Connecticut

Historic Essex, CT | The Perfect Small Town

Surrounded on three sides by water and loaded with small-town charm, historic Essex, CT is a great place to visit in winter.

Historic Essex, CT | The Perfect Small Town

Coffee By Design | Portland, Maine

Photo Credit : Katherine Keenan

Surrounded on three sides by water, historic Essex Village in Essex, CT – the perfect small town – juts into the Connecticut River like a stubby thumb. A few miles south of here, the river empties into Long Island Sound in Old Saybrook, Connecticut.

Historic Essex, CT | The Perfect Connecticut Small Town

While in Essex, all roads lead to the Town Dock and the adjacent Connecticut River Museum, which was once a historic 1878 warehouse. Today the museum remains a touchstone for the town, hosting exhibits, eagle tours, and special events that draw young and old to its sprawling lawn at the water’s edge.

Historic Essex, CT | The Perfect Small Town
Entrance to the museum, with the river beyond.
Photo Credit : Annie Graves

On Main Street, village shops and early Colonial and Federal-era homes jostle side by side. A short stroll quickly reveals why Essex was named the “Perfect Small American Town” in 1,000 Places to See Before You Die. Another guidebook names Essex, CT #1 on its list of “The 100 Best Small Towns in America.”

A pretty Main Street.
Photo Credit : Annie Graves

Everyone knows the Griswold Inn, fondly known as “The Gris,” which has been welcoming travelers since 1776.

The Griswold Inn has been welcoming travelers since 1776.
Photo Credit : Annie Graves

Could there be a more iconic Tap Room? With live music throughout the week, five dining rooms, historical menus, and a trendy Wine Bar, The Gris plays host to a range of appetites. Folks plan weekends around the inn’s famous Hunt Breakfast on Sunday.

Historic Essex, CT | The Perfect Small Town
The inn’s historic Tap Room.
Photo Credit : Annie Graves

The view across the street from the Griswold Inn seems out of another century.

Across the street, Goods & Curiosities sells gifts with a historic theme.
Photo Credit : Annie Graves

And if you’re looking for somewhere to roost in Essex, CT, this beauty on Main Street was for sale during my visit. Check out the birdhouse.

Historic Essex, CT | The Perfect Small Town
Further down Main Street: Historic birdhouse for sale, house included.
Photo Credit : Annie Graves

Post-holiday, these Main Street pups still look pretty jaunty.

Post-holiday, these pups still look jolly.
Photo Credit : Annie Graves

Up and down Main Street, you’ll find plenty of places to duck in out of the cold. Like the Black Seal, for seafood; Olive Oyl‘s for creative takeout, and Essex Coffee & Tea for pastries and cappuccino. Shoppers can spend their doubloons at shops like The French Hen and Toys Ahoy. Still more temptations open up on North Main Street — Truffle Shots and Weekend Kitchen, oh my.

In fact, there’s a bit of a dog theme (this guy hangs out at Essex Coffee & Tea).
Photo Credit : Annie Graves

The best way to discover this “Perfect Small Town,” is on foot. Sidewalks wind past historic homes snugged up against each other, leading down to the harbor in one direction, or north, out of the village onto wide, tree-lined avenues that spill into parks and conservation land.

Fourteen miles of sidewalks invite strolling.
Photo Credit : Annie Graves

Peaceful views invite frequent detours off Main Street…

Historic Essex, CT | The Perfect Small Town
…with frequent detours to the water.
Photo Credit : Annie Graves

…although it hasn’t always been so quiet. In 1814, the British sneaked up the river and burned 27 ships in Essex harbor. This event, historians say, rallied the Americans to eventually defeat the British during the War of 1812. Each May, Essex, CT remembers it all, in a parade led by fife and drum corps dressed in period clothing, who march through the village streets before winding up at the museum, where hundreds gather for a day of festivities.

At other times of the year, the Connecticut River Museum hosts such singular events as the wildly popular Holiday Train Show, a massive, 26-foot model train layout created by Steve Cryan.

Steve Cryan lands a helicopter!
Photo Credit : Annie Graves

Is there such a place as the perfect small town? Essex (which also comprises the villages of Ivoryton and Centerbrook) would say ‘yes there is.’

It’s there in the details…

…pauses to appreciate the details…
Photo Credit : Annie Graves

…and in the larger, lovely landscape of a harbor village steeped in history.

Historic Essex, CT | The Perfect Small Town
…and a final look across the water.
Photo Credit : Annie Graves

Have you ever visited historic Essex Village in Essex, CT?

This post was first published in 2013 and has been updated. 

SEE MORE:
Essex, Connecticut | Could You Live Here?
The Annual Shad Bake in Essex, Connecticut
The Connecticut River Valley in Autumn | Photographs

Annie Graves

More by Annie Graves

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  1. Oh, wow…such beauty in these photos and in the words that take us by the hand through this lovely town!! Thank you for letting us know about this pretty little village, which is now on my to-see list!!! :-}

  2. Ginny,
    we do the Explore New England blogs just for this reason. I hope you take a look at all the ones we have done in the past, and will do in the future.

  3. I use to live in Ivoryton and Centerbrook which are in the town of Essex. One of my favorite things to do was walk all over town and see the beauty. My morning walks were the best when the birds are singing and everything is so peaceful. I still miss my walks. Truly a beautiful little town.

    1. There are only two places to stay in town; the Griswold Inn, in the village proper and the Copper Beach Inn in Ivoryton (part of the town of Essex. Both are lovely.

  4. We are lucky to live here. We pick up after our dogs :). If you haven’t been to Essex, stop in anytime, you will be welcomed.

  5. I will be moving to Essex next month and am thrilled! It is truly a dream come true for me to live in Essex as it it so beautiful, safe and peaceful ????

  6. My wife loves this town and it works for me. She shop, I go to the water and then we eat. A great way to spend the day.

  7. As a 30+ year resident i could say it truly is the best small town in america,we are blessed to have local leaders who work hard everyday to maintain the integrity of the town while a balance of growth of the community.

  8. Visited Old Saybrook, Lyme, and Essex this past Fall. Beautiful scenery. Friendly people. Old Griswold has delicious food. Florence Griswold Museum is excellent. Just a charming area to visit. Great B&Bs.

  9. Hi. Just letting you know that there is another restaurant in Essex. It’s Abbys Place, located in the Dauntless Shipyard with beautiful views of the Connecticut river offering a new take on American cuisine. We’ve been here for seven and a half years. I do hope you come in one day. Please let me know if you do, because I’d like to come out from the kitchen to meet you! – Abby

    1. Abby’s is one of my favorite places. Always great food and friendly service in a charming atmosphere. The orange-infused french toast is to die for!

  10. I live in Ivoryton and love this town and its 3 villages. From the idyllic charm of Essex village to the quaintness of Ivoryton and its famous Ivoryton Playhouse to the Savour Bakery, Centerbrook Barber Shop, steam train and world-class cheese shop in Centerbrook. Also, if you haven’t checked it out yet, there is an incredible Mexican Cantina Restaurant behind The Essex Restaurant (a bit pricey but a hidden gem!).