Massachusetts

Historic Salem, Massachusetts | A City Wrapped in Layers

Historic Salem, Massachusetts, is a city of layers. If you seek only witches here, you are merely scratching the surface.

By Alyson Horrocks

Oct 11 2017

1-house-seven-gables

The House of Seven Gables, built in 1688.

Photo Credit : Alyson Horrocks

Historic Salem, Massachusetts, is a city of layers—one historical era layered upon another. It’s evident in the architecture; from the dark, medieval homes of the original settlers, to the grand wood and brick 19th century Federal houses built in the McIntire district for those made wealthy by Salem’s preeminent seaport. Settled by hardline Puritans, intolerant of anyone veering from their established norms, Salem reached its well-known fanatical climax with the witch trials of 1692. Though short-lived, this appalling chapter in the city’s history left a stain so dark and abiding that over three centuries later the witch-hunt remains the biggest draw for tourists. Such interest was helped along by Salem whole-heartedly embracing its past sin and turning it into a very profitable industry. While I love the witchy side of Salem, it’s a city of many stories—if you seek only witches here, you are merely scratching the surface.

The House of Seven Gables, built in 1688
The House of Seven Gables, built in 1688.
Photo Credit : Alyson Horrocks

Salem has produced vast fortunes, brave souls, and brilliant minds. One of the most brilliant was Nathaniel Hawthorne. The author of The Scarlet LetterThe House of SevenGables, and many other works was born in Salem on Independence Day in 1804—at the height of Salem’s prosperity. It was the wealthiest seaport per capita in the country at the time, and his father was a ship’s captain. Before Nathaniel’s fourth birthday, his father died at sea. As the boy grew, Salem began to lose much of its seafaring luster due to the embargo of 1807. It was a city beginning its decline. All of the success and failure of his city, the death and sadness, the tales of the sea and of long-ago witch-hunts must have made a deep impression on the mind of the young, fatherless Hawthorne. Salem, and its joys and sorrows, created this author of deeply moral and dark tales.

The Salem of Hawthorne’s era is still here, woven into the tapestry of the 21st century. The places that helped forge his personality are accessible to visitors today. A must-see on any Hawthorne-inspired agenda is a visit to The House of Seven Gables. This non-profit site also includes Nathaniel’s birthplace and other historic buildings that have been moved to the property since it opened for public tours over a hundred years ago.

The 17th century house was once owned by Hawthorne’s cousin, Susanna Ingersoll, and her tales of the home’s history, as well as his own visits to the place, were the inspiration for the novel, The House of Seven Gables.

The House of Seven Gables interior.
The House of Seven Gables interior.
Photo Credit : Alyson Horrocks
Inside the House of the Seven Gables.
Inside the House of the Seven Gables.
Photo Credit : Alyson Horrocks
Nathaniel Hawthorne's birthplace
The birthplace of Nathaniel Hawthorne.
Photo Credit : Alyson Horrocks
Outside the House of Seven Gables.
Outside the House of Seven Gables.
Photo Credit : Alyson Horrocks
The Counting House on the Seven Gables property. Derby Wharf can be seen in the background..
The Counting House on the Seven Gables property. Derby Wharf can be seen in the background..
Photo Credit : Alyson Horrocks
The property fence between the House of Seven Gables and harbor.
The property fence between the House of Seven Gables and harbor.
Photo Credit : Alyson Horrocks
The House of Seven Gables, with the gardens in a winter slumber.
The House of Seven Gables, with the gardens in a winter slumber.
Photo Credit : Alyson Horrocks

Salem is a walkable city, and as you stroll down Derby and Essex Streets, or Washington Square and others, it’s easy to imagine it in Hawthorne’s day.

Ye Old Pepper Companie has been around since Hawthorne was a toddler.
Ye Old Pepper Companie has been around since Hawthorne was a toddler.
Photo Credit : Alyson Horrocks
West India Goods Store
West India Goods Store, was built in the year of Hawthorne’s birth, and is now run by the National Park Service.
Photo Credit : Alyson Horrocks

Nathaniel was surveyor of the port at the Custom House for three years, which served as his inspiration for the preface of The Scarlet Letter.

The Custom House
The Custom House
Photo Credit : Alyson Horrocks

Across the street from the Custom House, the Friendship of Salem, a replica of a 1797 ship that was once owned by a Salem merchant, sits anchored in the harbor.

The Friendship at Salem Maritime National Historic Site.
The Friendship at Salem Maritime National Historic Site.
Photo Credit : Alyson Horrocks
The Friendship of Salem.
The Friendship of Salem.
Photo Credit : Alyson Horrocks
The Orientation Center
The Orientation Center
Photo Credit : Alyson Horrocks

Evidence of Salem’s reverence for her native son is clear in places like the Hawthorne Hotel and in the statue of the author, which sets prominently on Hawthorne Blvd.

The Statue of Nathaniel Hawthorne.
The Statue of Nathaniel Hawthorne.
Photo Credit : Alyson Horrocks
The Hawthorne Hotel.
The Hawthorne Hotel.
Photo Credit : Alyson Horrocks

Hawthorne Hotel, built in the 1920’s, is not only a lovely place to stay, but also perfect for a good meal at one of its two restaurants, Nathaniel’s and Tavern on the Green.

Nathaniel Hawthorne's portrait hangs over his namesake restaurant.
Nathaniel Hawthorne’s portrait hangs over his namesake restaurant.
Photo Credit : Alyson Horrocks
The lobby of the Hawthorne Hotel.
The lobby of the Hawthorne Hotel.
Photo Credit : Alyson Horrocks
A shop named after Nathaniel's wife, Sophia, is housed in the building where she lived as a child.
A shop named after Nathaniel’s wife, Sophia, is housed in the building where she lived as a child.
Photo Credit : Alyson Horrocks

A gift shop called The Marble Faun, where I bought an antique copy of TheScarlet Letter, is named after one of Hawthorne’s novels.  Nathaniel’s influence runs through every part of Salem.

The Marble Faun
The Marble Faun
Photo Credit : Alyson Horrocks

Before saying goodbye to the Salem of Hawthorne, a stop by the old Burial Point is a must.  An old, white house borders the ancient graves.  This was home to the Peabody’s, and where Hawthorne courted Sophia Peabody before their marriage.

The old Burial Point.
The old Burial Point.
Photo Credit : Alyson Horrocks

Buried nearby is Nathaniel’s great-great grandfather, John Hathorne, a harsh judge who condemned many during the witch trials.  A man, who no doubt, helped fuel Nathaniel’s sense of shame and his introspective morality.

The grave of John Hathorne.
The grave of John Hathorne.
Photo Credit : Alyson Horrocks

Witches will most likely be the enduring draw of Salem, so by all means come for the witches, but stay for Hawthorne.  It isn’t a true visit to Salem unless you scratch the witchy surface.

Have you ever visited historic Salem, Massachusetts?

This post was first published in 2014 and has been updated. 

SEE MORE:
Halloween in Salem, Massachusetts
Revisiting the Salem Willows Park and Arcade
Salem, Massachusetts | Could You Live Here?