Summer Weekend in Mystic Connecticut

It’s 50 paces from boutique wine shop Spencer & Lynn to Steamboat Wharf. A literal hop, skip—no jump required—and you’re boarding the two-masted schooner Argia with a bottle of Basque Country txakolina: slightly bubbly, a touch salty, perfect for sunset sipping on the water. “It tap-dances on your tongue,” one of the knowledgeable wine sellers noted, and, in the spirit of trust, you abandoned your Chardonnay comfort zone.

Soon, you’ll be helping the crew hoist sails or simply exhaling, scouting for osprey, and listening to tales of a lighthouse keeper’s singing daughter. The sheltered waters of Fishers Island Sound, which tickle three states’ shorelines, are tinted tangerine-pink, and you’re untethered from obligations and expectations. It’s the ideal mindset for embarking on a weekend in Mystic, Connecticut.

With a creative culinary scene that rivals that of bigger cities, plus renowned experiential attractions and enticing concentrations of artisan and independent shops, this former shipbuilding hub on the Mystic River offers a mighty list of must-dos. Step inside glassblower Jeffrey P’an’s kaleidoscopic gallery, though, and you’re reminded that life, like art, is elevated when the uncharted is allowed to unfold.

Let the winds of inspiration guide you, even at enduring headliners like Mystic Aquarium, which turns 50 next year, and Mystic Seaport Museum, which is two years from celebrating its 95th. At the aquarium, check for encounter programs before your photo op with New England’s only exhibited beluga whales, and you may leave with an abstract painting created for you by undulating stingrays—or with a deep desire to protect endangered creatures after listening, via stethoscope, to a penguin’s heartbeat.

Once you’ve explored the seaport’s re-created 19th-century village and landmark vessels like the restored 1841 whaling ship Charles W. Morgan, borrow a free boat and row, sail, or pedal the river that native Pequots named Missi-tuk for its tidal swells.

Be especially open-minded at mealtimes. You’ll want to hop into the long a.m. queue for Best Baker in America winner Adam Young’s intricate pastries at Sift. Pop into his Young Buns Doughnuts shop early, too, before the signature vanilla-streusel variety sells out. But also consider a detour to the hidden little waterside Nana’s Bakery & Pizza: At this new venture from beloved Mystic chef and fermentation trailblazer James Wayman, the hot sourdough cinnamon-sugar doughnuts taste like carnival fried dough that’s been granted a heavenly makeover. Wayman has also unintentionally fired a shot in Connecticut’s New Haven–centered pizza wars with his flavorfully chewy sourdough pies topped with local meats, vegetables, and wild-foraged mushrooms.

The bells of Union Baptist Church, which looms over downtown Mystic, chime away the hours at an increasingly urgent pace. Check off shopping for nautical rope accents made on-site at Mystic Knotwork, picking out manly gifts at Trove, and downing a waffle cone dripping with Mystic Drawbridge Ice Cream’s Seaport Salty Swirl. Maybe squeeze in a visit to Olde Mistick Village, where 30-plus niche retailers are tucked into a colonial New England–themed setting.

The ultimate draw of this coastal village, with its landmark bascule (or “seesaw”) drawbridge that impresses engineering geeks (and sometimes frustrates impatient motorists), is transcendent dining. Sit at the bar at the Shipwright’s Daughter and watch chef David Standridge, who earned two Michelin stars back in NYC, direct his kitchen with Spielberg-like attention to quality and artistry. He’s changing the way diners think about seafood and sustainability, inventing sublime recipes for anything and everything Josiah Dodge plucks from local waters with rod and reel—even oddball fish.

Summer’s most coveted tables are high up in the canopied Treehouse at Oyster Club. Course after course, you’ll be not just fed but moved by dishes that conjure the nurturing essence of dynamo chef Renee Touponce’s Puerto Rican and Italian upbringing. Her tuna chorizo, which shows up in house-made pasta dishes, is the delectable result of her passionate commitment to utilize every part of the fish. Just as the night air begins to cool, warm bites of almond brown butter cake will have you questioning whether life has ever tasted this good.

