Best of Maine | 2019 Editors’ Choice Awards

Planning a Maine vacation, day trip, or getaway? From dining and lodging to attractions that are well worth the drive, here are 30 picks from our editors for the best of Maine.

BEST OF MAINE 2019: DINING

BAKERY, SWEETS Two Fat Cats Bakery, Portland

The iconic pies of the Pine Tree State couldn’t be more different. Maine blueberry pie celebrates the tart juiciness of wild blueberries as it bubbles through the slits of a flaky crust. At the other end of the wholesomeness spectrum, the whoopie pie cements together two slightly rounded cocoa sponges with a sugary “creme” that soothes your inner child by satisfying even the most extreme sweet tooth. Two Fat Cats does them both to perfection. 207-347-5144

BRUNCH Ondine, Belfast

Chef Evan Mallett emerged as a champion of locavore cuisine at the Black Trumpet in Portsmouth, New Hampshire. When it came time to open a second restaurant, he planted Ondine in Belfast, Midcoast Maine’s ground zero for farms and fishermen. During warm weather, he augments dinners with a great à la carte Sunday brunch (the free-range eggs and braised greens on polenta are worth the trip alone). A can’t-miss brunch pairing here? Maine oysters with a mimosa. 207-338-3318

DELI Rose Foods, Portland

The Back Cove location doesn’t deter those with a jones for authentic New York deli fare. Rose does a booming lunch business with corned beef or egg salad on house-baked caraway-seeded rye, while couples often gravitate to the “Fishermen’s Feast for 2,” which gathers all the house-cured fishes (including lox cured with pastrami spices) onto a single platter with pickles, onions, capers, cream cheese, and fresh golden bagels. In a nod to bubbes everywhere, one dining room wall is papered with a recherché rose pattern. 207-835-0991

DINER Palace Diner, Biddeford

The Palace proves that everything old can be new again if you’re true to your roots. Built in 1927, this 15-seat Pollard diner served generations of Biddeford mill workers; now it feeds discerning foodies. Co-owners Greg Mitchell and Chad Conley understand the appeal of the honest, uncomplicated comfort food that made diners iconic. Their now-famous tuna melt has the perfect angled slab of iceberg lettuce with tuna salad on grilled eggy challah bread, showing that top-quality ingredients trump fussy flourishes. 207-284-0015

FRIED CLAMS Bob’s Clam Hut, Portland

A roadside staple in Kittery since 1956, Bob’s built its fame on two styles of fried clams: “Bob’s,” which are dipped in a mix of unseasoned flours and fried to light crispness, and “Lillian’s,” which make two passes through the flours with an egg wash in between, creating a crunchier clam. The double-barreled magic has transplanted perfectly to Portland’s East End. The glass-walled modernist box that houses the restaurant is an urban analog to the funky roadside original, complete with picnic tables. 207-536-7608

ICE CREAM Smiling Hill Farm, Westbrook

Few ice cream destinations offer kids as much fun as Smiling Hill. A pioneer of cow-to-cone farmstead ice cream, this 12th-generation family farm makes a bevy of traditional and novelty flavors using the milk from its Holstein herd. In all, more than 40 types are on tap, including the very New England-y Indian pudding. Enjoy a cone at the picnic tables overlooking rolling pastures and the big red milking barn, then spring for a visit to the Barnyard, where small fry can meet llamas and alpacas, and pet baby goats. 207-775-4818

NEW RESTAURANT Elda, Biddeford

Nearly a decade after scoring national attention (and a slew of James Beard Award nominations) for his work at Forage in Salt Lake City, chef Bowman Brown has made himself at home on Biddeford’s Main Street. Portland foodies will drive the extra half hour to get here, because Brown goes the extra mile to rethink Maine seafood: a local oyster graced with buttermilk snow and lemon oil, smoked monkfish with meltingly soft caramelized cabbage, kimchi-marinated mussels. From his old-fashioned pickling of vegetables (including sea veggies) to his unrestrained use of open flame, Brown packs his plates with a symphony of strong flavors. Maine’s next great chef has arrived. 207-494-8365

