You may not think of Martha’s Vineyard as a winter getaway, but you should. In early February, my wife, Grace, and I escaped the New Hampshire winter for a weekend in Edgartown, Massachusetts. It wasn’t the kind of island retreat most often thought of when the snow flies. But it suited us just fine. The […]
You may not think of Martha’s Vineyard as a winter getaway, but you should. In early February, my wife, Grace, and I escaped the New Hampshire winter for a weekend in Edgartown, Massachusetts. It wasn’t the kind of island retreat most often thought of when the snow flies. But it suited us just fine. The chance to be near the ocean, even a frigid Atlantic along the New England coast, felt warming.
Lighthouse Beach in Edgartown, Massachusetts Photo Credit: Ian Aldrich
And it was.
This story begins, however, with our accommodations. Our home for the weekend was the grand Harbor View Hotel, where we didn’t so much have a room as a cottage, replete with a sun drenched bedroom, elegant kitchen and bath, and full-blown living area.
The Harbor View first opened its doors in 1891, just when the whaling industry was gasping its last breath. That development had an especially hard impact on Edgartown. It seemed like a whole town was on the verge of closing up shop. The large captain’s homes that define the town’s architecture were in ruin. So was the harbor. And then something extraordinary happened. In the middle of this wicked downturn, a few forward-thinking investors pulled together $5,000 and built a hotel. The demand for whale oil might be gone, they reasoned, but maybe it’s effect could be replaced by tourism.
It wasn’t an instant miracle, mind you, but over time the Harbor View became an anchor point for the town, now looking forward with its whaling past behind it. It was the place for cast and crew to stay when the film Jaws was made on Martha’s Vineyard in the 1970s, and today calls to all kinds of island visitors throughout the year, from young families to honeymooning couples to retirees.
Its location doesn’t hurt. Situated just a few minutes’ walk from downtown Edgartown, the Harbor View – the water, even an open lighthouse – calls to those who simply want to retire their car for the weekend. And in winter, when rates are down but the view of the harbor remains, it’s a prime retreat.
Actually, the entire island is. That’s the thing about popular summer destinations in the off-season. They’re still open. The beaches, restaurants, and shops still welcome visitors. Sure, the ice cream stand may be closed for the season, but you can still get the best burger you’ve ever tasted at Atria in Edgartown, delicious scallops at Henry’s Hotel Bar, the Harbor View’s year-round restaurant, or find an outstanding collection of island-made brews at Off Shore Ale in Oak Bluffs.
But it’s also when a place like the Vineyard is quieter, less frenetic, slower; when a visitor can really get a sense of the soul of a place. Who the characters are. How it operates. At breakfast one morning at an Edgartown café called Espresso Love, we were surrounded by year-round residents. As we meandered through a morning of breakfast burritos and coffee, we heard one man go into great detail about the front step he was replacing. Another complained about a sill that was rotting at his house. A woman nearby discussed some outdoor photography she was going to attempt. These were projects they intended to get to this winter. When there was time. It was like the island was rebooting, resetting itself for another tourist season. Catching its collective breath. We just happened to be lucky enough to step into it.
Elsewhere, we visited an empty beach, then found more solitude at the cliffs in Aquinnah. We passed by quiet forests, through plodding downtown centers, and ate until we could eat no more at the Harbor View’s restaurant, Henry’s Table. It wasn’t the fully-opened Martha’s Vineyard one gets in July, but the February version suited us just fine. Maybe even better. And you can’t put a price on that.
The Harbor View Hotel. The main building, shown here, was constructed in 1891. In the years since, the hotel has added cottages and accommodations.
The hotel lobby gave visitors a nice respite from the weekend’s biting temperatures.
The Harbor View lobby. Photo Credit: Eli Dagostino
Our cottage bedroom alone was as big as some apartments I had in college. And, you know, a little nicer.
Just one half of our bedroom, which included a washer and dryer. At the other end of the room was a desk and work area. Photo Credit: Ian Aldrich
We were big fans of the rest of the cottage, too. Like…
The Kitchen. Photo Credit: Ian Aldrich
And…
The living room. Photo Credit: Ian Aldrich
Did we mention the dining area?
Dining room. Photo Credit: Ian Aldrich
We could have, of course, spent every hour in that beautiful cottage. But the rest of the island called to us.