A stop at 10th-generation-owned Stone Acres Farm, just outside Mystic in Stonington, will ease the pang of departure. Stroll the grounds and maze-like gardens, then shop the farm stand for the same hand-harvested produce that’s grown for this region’s top chefs, plus local cheeses, mushrooms, breads, and other specialty foods. Making reservations for an upcoming farm dinner is a surefire cure for the “Goodbye, Mystic” blues.

Exploring Mystic, Connecticut

EAT & DRINK

Mystic Drawbridge Ice Cream: This cheery spot serves homemade ice cream and nostalgic soda fountain drinks beside its namesake landmark. mysticdrawbridgeicecream.com

Nana’s Bakery & Pizza: Don’t be misled by its out-of-the-way locale: Nana’s is one of Connecticut’s best new eateries. The made-to-order hot doughnuts are a revelation. nanasct.com

Oyster Club: From classics like roasted oysters and fish and chips to linguine with secret-recipe tuna chorizo, every dish (and every cocktail, too) is made with care and creativity at this farm-and-sea-to-table restaurant helmed by chef Renee Touponce. oysterclubct.com

Red 36: At this marina-side, indoor/outdoor restaurant with a yacht-life vibe, lobster sneaks its way not only into rolls, grilled cheese, and mac ’n’ cheese, but also Cobb salad and carbonara. red36ct.com

The Shipwright’s Daughter: Chef David Standridge left New York City for this “paradise” of fresh fish and farmed products, and he’s weaving uniquely local ingredients into some of Mystic’s most sophisticated dishes. shipwrightsdaughter.com

Sift Bake Shop: Indulge in sweet and savory treats and Mystic’s best coffee drinks, and return for cocktails and small plates at the bakery’s rooftop bar, Mix. siftbakeshopmystic.com

Young Buns Doughnuts: In addition to Sift and Mix, nationally known pastry chef Adam Young’s empire also includes this singularly focused storefront, which sells out of its sweet stock daily. youngbunsdoughnuts.com

STAY

Spicer Mansion: Pampering touches abound at the former summer home of Captain Elihu Spicer, restored to its 1853 grandeur and now an eight-room luxury boutique inn. spicermansion.com

The Whaler’s Inn: A hospitable bubble in the midst of energetic downtown, with 45 rooms tucked into five buildings. whalersinnmystic.com

PLAY

Argia Mystic Cruises: Set sail on a sunset or daytime voyage, and discover the storied islands and lighthouses just off the coast. Preorder a snack platter and souvenir wine glasses (BYOB) when you book. argiamystic.com

Mystic Seaport Museum: See traditional craftspeople at work, planetarium shows, and a maritime stew of exhibits including this summer’s “Story Boats: The Tales They Tell,” featuring small watercraft from this world-class attraction’s extensive collection. mysticseaport.org

Mystic Aquarium: Be awed by the diversity of marine life as you pose for pics with beluga whales, touch sharks and rays, and applaud the antics of sea lions. mysticaquarium.org

SHOP

Mystic Knotwork: Watch artisans at work preserving the sailors’ art of tying rope bracelets, pet toys, and home decor pieces. mysticknotwork.com

Olde Mistick Village: Snag souvenirs and gifts for every personality at nearly three dozen shops spanning kitchen gear to fantasy wizarding and witchcraft supplies. oldemistickvillage.com

Spencer & Lynn Wine & Spirit Merchants: Expert staff will introduce you to a curated selection of organic wines, beers, and spirits made by small producers from near and far. spencerandlynn.com

Stone Acres Farm: For fresh produce, cut flowers, and local specialty foods, visit the farm stand at this Stonington agricultural estate, which has been feeding the community since 1765. stoneacresfarm.com

Studio Jeffrey P’an: Admire contemporary blown glass sculptures and vessels, and observe the artist at work during the cooler-weather months. studiojeffreypan.com

Trove: Guys aren’t hard to shop for at this den of luxe casual menswear, grooming potions, books, and dad-joke-inspired gifts. trovemystic.com