplings” make an appearance.
• Wartime recipes taught readers how to bake without sugar (maple syrup and honey were popular substitutes)
• 1940: First appearance of “Pigs in Blankets,” though this recipe is made with oysters, not hot dogs.
• Industrial foods begin to appear in recipes: Tomato Soup Cake (1947), Frankfurter Casserole (1948)
• Exotic bananas were the sole subject of one October, 1948 article. Recipes included Banana Chocolate Chip Cookies, Banana “Scallops” (really sliced bananas rolled in crushed cornflakes and fried) and Banana Rye Bread.

1950s

• Returning GIs bring a taste for international foods. Thus, Italian Spaghetti (1950), Tuna Parisienne (1951), African Lemon Cakes (1956),  East India Curry of Chicken (1951).
• With post-war affluence, comes more elaborate, adventurous meals. These issues are studded with recipes for appetizers and canapés. Desserts are all chantilly pies and pumpkin puffs. Classics remain (Indian pudding, molasses fudge), but these menus are designed with entertaining in mind.
• With the wide availability of refrigerators and freezers, frozen desserts and appetizers are everywhere: Frozen Peach Almond Cake (1950), Yankee Frozen Lemon Pie (1950), Toll House Frozen Fruit Salad (1954), Deviled Frozen Fillets (1953).

1960s

• Amidst social upheaval, recipes become overtly nostalgic: Old Fashioned Honeymoon Cookies (1960s),Great-Great Gram’s Mincemeat (1960), Gram Dodge’s Nut Cake (1961), Aunt Mary’s Union Cake (1963), Gran’s Old-Fashioned Pork Cake (1965).
• Continental cuisine enters the scene:”Les Crustaces a la Rosshaven” (1963),Chicken a la Pinafore (1964), Cucumber a la Sour (1967).
• Convenience is king as the decade winds down: Instant Vichysoisse (1967),Quick-E-Licious Potatoes (1969), No-Knead Bread (1968). Yes, we predated the no-knead bread craze of the 2000s by forty years.

1970s

• Hippie cooking emerges:Raw Spinach Salad Dressing (1970), Broiled Soyburgers (1973), Wholemeal Bread with Potatoes (1974), Molasses Whole Wheat Bread (1978).
• A new spirit of experimentation and love of aspic yields some truly foul-sounding dishes:Clam Cordial Soup (1970), Jellied Roquefort Cheese Mousse (1970), Maraschino Party Cake (1973), Tomato-Cress Aspic Salad (1974).
• Casserole are a busy lady’s best friend: Yodeling Good Swiss Casserole (1970), Corned Beef Hash and Tomato Casserole (1977), Hamburg Sandwich Bake (1977).
• In 1979, Yankee runs its first story devoted to Chinese cuisine, as practiced by a New Hampshire cookbook author named Millie Nelson. Among her recipes: Lion’s Head Meatballs.

1980s

• The magazine rides high on a robust economy and booming advertising market. Each issue contains dozens of food pages and recipes.
• Recipes are now evenly split between New England standards, like planked shad, and flavors from further afield: Biscotti (1980), Beignets Souffles (1980), Challah (1982), Chalupas (1982).
• Sun-dried tomatoes make their first appearance in 1986 and remain popular for another decade.
• Pesto also enters the scene in a recipe for cherry tomatoes with pesto cream filling (1987) and a simple pesto sauce (1988). An entire article is devoted it in 1989, with ten recipes.
• Mousse is everywhere: Banana Mousse (1982),Chocolate Mousse Cake (1984), Salmon Mousse (1986), White Chocolate Mousse (1987).
• Sweet-savory combos, particularly of protein and fruit, are the height of sophistication:Honey Curried Chicken (1980), Maple Braised Pork Chops with Pineapple Mustard Relish (1981),Roast of Veal Stuffed with Prosciutto and Pistachios with Orange Sauce (1982), Poached Fillet of Salmon with Fresh Orange and Blueberry Sauce (1989).

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