Fall Weekend in North Conway, New Hampshire

High above the ground, my teenage son balances on a narrow ledge of granite. I watch from below at a belay station, where ropes and anchors protect me from taking a long fall. It’s midmorning and we are at Cathedral Ledge, a world-class rock-climbing destination, whose sheer 700-foot granite cliff juts up from the floor of the Mount Washington Valley. Years earlier, in my 20s, I spent many weekends exploring this iconic crag and much of the rest of the White Mountains region. While the cracks in the gray rock feel familiar to me, it’s my son’s first time on the ascent; we both can feel the exhilaration as he climbs higher. But even as I urge him upward, I’m already thinking about how good a comfortable bed and a hot tub will feel at the end of the day.

Cathedral Ledge sits on the west side of the Mount Washington Valley, with commanding views of the Saco River and open farmland and offering a sweeping panorama of the surrounding peaks, which are currently foliage-spattered in oranges and reds and yellows. The area’s main highway, Route 16, threads right through the village of North Conway, New Hampshire, whose year-round community of just 2,000 people welcomes more than a million visitors each fall.

Yet for many, North Conway is simply a place to rest one’s head for the night or grab a bargain at the outlet shops before continuing north. It’s a habit with deep roots: For nearly a century before the first tavern opened here in 1765, European explorers passed through on their way to Mount Washington, the tallest peak in the Northeast.

Instead of following the trail of traffic onward, I wondered if, in one weekend, we could find adventure, natural beauty, and creature comforts all within the town limits.

The answer, it turned out, was a resounding yes.

In recent years, a wave of young entrepreneurs has quietly revitalized what North Conway has to offer. Among them are climbing guides Paul and Lisa McCoy, who in 2022 bought the International Mountain Climbing School from its legendary founders, Rick Wilcox and Bradley White. They’ve added a modern-day sensibility to the business without abandoning the local mountaineering community that built the school’s reputation.

Others, like Alec Tarberry, have even grander ambitions. A valley native whose family owns a collection of downtown buildings, including the historic Eastern Slope Inn Resort, Tarberry was 12 when he started working for his father. Today, as president of the Berry Companies, he’s overseen the transformation of a former ski shop into Norcross Place, a cluster of restaurants and bars distinguished by bright red sunshades over the sidewalk seating.

This turned out to be the perfect spot for us to start our downtown exploring. We refueled with grilled cheeses at Cheese Louise, where co-owners Bryce Harrison, James Gaudreault, and Ian Lubkin turned a successful food truck into a brick-and-mortar operation, replete with a s’mores firepit and a take-out beer window. The neighboring Saco River Brewing Taphaus tempts passersby with pizza and pub fare along with a pint of Lazy River IPA, say, or Old Course Porter. But instead I opted for a sparkling cocktail from the bar next door at Sap House Meadery. The honey-based alcohol is fermented just south of the valley in Ossipee, where the team infuses it with seasonal fruit, herbs, and botanicals.

Fortified, we turned to the shops. Downtown’s independent stores alone are worth the stroll: homemade spices and regional foods at Zeb’s, handcrafted leather goods at Beggar’s Pouch Leather, candles and botanical-inspired gifts at Poppy & Vale, a treasure trove of local history and guidebooks at White Birch Books, and pottery and other handmade wares at the League of NH Craftsmen Fine Craft Gallery. Just south of the Main Street scene, meanwhile, sits Settlers Green Outlet Village, where more than 60 national brands—Cotopaxi, Banana Republic, New Balance, et al.—keep deal hunters coming back year-round.

After scoring a pair of trail runners from the Merrell outlet, we met up with friends for a bike ride in Whitaker Woods, where more than 25 miles of trails loop through a densely shaded 171-acre town-owned parcel just a few blocks from Main Street. Leaves shimmered in the sun like gold coins. With more time, we could have continued on to the Mount Washington Valley Recreation Path, which runs for nearly three miles to Settlers Green.

But dinner, a comfortable bed, and that much-anticipated hot tub awaited at the White Mountain Hotel & Resort. Tucked at the base of the area’s other famed climbing destination, White Horse Ledge, the 80-room hotel has been base camp for adventurers since it opened in 1990. Today the family-owned property offers a nine-hole golf course, heated outdoor pool, fitness center, and pickleball courts—enough for guests to fill a weekend without ever leaving the grounds.

While our schedule didn’t allow us enough time to dink and volley, we did manage an unhurried stretch for a three-course dinner at the hotel’s Ledges Restaurant. The charcuterie, locally grown greens, salmon, and house-made desserts were delicious, but the best reward was the view out the panoramic windows.

