Even without the sparkling lure of the Atlantic at its doorstep, Maine’s Upper Midcoast would be a worthy foliage visit. Learn more, plus our picks for the area’s best scenic route, photo op, fun for kids, and where to eat and shop.
By Yankee Magazine
Aug 13 2018
Windjammers lend their timeless presence to the Camden waterfront.
Photo Credit : Mark FlemingAutumn on Penobscot Bay is a sailor’s delight, as cooler, drier winds chase away the clammy ocean fogs of summer. These same crisp breezes nip at the heels of warm-weather vacationers heading home, convinced that they’ve seen the Midcoast at its best—and that to stay any longer would require a much fleecier set of clothes. And it does. But it’s worth donning an extra layer to linger in this place where the mountains meet the sea, and to claim the procrastinator’s reward: elbow room and eye-popping color.
Even without the sparkling lure of the Atlantic at its doorstep, the region that rolls west from the bay to the St. George River would be a worthy foliage visit. Mostly farmland in the 1800s, it’s now 70 to 80 percent forested with everything from birches and aspens to maples, oaks, and beech. Catching fire in early fall, blueberry barrens contribute some brilliant reds, while Maine’s omnipresent evergreens provide a cool contrast to all. And an agrarian spirit still shines here, in small farms and creameries and even a handful of award-winning wineries (including the terrifically scenic Cellardoor in Lincolnville).
The call of the coastline, though, is impossible to resist—especially along the stretch of Route 1 that hugs the bay, linking the destination towns of Rockland, Rockport, and Camden with Belfast and Searsport to the north, now emptied of the summer throngs. You can stretch your legs wandering streets and waterfronts salted with history, or kick back at a seafood shack and claim some of the best lobster of the year. And when you see the season’s last day-sails and windjammer cruises swanning around against a backdrop of fiery leaves, you may even be tempted to cast off into the color yourself. —Jenn Johnson
Learn more in “Peak Perfection,” our guide to where to find peak foliage color in New England from mid-September until the end of October.Scenic Route Climb Mount Battie in Camden Hills State Park and—with Penobscot Bay spread out below—you will have achieved the literal pinnacle of Midcoast leaf peeping. maine.gov/dacf Photo Op Hike out onto Rockland’s nearly-mile-long breakwater for an uninterrupted view of the harbor and coastline, including the crown of Owls Head Light. rocklandharbor lights.orgRefueling Stop The Red Barn Baking Co. in Camden excels at oven-fresh breads, pastries, cookies, and, of course, whoopie pies—perfect for enjoying on a bench by the harbor. theredbarnmarketplace.comFun for Kids Find a tricky corn maze and a 20-foot-high hay pyramid—plus pumpkins, apples, and lots of homemade treats—at Beth’s Farm Market in Warren. bethsfarmmarket.comShopping Break An afternoon can easily slip away on Rockland’s Main Street, but do make time for the artistic, all-local wares at the Island Institute store, Archipelago. thearchipelago.net