These six destination towns prove warmth is where you find it, both outside and indoors.
By Ian Aldrich
Jan 17 2022
Salisbury, Connecticut | Best Winter Town in Every New England State
Photo Credit : Anne DayNew England is chock-full of prime winter destinations. But some places — because of the recreational opportunities, because of the scenery, because of the tourism infrastructure — rise above the pack. And within each state in New England, there’s that one special winter place that snow-obsessed travelers return to again and again. Which are the best? Read on for our selection of the best winter towns in each New England state.
There’s a reason we named Stowe the best winter town in New England. And that’s because this central Vermont community is truly a winter escape that’s accessible to all. Home to the most celebrated winter carnival in New England, it embraces whatever comes its way from the first snowfall onward.
Stowe Mountain Lodge has the feel of a Jackson Hole ski lodge, especially when you enter the lobby with its towering two-story-high ceiling. But it’s pure Vermont, down to the native birch twisting around the columns and Lake Champlain marble on the stairs to the après-ski bar, Hourglass. The staff here has been on a serious building spree since the resort’s inception, creating a performing arts center, 36 holes of golf, a spa with a heated outdoor pool in winter that rewards you with views of the mountain, and a skating rink that’s open to experts and newbies alike.
This sudden burst of growth seems like a shot of adrenaline to other noteworthy hoteliers in town. Topnotch Resort, known for its large spa, lap pool, and tennis courts, has refurbished all of its rooms and transformed its restaurants. Trapp Family Lodge has added a brewery that makes a wonderful lager reminiscent of the founders’ Austrian roots. Edson Hill has tastefully decorated all of its rooms and added a cozy bar downstairs from its acclaimed restaurant.
Restaurants options also abound, from the casual, free-flowing fare at Bistro at Ten Acres Lodge to the California-inspired cuisine at Plate to the local-centric flair that defines Michael’s on the Hill.
Plus, Stowe is blessed with a wealth of backcountry routes that seem to connect all of the ski-touring centers in town, including the state-long Catamount Trail, the longest public ski trail in North America.
Whether it’s a week or just a weekend, a Stowe vacation won’t disappoint.
Long before Bethel boasted one of New England’s top ski resorts, Sunday River, it was a charming village with black-shuttered Victorian homes, the requisite village green and white steepled church, and a private boarding school, Gould Academy. Today, it’s still a very walkable, unpretentious town, a place filled with artists, ski bums, and academics who mingle over the sublime bibimbap at Cho Sun or the tasty osso bucco at 22 Broad Street.
Sunday River is famous for its snowmaking, its glorious wilderness panoramas from Jordan Bowl, and even more glades and expert terrain, thanks to a recent 50-acre expansion. The Mountain Explorer, a free shuttle, runs all day to get you from Bethel up to Sunday River. Bethel is also home to a second ski area, Mount Abram, known for its learn-to-ski program.
The cross-country skiing network here is the best in Maine, with close to 150 kilometers of trails when you combine Carter’s, the Nordic Ski Center at the Bethel Inn Resort, and the Outdoor Center at Sunday River. Snowmobilers head off into nearby White Mountain National Forest. Polly Mahoney and Kevin Slater, Registered Maine Guides and owners of Mahoosuc Guide Service, will happily take you on a half-day, full-day, or overnight dogsledding adventure. Another well-known Registered Maine Guide, Ron Fournier of Orion Outfitters, takes guests ice-fishing for large- and small-mouth bass, brookies and brown trout, and even salmon and northern pike.
After a day of adventure, the Bethel Inn Resort beckons with a soak in its heated outdoor pool and a meal in its classic dining room as the sun sets.
Blink and you’ll miss the turnoff on Route 16 to reach Jackson — and what a pity that would be. Venture through that covered bridge to enter another era, one where serenity and stirring scenery merge to create an ideal escape from modernity at any time of the year, but especially in the winter months. Jackson’s circular green, ringed by inns, antiques shops, and cafés, has been thriving as a resort town since the mid-19th century. But don’t expect any commercialism; that’s eight miles down the road in North Conway.
Jackson is also a gateway to Mount Washington and the Presidential Range. The panorama of peaks is mesmerizing — especially when you breathe in the pine scent and venture out to one of the numerous trails maintained by the Jackson Ski Touring Foundation. This nonprofit organization’s web of more than 150 kilometers leads cross-country skiers alongside a brook on the Ellis River Trail or high up into the mountains; optional programs include technique workshops and guided tours. Downhill skiers can head to Wildcat or family-friendly Black Mountain, the oldest lift-served ski area in New Hampshire, boasting a stunning vista of Mount Washington and the Presidentials.