Edgartown Harbor remains a real working harbor, though it was noticeably quiet during our visit. Photo Credit: Ian AldrichThe season’s more subdued tones gave the water views, like this one in Edgartown, a painterly look. Photo Credit: Ian AldrichIt was much the same at the beaches, where sand and snow came together. And, oh, those beautiful cliffs in Aquinnah. If it weren’t for the wind, we could have stayed out there all afternoon. Photo Credit: Ian Aldrich
When it was time to head back inside, we found quiet, colorful destinations where we could refuel.
Espresso Love in Edgartown. Photo Credit: Ian AldrichWaterside Market in Vineyard Haven. Photo Credit: Ian Aldrich
Then it was back outside we went where we found these beautiful winter scenes.
Vineyard Haven. Photo Credit: Ian AldrichOak Bluffs gazebo. Photo Credit: Ian AldrichHibernating boats in Vineyard Haven. Photo Credit: Ian AldrichNot exactly swimmable, but still worth a visit. Photo Credit: Ian AldrichEarly morning view of Edgartown Harbor. Photo Credit: Ian Aldrich
And finally…
Ian Aldrich
Ian Aldrich is the executive editor at Yankee, where he has worked for more for two decades. As the magazine’s staff feature writer, he writes stories that delve deep into issues facing communities throughout New England. In 2019 he received gold in the reporting category at the annual City-Regional Magazine conference for his story on New England’s opioid crisis. Ian’s work has been recognized by both the Best American Sports and Best American Travel Writing anthologies. He lives with his family in Dublin, New Hampshire.
Great article and mirrors my own personal experience — I’ve actually been there myself on Martha’s Vineyard over President’s Day Weekend in February with my two friends who live in Connecticut. They go every year at the same time and wouldn’t think of missing it. You do feel more a part of the normal community rather than a summer tourist and very much enjoy the quieter pace of life feeling that the winter months bring to the Vineyard!
I have always enjoyed visits to ordinarily summer destinations in the off-season, especially in the dead of winter. I believe it is rooted in the sometime-desire for solitude that all of us feel at one time or another.
I was first exposed to this phenomenon New Years 1959 into 1960 when I was 15 years old. I was staying with a friend in Sheepshead Bay Brooklyn after celebrating in NYC Times Square the night before with a high school flame and my cousin and her boy friend. New Years Eve we had watched the darkly black & white apocalyptic movie movie “On The Beach” at a theater just off Times Square. It focused on a small group of nuclear war survivors in Australia awaiting the impending doom of certain nuclear fallout. On New years morning I arose before everyone else and walked out of the cottage directly on to the deserted Coney Island beach/amusement area. As I traipsed along the deserted, partially snow covered beach, I tried to reconcile the horrible movie scenes of the night before as I wandered through sand and snow humming Ernest Gold’s various renditions of “Waltzing Matilda” that framed the movie. Now at 72, I always look for a beach-in-winter when I wish to experience true solitude.
Fast forward to 2005, ’06 when I spent two glorious summers, with my late husband, aboard our 54 ft, twin diesel, motor yacht from which we explored all the towns of Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket as well. For me, nothing can ever rival/replace the storybook life we led docked in the Fishing Village of Menemsha on Martha’s Vineyard. The paths out to the Aquinnah Cliffs, simple dock walks, sunsets on Menemsha beach, Stanley Larsen over at the Menemsha Fish Market who supplied us with fresh caught Lobster one night and harpooned sword fish the next…as we alternated between those two heavenly entrees for over a week of dinners. In 2006 we were lucky enough to experience Illumination Night in Oak Bluffs. From the various marinas we were docked at, I managed to hike out to every lighthouse on the Vineyard. Between those two seasons we were able to experience the entire Cape Cod National Sea Shore all the way up to Provincetown from the deck of our boat.
I was drawn to Ian Aldrich’s article when I first saw it in the pages of my recent Yankee Magazine. I enjoyed re-reading it here on-line. Mr. Aldrich has managed to very precisely capture my thoughts and desires to revisit Martha’s Vineyard in Winter. It would give me a great sense of pleasure to stroll some of the same paths in winter’s solitude and recall the many summer days I spent there with my husband walking hand-in-hand.
More of a footnote: Ian Aldrich is my favorite Yankee writer/editor…while I have to make room for Edie Clark of course…only wish I had their ability to write essays and short stories….sorry this was so long…ramblings of an old lady….thank you.
My husband and I are sitting in the Steamship authority ferry line waiting to go off island. We stayed in the exact same room at the HarborView In! It was beautiful and a wonderful anniversary get away!