SPECIAL-OCCASION SPLURGE Natalie’s, Camden Harbour Inn, Camden

The dining room has the elegant design hallmarks of an upscale Parisian bistro, but the sweeping view of mast-filled Camden harbor definitely anchors this night out in Maine. And the menu makes the best of the state’s signature luxe ingredient. If you think the only thing to do with Maine lobster is to dip the meat in butter, consider coconut-lobster bisque graced with a pickled pepper or a lobster salad with crunchy jicama and spicy nasturtium leaves. Either or both could show up on the legendary five-course lobster tasting menu. Co-chefs Shelby Stevens and Chris Long build seasonal menus around superb local ingredients such as foraged spruce tips, vegetables and herbs from the inn’s gardens, and fish off their neighbors’ boats. 207-236-7008

UPSCALE LOBSTER ROLL Pearl Kennebunk Beach and Spat Oyster Cellar, Kennebunk

Idyllic childhood summers in Kennebunkport, complete with shore dinners, inspired Rebecca Charles to open Pearl Oyster Bar in New York’s Greenwich Village. Recently, she came full circle back to Kennebunk with this polished Maine seafood venue. The lobster roll ingredients are no secret—she published them years ago. But the devil is in the details: how much lemon to add to the Hellmann’s, how to cook the lobster to the perfect texture, how long to grill the bun with how much butter. It’s an art, and she’s an artist. 207-204-0860

WATERFRONT DINING Terrace Grille, Bar Harbor Inn, Bar Harbor

The front-lawn tables at the casual Terrace Grille have the best setting in Bar Harbor. They provide sweeping views of the maritime comings and goings on Frenchman Bay. The Maine lobster stew in sherry cream served in a hollow of bread is a summer favorite—though many diners opt for the full lobster bake with potatoes, corn on the cob, and blueberry pie. No reservations are accepted, so go early for drinks and stay to dine. 207-288-3351

BEST OF MAINE 2019: LODGING

B&B Captain Fairfield Inn, Kennebunkport

With its high ceilings and strong Yankee lines, this 1813 sea captain’s mansion has always been one of the most gracious lodging choices in Kennebunkport. New owners have deftly modernized it with clean-lined furniture, saturated colors, and a lively interplay of patterns. (Eight of the nine rooms feature gas fireplaces, too.) A tapas-style breakfast of sweet and savory small plates will fortify you for the beach or for shopping around Dock Square, a five-minute walk away. 207-967-4454

CAMPGROUND Sebago Lake State Park, Casco

It’s surprising that with a depth of 316 feet and a surface area of more than 45 square miles, Sebago Lake doesn’t have its own mythical sea monster. What it does have, though, are resident populations of landlocked salmon and lake trout, more than 100 miles of shoreline, and this 1,400-acre campground, now in its ninth decade, revered by the families who return year after year to the 250 wooded sites set back from the water. Hiking trails crisscross the surrounding woods, but most campers come to swim and bask in the piney surroundings. 207-693-6613

ECO-FRIENDLY LODGING The Chadwick, Portland

Here’s proof that a light environmental footprint can go hand in hand with creature comforts. When you’re luxuriating on the comfortable mattresses or feasting at breakfast on the signature lobster eggs Benedict, you’d never give a thought to the Chadwick’s staunchly green philosophy. The B&B composts all organic materials, uses low-energy LEDs, avoids printed communications, and is equipped with low-flow toilets, showerheads, and sinks. The Gilchrist & Soames body products even help support honeybee research—proof that doing good can also feel good. 207-774-5141

HISTORIC VIBE Higgins Beach Inn, Scarborough

For nearly a century, this voluminous white-shingled inn has quietly reigned over the tranquil Higgins Beach summer community. From the crest of a small rise, the property looks one block down Ocean Avenue to the broad seaside light overspreading the sandy curl of Higgins Beach. New owners didn’t fix what wasn’t broken, keeping the timeless simplicity of the 23 bright rooms with their simple beds and wicker chairs. The biggest nod to modernity was to stain the wood-paneled walls to match the painted plaster and to update the bathrooms. As at many traditional beach hotels, most rooms here are compact, but there are a handful of spacious suites suitable for family getaways. 207-883-6684

