Eggs | In Season

Eggs are the natural wonders of the kitchen. If that sounds like hyperbole, whip up a batch of popovers and watch their balloonlike elasticity as they inch up the pan. Or make homemade mayonnaise and observe how the yolks absorb oil like sponges, turning rich and creamy without a drop of cream. Egg whites make angel food cake as light as a cloud and give meringues their crisp-chewy texture and frothy structure. Egg yolks lend a silken thickness to custard and rich moistness to cakes. Even a perfect boiled egg, with its golden yolk, has a remarkable semi-solidity.

For many farmyard chickens in our northern climate, longer spring days restore them to full egg-laying capacity, so this is a great time to seek out a carton of local brown eggs or a mosaic of the pale blue, chocolate brown, and sand-colored eggs laid by heirloom breeds and sold in many farmers’ markets.

But a quick note on brown eggs. If you watched television in New England in the 1980s, the New England Brown Egg Council’s jingle—“Brown eggs are local eggs, and local eggs are fresh!”—probably lodged deep in your memory. And it’s true that, unlike in the rest of the country, the majority of eggs produced here are brown. The reason for this goes back to the days when Yankee clipper ships sailed around the globe, taking ice, ginseng, and fur as far afield as China, where they exchanged these local goods for tea, spices, and, among other treasures, chickens. These Chinese chickens were a source of eggs for the long voyage home, and the birds, which produced brown eggs, became the dominant breeds in New England. Locals grew accustomed to brown eggs and continued to breed chickens that produced them.

Whether you use brown, white, or blue eggs, the following recipes highlight the diversity and deliciousness of this incredible food.

	Sautéed Mushroom Breakfast Toasts Here, mushrooms are seared in a skillet and served for breakfast with a fried egg over toast.
	Shirred Eggs with Bacon Take simple shirred eggs to the next level with crisp bacon and a sprinkle of onions, peppers, and Parmesan for added texture and flavor.
	Cheese Strata Make this savory cheese strata bread pudding the night before serving, and you’ll be able to feed a crowd with ease.
	Shakshuka An Israeli spin on huevos rancheros, shakshuka is perfect for lovers of savory breakfasts.
	Dutch Baby with Ham and Cheese Topped with hunks of ham, melted Monterey Jack, Parmesan, and bright-green chives, this fluffy, oven-baked pancake was a specialty at the Sunnyside Diner in Warren, Rhode Island.
	Popovers With their crisp, golden shell and custardlike interior, popovers are the irresistible American sibling to the British Yorkshire pudding.
	Creamy Asparagus Quiche with Shallots and Mushrooms When planning a special brunch, you can’t beat this creamy asparagus quiche.
	Nectarines with Broiled Custard Like the classic French sabayon sauce, this custard is made with egg yolks, sugar, and a boozy liquid (in our case, a mix of apple cider or juice and rum or Madeira).
	Apple Custard Cake With the perfect mix of custardy top and tender interior, this apple custard cake is a deliciously sweet treat.
	Pavlova with Blueberries and Lime Curd Making a Pavlova takes some time and planning, but each step is simple, and your efforts will be rewarded with a showstopping dessert.
	Mexican Flan If the words custard and caramel sound intimidating, fear not: This creamy Mexican flan is as easy to make as a smoothie.