What a wonderful article! Lived on MV August of ’71 through June of ’73. While I loved the beaches in the Summers, picking beach plums and making beach plum jam, going to the Up Island Bakery in West Tisbury, and seeing the Shenandoah in Vineyard Haven harbor between her sailing cruises, digging for clams with my friends, my all time favorite season was Winter – going to West Chop and taking pictures of the scraggly trees near the lighthouse on a snowy cold afternoon, sipping coffee and eating tuna fish sandwiches on whole wheat bread at the Black Dog, and the solitude of having one boat leaving and coming per day. It was very peaceful and refreshing!
Great article and mirrors my own personal experience — I’ve actually been there myself on Martha’s Vineyard over President’s Day Weekend in February with my two friends who live in Connecticut. They go every year at the same time and wouldn’t think of missing it. You do feel more a part of the normal community rather than a summer tourist and very much enjoy the quieter pace of life feeling that the winter months bring to the Vineyard!
Know the Vineyard well from many, many years ago – loved the winter article as I first lived on the Vineyard during a winter!
I have always enjoyed visits to ordinarily summer destinations in the off-season, especially in the dead of winter. I believe it is rooted in the sometime-desire for solitude that all of us feel at one time or another.
I was first exposed to this phenomenon New Years 1959 into 1960 when I was 15 years old. I was staying with a friend in Sheepshead Bay Brooklyn after celebrating in NYC Times Square the night before with a high school flame and my cousin and her boy friend. New Years Eve we had watched the darkly black & white apocalyptic movie movie “On The Beach” at a theater just off Times Square. It focused on a small group of nuclear war survivors in Australia awaiting the impending doom of certain nuclear fallout. On New years morning I arose before everyone else and walked out of the cottage directly on to the deserted Coney Island beach/amusement area. As I traipsed along the deserted, partially snow covered beach, I tried to reconcile the horrible movie scenes of the night before as I wandered through sand and snow humming Ernest Gold’s various renditions of “Waltzing Matilda” that framed the movie. Now at 72, I always look for a beach-in-winter when I wish to experience true solitude.
Fast forward to 2005, ’06 when I spent two glorious summers, with my late husband, aboard our 54 ft, twin diesel, motor yacht from which we explored all the towns of Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket as well. For me, nothing can ever rival/replace the storybook life we led docked in the Fishing Village of Menemsha on Martha’s Vineyard. The paths out to the Aquinnah Cliffs, simple dock walks, sunsets on Menemsha beach, Stanley Larsen over at the Menemsha Fish Market who supplied us with fresh caught Lobster one night and harpooned sword fish the next…as we alternated between those two heavenly entrees for over a week of dinners. In 2006 we were lucky enough to experience Illumination Night in Oak Bluffs. From the various marinas we were docked at, I managed to hike out to every lighthouse on the Vineyard. Between those two seasons we were able to experience the entire Cape Cod National Sea Shore all the way up to Provincetown from the deck of our boat.
I was drawn to Ian Aldrich’s article when I first saw it in the pages of my recent Yankee Magazine. I enjoyed re-reading it here on-line. Mr. Aldrich has managed to very precisely capture my thoughts and desires to revisit Martha’s Vineyard in Winter. It would give me a great sense of pleasure to stroll some of the same paths in winter’s solitude and recall the many summer days I spent there with my husband walking hand-in-hand.
More of a footnote: Ian Aldrich is my favorite Yankee writer/editor…while I have to make room for Edie Clark of course…only wish I had their ability to write essays and short stories….sorry this was so long…ramblings of an old lady….thank you.
My husband and I are sitting in the Steamship authority ferry line waiting to go off island. We stayed in the exact same room at the HarborView In! It was beautiful and a wonderful anniversary get away!
What a wonderful article! Lived on MV August of ’71 through June of ’73. While I loved the beaches in the Summers, picking beach plums and making beach plum jam, going to the Up Island Bakery in West Tisbury, and seeing the Shenandoah in Vineyard Haven harbor between her sailing cruises, digging for clams with my friends, my all time favorite season was Winter – going to West Chop and taking pictures of the scraggly trees near the lighthouse on a snowy cold afternoon, sipping coffee and eating tuna fish sandwiches on whole wheat bread at the Black Dog, and the solitude of having one boat leaving and coming per day. It was very peaceful and refreshing!