KID-FRIENDLY LODGING Lafayette’s Oceanfront Resort, Wells

Rolling surf and squawking gulls may muffle the joyful squeals of children running down the mile-plus strand of Wells Beach, but that doesn’t mean they’re not having fun. This compound of motor inns and cottages dominates the beach end of Mile Road, which means guests step out their doors to the beach instead of hiking down from the other side of the marsh. Cottages and some motel efficiency units have kitchens for preparing family meals. For large family gatherings, some units can sleep up to 10 in multiple bedrooms. But the point of staying here is to enjoy the kid-friendly beach, where gentle waves and gradual flats just below the resort make good, safe swimming for beginners. 207-646-2831

MOUNTAIN GETAWAY Kawanhee Inn, Weld

The woodsy environs around mountain-ringed Webb Lake leave no doubt as to why Maine calls itself the Pine Tree State. The forest supplied the timber to build the inn and accompanying cabins as staff housing for a nearby summer boys’ camp. Now the log-and-shingle structures, pine-paneled rooms, and massive stone fireplaces bring the mountain-lake summer camp experience to all. Staffers provide trail maps for hiking Mount Blue and Tumbledown Mountain, where a technical rock climbing trail is one option for the ascent. There are no classes in weaving gimp lanyards anymore, but the inn does loan canoes and kayaks. 207-585-2000

NEW HOTEL The Francis, Portland

Originally a private home, this 1881 West End mansion stood abandoned for a decade before the current owners rescued and restored the property to create one of Portland’s most appealing lodgings. Vintage stained glass, a tiled fireplace in the parlor, and floors with striking inlaid patterns provide the historic framework for contemporary decor in muted grays and tans. A second-story spa enhances that low-key serenity with a choice of massages and full-body scrubs. 207-772-7485

PET-FRIENDLY LODGING Grand Harbor Inn, Camden

Fido need not stay home when you check into the only waterfront lodging on Camden’s yacht-filled harbor. The luxury hotel extends an “open paws” welcome for canine traveling companions in five of the 10 guest rooms and suites. There’s a maximum of two dogs per room, but no size limitation. You get the private balcony, Jacuzzi tub, and gas fireplace. Your best friend gets food and water bowls, a fleece-lined doggie bed, biscuit treats, and a welcoming scratch behind the ears. 207-230-7177

WALK-TO-EVERYTHING LODGING Acadia Hotel, Bar Harbor

Driving through the narrow streets of Bar Harbor can be exasperating—and unnecessary, if you opt to settle in at the Acadia Hotel on the town green. It’s steps from the Shore Path, close to most of the restaurants and shops, and about two blocks from the pick-up spot for Acadia National Park tours. The modern, simple guest rooms are modestly priced, and the hotel has loaner bicycles available for getting anywhere you don’t want to walk to. 207-288-5721 or 888-876-2463

WATERFRONT LODGING Grey Havens Inn, Georgetown

Every guest room but one has a partial or full ocean view in this marvelously old-fashioned shingle-style inn situated just down the road from the beaches of Reid State Park. If you can’t get enough of that view, splurge on an overnight in one of the turret rooms for a 270-degree panorama of sea and shore. The inn faces east for fantastic sunrises. White rockers on the long front porch are tailor-made for rhythmic rocking and reading or just watching the lobster boats come and go. 207-371-2616

BEST OF MAINE 2019: ATTRACTIONS

ART-HOUSE MOVIE THEATER Railroad Square Cinema, Waterville

Having celebrated its 40th birthday in 2018, the Railroad Square Cinema is a true comeback tale: After burning to the ground in 1994, it was rebuilt and reopened the following year thanks to the dedication of its founders and the local community. Then in 2012 it was bought by the Maine Film Center, the nonprofit parent organization of the Maine International Film Festival, which has been based at Railroad Square since its launch in 1998. In its weekly schedule the three-screen theater mixes first-run independent and international films with classics of world cinema, and serves up what it calls “the best popcorn in the known universe.” 207-873-6526

BEACH Mile Beach at Reid State Park, Georgetown

Mile Beach is a rarity on the Maine coast: a long sandy beach backed by dunes instead of marshes. Stretching between Griffith Head (where you find the main parking, concessions, and rest rooms) and Todd’s Point, Mile displays a pristine majesty when viewed from atop its high dunes. Currents change with the season, sometimes creating sand bar lagoons good for warm, shallow swimming. But when the wind whips up, there are also several curling breaks for surfers. 207-371-2303