Afterwards, most folks are content to head back to one of the area’s cozy country abodes, such as the Christmas Farm Inn and Eagle Mountain House, to warm up by a roaring fire, sip an après-ski cocktail, and get ready to dine on inspired cooking.
Massachusetts doesn’t suffer from a lack of places to frolic in the snow. There’s Hancock, for example, home to southern New England’s largest ski resort, Jiminy Peak, which caters to skiers of blacks, blues, and greens alike. But for those who want to tap into the coziness of the season, there’s no better stopping spot than Northampton.
Here, the warmth of winter living is on full display. Since 1981, visitors and locals have kept the chill in check with a drop-in at East Heaven, a Japanese-style bathhouse with outdoor hot tubs. Just blocks away, in the heart of the Smith College campus, the 19th-century Lyman Conservatory lets you shake off winter under a humid canopy of cacao, banana, and rubber trees in its kid-magnet Palm House, nicknamed “the Jungle Room.” Elsewhere in town, cozy bookstores meld heat, escapism, and — in the case of Raven Used Books — classical music to conjure a mini vacation from the chill.
The Hotel Northampton puts visitors in the heart of the action, which includes a constantly expanding dining scene. There’s The Roost, whose famous Rooster Rolls are stuffed with egg, bacon, avocado, or possibly whipped gorgonzola (earning props from the Food Network for “best breakfast between bread”). At Haymarket Café, contented vegetarians are squeezed in around postage stamp–size tables, as they have since 1991. Casual ethnic eateries abound, including Amanouz Café, serving bursts of Moroccan flavor. But if the best fresh bread in town is what you seek, Hungry Ghost Bread is your destination.
The vertigo-inducing ski jump at Satre Hill, in Salisbury, Connecticut, is a dizzying, 30-meter-long slope that has launched junior jumpers and Olympic hopefuls for more than 80 years. It brings shivers just standing at the bottom — exhilaration, too. It’s a reminder of days gone by, when thrills required skills — and not the bungee-jumping/zipline variety.
Sartre Hill says something about Salisbury, too. The all-volunteer Salisbury Winter Sports Association (SWSA) keeps the hill’s tradition alive. It’s a source of tremendous community pride, and more than 600 locals have donated funds to spruce it up. Parents volunteer, families forge bonds, and kids learn to fly. That it also happens to be tucked down an impossibly picturesque snowy road, not far from Salisbury’s Main Street, is just one more point for nostalgia.
Salisbury is pretty, the way you’d expect a historic town in the Litchfield Hills to be. Preserved farmland and expansive fields surround the township, incorporated in 1741, which includes the artist-packed village of Lakeville. The streets are filled with antique homes, just the right number of shops to supply the essentials, and a handful of restaurants and bakeries to feed the weekenders. Among the favorites: Sweet William’s, for early-morning cappuccinos and croissants, and Salisbury Breads, for rustic loaves. Off the beaten path (but make a reservation), The Woodland is a favorite sushi-chic hot spot.
This favorite summer spot also doubles as one of New England’s prettiest winter villages. Surfers take to the ocean throughout the year, with winter being perhaps the best season of all (assuming, of course, you have brought the right wet suit and are willing to brave the cold temperatures). Elsewhere, Instagram-friendly winter scenes abound. Scarborough Beach is a stunning walk, while a drive on Ocean Road, which runs along the sea through the arches of the Towers, the lone remaining artifact from a Gilded Age casino that burned decades ago, is a must.
No burger is too crazy — even ostrich or buffalo, sometimes — at Crazy Burger, a rollicking little place that also offers smoothies and vegan dishes. Around the corner, the Bike Stop Café serves up wood-fired pizzas and makes fresh tuna or salmon tacos so juicy they’ll overwhelm your napkin. But for the best view in town, head to the 1880s Coast Guard House Restaurant, which puts the ocean at your feet and offers up a seafood-centric menu.
City meets seashore at The Break, a recently opened 16-room boutique hotel with beach-cottage style and big-time amenities, such as in-room fireplaces and a saltwater pool that’s open year-round. Make sure one of your evenings includes savoring chef Basil Yu’s tantalizing fare at Chair 5.
Ian Aldrich is the Senior Features Editor at Yankee magazine, where he has worked for more for nearly two decades. As the magazine’s staff feature writer, he writes stories that delve deep into issues facing communities throughout New England. In 2019 he received gold in the reporting category at the annual City-Regional Magazine conference for his story on New England’s opioid crisis. Ian’s work has been recognized by both the Best American Sports and Best American Travel Writing anthologies. He lives with his family in Dublin, New Hampshire.
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