Spring Weekend in Provincetown, Massachusetts

Though Provincetown, Massachusetts, is known as a summer place, spring may be its finest time. In the absence of the July rush that defines this seaside town, you will find an accessible and—dare we say—quiet Cape community. Not everything is open, but enough is. That means a last-minute Saturday-night table at a place like the Lobster Pot is an option, as is strolling long, isolated stretches of sand at some of the best beaches in the country. Downtown galleries have emerged from their winter slumber. Even the parking is free.

Long before the more northern towns have seen a single crocus, Provincetown is awash in blossoms and greening lawns. It’s ride-your-bike, sit-out-on-the-deck, smell-fresh-cut-grass, order-an-iced-coffee weather.

In the first weeks of April, that all sounds pretty good.

FRIDAY

Come early and get grounded in your surroundings by, well, getting off the ground. Situated on the curled “hand” of the arm-shaped Cape Cod, Provincetown is best viewed from atop the Pilgrim Monument & Provincetown Museum. The property’s signature building is the tallest allowable structure in the area and features a network of 60 ramps and 116 stairs that gets visitors more than 200 feet closer to the sky.

Make time for the museum, too, where items such as a giant finback whale jawbone, a century-old fire pumper, and Wampanoag artifacts flesh out the region’s history. It’s a story that continues to evolve: In 2020 the museum overhauled an entire wing of exhibition space to create a more complete accounting of the devastation that colonialism inflicted on indigenous peoples. The story panels and video reenactments don’t pull any punches, inviting visitors to linger longer than they may have intended.

Even in early spring, Provincetown has lodging options, nearly all offering deep discounts at this time of year. For instance, at nearly half off summer prices, you can drop anchor at the Lands End Inn: From its hilltop on the edge of town, this shingle-style 18-room mansion has long welcomed guests who want to be near both downtown and the Cape Cod National Seashore. The inn’s many decks and lookouts offer views of the sea, two lighthouses, and, on a clear day, whales feeding offshore.

With your bags unpacked, it’s time to explore a town made for both walking and bicycling. Opened in 2000, Gale Force Bikes sits on the edge of Provincetown’s lone remaining piece of farmland, where current owners Jeff Epstein and Dany Soucy offer a little bit of everything: rentals, tune-ups, gear, even made-to-order sandwiches.

For dinner, head to The Mews, an on-the-water eatery whose menu showcases seafood and vegan dishes, as well as a robust lineup of house cocktails. End the day with the short journey to Race Point Beach to watch an over-the-ocean sunset that might just top anything you’ll see in the Northeast.

SATURDAY

The Lands End Inn serves a generous continental breakfast, but for something that packs more of a morning punch, head over to Liz’s Café, Anybody’s Bar, for big omelets, bigger Benedicts, and slabs of French toast served with pure maple syrup.

You’ll never find consensus on the most beautiful section of the Cape Cod National Seashore, which spans nearly 40 miles of untouched coastline from Chatham to Provincetown, but a strong case can be made for the 3,000-acre northern tip known as Province Lands, a dune-filled reserve that has long been the muse for artists.

You can explore the terrain on your own—by pedaling the nearly six-mile Province Lands Bike Trail or walking the 2.4-mile Dune Shack Trail, for example—but the most entertaining and complete portrait of the landscape comes via Art’s Dune Tours. What began in 1946, when Provincetown native Art Costa fired up his Ford Woody to offer tours of the Outer Beach, has become a bucket-list adventure. Art’s son, Rob, now runs the business, and over the years he’s expanded the operation. There are sunset and lighthouse tours, a sunrise trip geared to photographers, and another outing by sailboat.

Back in town, grab lunch at Far Land Provisions, an upscale grocery whose homemade sandwiches sport locally inspired names (Hatches Harbor, Pilgrim Lake, Head of the Meadow) and are a challenge to finish.

Now it’s time to stroll Commercial Street. Provincetown’s creative bona fides were birthed in 1899, when painter Charles Hawthorne opened his Cape Cod School of Art. Generations of artists followed in search of the spirit Hawthorne inspired, as well as the region’s famous light. Today, local work hangs in each of Province-town’s municipal buildings, and the population of galleries that line the eastern side of Commercial Street are a testament to the quality of artists who’ve made P-town their home.

You’ll find no better deep dive into this continuing story than at the Provincetown Art Association and Museum. Established in 1914, PAAM is one of the country’s great small art museums. High-ceilinged galleries feature a rotating lineup of more than 3,000 works, including the second-largest collection of Edward and Josephine Hopper artwork in the world.

Even as Provincetown’s fishing scene has quieted over the decades, its relationship to the sea remains vibrant. Fishing charters and whale-watch boats make their berths at MacMillan Wharf, and later this year the pier will be home to the new Shark Center Provincetown, with interactive exhibits, videos, and displays that detail local research on great white sharks. Shark tours will also be offered.

The discoveries are a little less defined at Marine Specialties, which has to be in the running for the most unusual gift shop in New England. Opened in 1961, when Bob Patrick and Elizabeth “Ghee” Livingstone Patrick turned their successful marine catalog into a store, the shop’s evolution over the past six decades has tracked the changing flavor of its hometown. You can still pick up rope, anchors, knives, and other gear, but the inventory also includes leather jackets, feather boas, and vintage prom dresses. In one section there’s a healthy collection of beads and shells; on an opposite wall, an array of old license plates.

Come dinnertime, the seafood options at Tin Pan Alley include the Taste of Cape Cod (fish and chips, clam chowder, and lobster roll), but if you want to go full tourist, look for the Lobster Pot’s famous neon sign. The seafood menu here is gargantuan, as is the legacy of this on-the-harbor eatery, which launched the restaurant career of Anthony Bourdain in 1972.

Even in the early shoulder season, Provincetown still boasts a fun nightlife scene. Check out some of the haunts that have established the town’s after-hours popularity, such as the Crown & Anchor, an oceanfront hotel famed for its different LGBTQ bars and clubs, and the Pilgrim House, which offers a full schedule of cabaret and comedy.

SUNDAY

After a hot mug and a pastry at Joe Coffee, you’re ready to tackle one more local favorite: walking the Causeway. Nestled just below the Lands End Inn, this mile-long boulder walk is subject to the tide and weather. Time it right, though, and it’s one of the Cape’s most spectacular strolls, evoking a sense that you’re almost walking on the water. Expect to spy hermit crabs and starfish, and, in the not-too-far distance, seals splashing in the waves.

Then there’s the payoff: an isolated beach, unrivaled views of the harbor and Cape Cod Bay, and a pleasant trek to Long Point Light Station. Don’t head home just yet. Take off your shoes and feel the sand beneath your feet. Spring has finally sprung.