From Middle Eastern to Brazilian, these nine neighborhoods are the best spots for international eats in New England.
Red Rose in the Cambodia Town neighborhood in Lowell, MA
Photo Credit : Tony LuongExplore New England’s diverse culinary scene with a tour of its vibrant Gastro Hubs, featuring everything from Thai street food in Downtown Portland to authentic Portuguese flavors in Fall River.
1. THAI: Downtown Portland, ME
Portland has the best Thai food in New England, but that’s due not so much to a pattern of immigration as a constellation of talent. From street food and dumplings to crispy chicken, noodles, and curries, it’s an embarrassment of riches for a city this size. Just outside downtown, Saeng Thai House, Vientiane Market, and Mitr are also worth seeking out. Top stops: Boda, Crispy Gai, Dok Mali, Esaan, Green Elephant, Little Pig, Mi Sen, Mitr, Sabieng, Saeng Thai House, Thai Tree, Vientiane Market
2. PORTUGUESE: Columbia Street, Fall River, MA
Home to the largest concentration of Portuguese Americans in the U.S., Fall River has a food scene to match. Around Columbia Street you’ll find restaurants serving bacalhau (salt cod), grilled octopus, wine-marinated pork with littlenecks, and caldo verde. Bakeries turn out iconic pastéis de nata (custard tarts), massa sovada (sweet bread), and malasadas (doughnuts). Just on the other side of I-195, Portugalia Marketplace is an absolute must, with a dazzling array of Portuguese foods and a whole room devoted to salt cod. Top stops: BarCa, Barcelos Bakery, Caldeiras, Caravela, Europa Pastries, Lou’s Bakery, Michael’s Provision Co., Portugalia Marketplace, Sagres
3. CAMBODIAN: Cambodia Town, Lowell, MA
Lowell’s community of 20,000 Cambodian immigrants and Cambodian-American citizens supports a thriving food scene centered on Pailin Plaza that radiates out to include markets, restaurants, snack shops, and a Southeast Asian Water Festival every August that draws tens of thousands of visitors. If Cambodian food is unfamiliar to you, start with loc lac (marinated beef), kuy teav (noodle soup), and nom kong (Khmer donuts). Top stops: Heng Lay, Kao’s Kitchen, Le Petit Café, New Pailin Market, Peephuptmei, Phnom Penh, Red Rose, Simply Khmer, Yummy Express
4. PERUVIAN: Lower Eagle Hill, East Boston, MA & Chelsea, MA
East Boston’s Lower Eagle Hill neighborhood has the highest concentration of Peruvian gems, with Rincon Limeño and Pollos a la Brasa Beto’s leading the charge. But Chelsea also earns a spot on our list because it’s the home of Tambo 22, where chef Jose Duarte serves up excellent ceviches, lomo saltado (beef stir fry), and grilled trout with saffron butter. Top stops: Frio Rico, Pollos a la Brasa Beto’s, Rincon Limeño, Tambo 22, Tutti Frutti
5. MIDDLE EASTERN: Watertown & West Cambridge, MA
The draw here isn’t restaurant density but market density. Watertown has the third-largest Armenian population in the country, and while Armenia is not part of the Middle East, it shares many of its culinary traditions. At the four main markets—Arax, Sevan, Massis, and Eastern Lamejun—you’ll find shelves and refrigerated cases loaded with spices, pita, labneh, hummus, olives, dates, feta, and pastries. Nearby Sofra does superlative farm-to-table sweets and savories inspired by Middle Eastern flavors. Top stops: Arax Market, Eastern Lamejun Bakers, Fastachi, Fordee’s Falafel & Deli, Massis Bakery, Sevan Bakery, Sofra
6. CHINESE: Chinatown, Boston
This choice may seem obvious, but what’s remarkable is the vitality and variety to be found in a community that has survived for 150 years. From the modern fusion cooking and technicolor cocktails of Shojo to the stellar Peking duck at recent arrival Jiang Nan—not to mention any number of ramen, bubble tea, dim sum, and bakery spots—this beautiful corner of the city is worth exploring again and again. Top stops: Friendship BBQ, Hei La Moon, Ho Yuen Bakery, Jiang Nan, Nan Xiang Express, Peach Farm, Shojo, Taiwan Bakery, Taiwan Café, Winsor Dim Sum Café
7. ITALIAN: Federal Hill, Providence, RI
Begin your food crawl at DePasquale Square to take in the dolce vita vibes, followed by a walk through Venda Ravioli, where boxes of fresh pasta cry out to be consumed with the house-made bolognese, a shower of parmigiano, and thin slices of mortadella. After that, choosing a restaurant is tough. Camille’s has held court for 110 years, while Massimo serves a great carbonara in midcentury-modern digs and Costantino’s does wood-fired pizza. Be sure to end with sweet sfogliatelle from Scialo Brothers. Top stops: Angelo’s Civita Farnese, Camille’s, Caserta Pizzeria, Cassarino’s, Costantino’s, Massimo, Pane e Vino, Scialo Brothers Bakery, Venda Ravioli
8. WEST AFRICAN/AFRICAN DIASPORA: Nubian Square, Roxbury, MA
There’s a new energy in Nubian Square (formerly Dudley Square), long the center of Black culture in Boston—particularly with the opening of Nubian Markets, a combination grocery store, halal butchery, café, and community space. A short stroll through these streets will bring you the flavors of West Africa, Jamaica, Ethiopia, and the soul food of the American South. Top stops: Fasika Café, Maxine’s on Saint James, Nubian Markets, P&R, RedRed Kitchen, Slade’s Bar & Grill, Suya Joint
9. BRAZILIAN: The Hollow, Bridgeport, CT
About 20 percent of Connecticut’s Brazilian population lives in Bridgeport, and the epicenter can be found in this neighborhood northwest of downtown. Many restaurants are churrascarias, where charcoal-grilled meats are served alongside buffets loaded with pão de queijo (cheese rolls), feijoada (bean, beef, and pork stew), and salads—but save room for flan. Top stops: Don Raphael, Pantanal, Rancho Pantanal, Terra Brasilis
Amy Traverso is the senior food editor at Yankee magazine and co-host of the public television series Weekends with Yankee, a coproduction with WGBH. Previously, she was food editor at Boston magazine and an associate food editor at Sunset magazine. Her work has also been published in The Boston Globe, Saveur, and Travel & Leisure, and she has appeared on Hallmark Home & Family, The Martha Stewart Show, Throwdown with Bobby Flay, and Gordon Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares. Amy is the author of The Apple Lover’s Cookbook, which was a finalist for the Julia Child Award for best first-time author and won an IACP Cookbook Award in the “American” category.
More by Amy Traverso