BOOKSTORE Print, Portland

True indie bookstores have become nearly as rare as phone booths, but a few brave souls keep opening these shrines to the literary life. Along with best-sellers and general fiction, Print champions Maine authors, poetry, small presses, and young adult literature. It also hosts myriad readings, signings, and book discussions. Richard Russo novels account for about three feet of the Maine shelves—natural enough, given that daughter Emily is a co-owner here. 207-536-4778

BREWERY EXPERIENCE Allagash Brewing Company’s Grand Cru Tour, Portland

Beer geeks lust after the kind of experience offered on the Grand Cru Tour, but only a dozen are allowed on each three-hour sojourn. Go behind the scenes to see brewing, aging, and bottling. Each tour differs but count on barrel tastings, samples of rare beers, and a visit to the “coolship,” where wild yeasts kick off the lambics. A member of the tech staff pops in on every tour. You’ll glean inside trade information—but not the name of the secret spice in Allagash White. All proceeds go to local charities. Reservations essential. 207-878-5385

HISTORICAL EXPERIENCE Sabbathday Lake Shaker Village, New Gloucester

Few places embody the term “living history” as beautifully as this final active Shaker community. For 225 years, members of the United Society of Believers in Christ’s Second Appearing have eked out a living on this western Maine farm. A “Friends” group helps the remaining two Shakers with farm chores, runs the store that sells Shaker seeds and wool, and gives tours that provide a poignant and palpable feeling for Shaker life. 207-926-4597

KID-FRIENDLY ATTRACTION Maine Wildlife Park, Gray

It’s hard to know whether to look first at the majestic moose browsing on alders or the playful black bears splashing around their water feature. The big cats—bobcats, lynx, and cougars—alternately den up or lounge on elevated platforms in this Department of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife sanctuary for animals unable to live in the wild. Patient youngsters might count as many as 30 species, most native to the Maine woods, in an afternoon. Pack a lunch to enjoy at a picnic table on the parklike grounds. 207-657-4977

MADE-IN-MAINE SHOP Archipelago, Rockland

Whether crafting birdhouses that resemble lobster buoys or knitting baby booties modeled on the L.L. Bean duck boot, Maine’s artisans are a creative lot. This shop, associated with the Island Institute, gathers the work of more than 200 makers who live on the state’s islands and in remote coastal communities. There’s no better place to find the perfect memento of Maine. For a real treat, invest in a Swans Island blanket. 207-596-0701

NEW CULTURAL ATTRACTION “Into the Lantern” Exhibit, Maine Maritime Museum, Bath

At night, a mariner lives by two rhythms: the lapping of waves on the hull and the periodic winking of the lighthouses that triangulate the boat’s location. This new permanent exhibit at the Maine Maritime Museum—which is already a sprawling showcase of local seafaring heritage situated on 20 acres on the Kennebec River—captures the experience of the Cape Elizabeth Two Lights lantern room as its beacon brings sailors home. Video projections simulate the ever-changing ocean, while the centerpiece of the exhibit is the original second-order Fresnel lens that magnified and concentrated a lantern so it could be seen far out to sea. 207-443-1316

PADDLING ADVENTURE Maine Island Kayaking Tours, Peaks Island, Portland

If you’re itching to go beyond simple float-toy kayaks to maneuver a true sea kayak in gentle surf and find soft landing spots on rocky shores, these half- and full-day tours should be right up your alley. Athletic beginners are also welcome to join the explorations of the Casco Bay archipelago, which begin at Kayak Beach next to the island ferry dock. Two-hour sunset tours reveal a glowing city skyline hard to see from any other vantage. 207-420-0333

THRILL RIDE Sea Viper at Palace Playland, Old Orchard Beach

Palace Playland, New England’s only beachfront amusement park, has boasted several roller coasters since it first opened in 1902. The compact footprint, however, constrains the size of thrill rides. By rising twice as high, to a height of more than 70 feet, the Italian-designed $4 million Sea Viper packs more than a quarter mile of track into the space once occupied by the slower Galaxi. Real speed is only a little over 40 mph, but riders’ screams attest that it’s plenty fast enough. 207-934-2001

SEE MORE: Top 10 Maine Summer Events of 2019 Best of New England | 2019 Editors’ Choice Awards

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