As a culinary history enthusiast, few things are as irresistible to me as regional cookbooks. I love how what we eat shifts in appearance and flavor in tandem with changes in landscape, native ingredients, foreign influence, and the appreciation of tradition. Variety in local cuisine is what inspires us to seek out new travel destinations, enhances our awareness of the diversity of the larger world, and (perhaps most importantly, in the end) reminds us of home and childhood.
In his new Big American Cookbook(Grand Central Life & Style, 2016), Mario Batali (chef, restauranteur, author, television host, and one of the partners behind the wildly-popular Eataly Italian marketplaces), working with Jim Webster, has produced an impressive, hefty tome of 250 All-American recipes (whittled down from a master list of 900). It’s a love letter to American cooking and the way it represents our cultural heritage.
No big surprise … I love it. I’m still kicking myself for over-booking my weekends this fall and missing Batali’s appearance earlier this month at The Music Hall in Portsmouth, NH as part of their Writers on a New England Stage series (of which Yankee is a sponsor).
The book covers eight regions in all (New England, Mid-Atlantic, Deep South, Gulf Coast, Great Lakes, The Heartland, Southwest, and Pacific Coast), and each begins with a fun, illustrated map, plus full-color photos of nearly every dish. You’ll also find bonus primers and sidebars peppered throughout on subjects like BBQ, hand pies, peaches, and roast beef sandwiches.
With an emphasis on familiar family dishes that are doable in any home kitchen, it’s easy to feel inspired just by flipping the pages. Among the first recipes I bookmarked were Maryland Smith Island Cake, Kentucky Beer Cheese, Southwest Funeral Potatoes, and the Floria Fried Grouper Sandwich. Having just returned from a Gulf Coast honeymoon, where I ate a LOT of fresh grouper, this was especially fun to see.
And how about our fair six states? In covering the Northeast/New England, Batali’s recipes hit me right where it counts, in my love for classic New England comfort food. Hello, you beautiful Yankee Pot Roast, Indian Pudding, Baked Beans, Whoopie Pies, and Tourtiere!
Other Yankee favorites I was delighted to see represented? The classic New England fried clam roll, served in a top-split hot dog bun, and that New England summertime favorite, Grape-Nuts ice cream. Made with Grape-Nuts cereal and malted milk powder, its sweet and nutty flavor is unmatched.
There’s also a recipe for New England’s most notable take on an all-American favorite — Apple Pie with Cheddar. If you’ve never tried a wedge of warm apple pie topped with a thin slice of sharp cheddar (some Yankees like to grate the cheese for maximum coverage and texture control), you’re truly missing out.
Still not convinced? I’m pleased to be able to share Mario’s recipe. I think it would make the perfect addition to this year’s holiday table.
Aimee Tucker is Yankee Magazine’s Home Editor and the Senior Digital Editor of NewEngland.com. A lifelong New Englander and Yankee contributor since 2010, Aimee has written columns devoted to history, foliage, retro food, and architecture, and regularly shares her experiences in New England travel, home, and gardening. Her most memorable Yankee experiences to date include meeting Stephen King, singing along to a James Taylor Fourth of July concert at Tanglewood, and taking to the skies in the Hood blimp for an open-air tour of the Massachusetts coastline.