As day two dawned, we were up early for our much-anticipated excursion on the Conway Scenic Railroad’s Valley Train. After taking our seats in the historic 1898 Pullman car, we spent the next hour trundling through the heart of the valley and along the Saco River, all the while getting a spectacular front-row seat to the region’s fall color.

Later that afternoon we were on the move again. This time it was at Cranmore Mountain Resort, a family-friendly ski destination that puts out the welcome mat year-round with its Adventure Park. Folks looking to relax gravitated to the patio’s Adirondack chairs, while others lined up for the scenic lift rides, mountain coaster, giant swing, Soaring Eagle zip line, and mountain bike park.

My son wore a frown as we joined the slowly moving line for the mountain coaster and took our seats in the cart. Then we crested the hill and gravity took over, sending us down through open meadow and birch forests while yellow leaves fell like confetti. The teenage scowl disappeared, replaced by a wide grin.

The smiles continued deep into the day as we arrived atop Cranmore Mountain via the ski lift. Before us spread a canopy of color and nearby peaks, including Mount Washington. White Horse and Cathedral ledges glowed from across the valley. Below us, North Conway moved at its familiar autumn pace: hikers unloading from cars, leaf peepers drifting down Main Street, the train on its last run of the day. My son was already talking about coming back. I was already thinking about another hot tub.

Fall Weekend in North Conway: The Guide

Things to Do in North Conway

Conway Scenic Railroad

Choose a short Valley Train excursion for younger or more restless passengers, or settle in for the four-hour Mountaineer ride.

Cranmore Mountain Resort

The resort’s Adventure Park offers plenty of non-ski, off-season fun for all ages and adventure levels. Plan to carve out at least half a day for your visit.

International Mountain Climbing School

A variety of packages for any experience level will put you on the famed Cathedral Ledges. Or, go beyond the valley with guided hikes and mountaineering on Mount Washington and the other Presidentials.

Main Street Shopping

Discover a colorful mix of independent and locally owned art galleries and shops including The Penguin Gallery, International Mountain Equipment, Kassa Flute Co., and the New England Ski Museum’s gift shop.

Mount Washington Valley Recreation Path

Opened in 2023, this accessible trail is well-loved by walkers, runners, and bicyclists. Insider’s tip: Jump on from the south end of the parking lot at Cranmore Mountain Resort.

New England Ski Museum

Interested in learning more about the area’s history of adventure? Then it’s a must-do to visit this branch of the highly rated sports museum, whose flagship location is in Franconia, New Hampshire.

Whitaker Woods

Owned by the town, this 171-acre expanse features a network of old logging roads and improved trails that are easily accessed from behind the former Fuller Elementary School on Pine Street.

North Conway Dining

Cheese Louise

A family favorite with kid-pleasing grilled sandwiches and, for the grown-ups, an array of craft beers on tap.

Craft NoCo

Tucked down an alleyway, this small cocktail bar with kitchen boasts an impressive list of signature cocktails and mocktails.

The Ledges

At the on-site restaurant for the White Mountain Hotel & Resort, the spectacular views make it worth a table reservation, no matter where you’re lodging.

Old Village Bakery

Breads, pastries, scones, muffins, and the best chocolate chip cookies—they’re all here in tasty abundance. Locals know to arrive early, or order online in advance.

Saco River Brewing Taphaus

At this outpost of the Fryeburg, Maine, original, you can grab a pint, nosh on pub fare, and enjoy the rooftop deck.

Sap House Meadery NoCo

Come for the drink offerings—especially the mead flight—but stay for the burgers and appetizers (try the sticky pig wings) or hearty entrées such as pasta and chicken potpie.

North Conway Lodging

Eastern Slope Inn Resort

The in-town location of this century-old property is a big plus. Accommodations include a variety of room styles, from studios to multibedroom suites, and a property-wide renovation centered on the inn’s outdoor spaces is in the works for 2027.

White Mountain Hotel & Resort

Rest and rejuvenate at this majestically sited resort at the foot of White Horse Ledge, with easy access to hiking and biking trails in addition to the on-site amenities.

This feature was originally published in the September/October 2026 issue of Yankee.

Katrina Farmer

Katrina Farmer is Yankee's associate editor. She enjoys supporting the editorial team by researching story ideas, answering queries, copyediting online content, and writing short articles. It is her goal to visit (and have a memorable experience in) all 67 counties in New England; she has five to go.

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