What makes Susanna’s ice cream extraordinary aren’t just the flavors, which are seasonal, often exotic, and intense: white peach and ginger, Damson plum, strawberry-champagne. It’s also the hard work that goes into sourcing, prepping, and hand-mixing every ingredient. Many ice creameries–even local, award-winning ones–buy commercial bases of cream, sugar, and natural stabilizers such as guar gum and carrageenan and then customize them with their own flavors. Susanna, on the other hand, makes custard-based ice creams from scratch, cooking egg yolks, fresh cream from Arruda’s Dairy, and sugar together, and then slowly chilling the result to produce a base that’s both richer and lighter than you’ll find elsewhere. It’s a labor of love and a production method that’s costly and difficult to scale up, which is why Susanna’s ice cream is available only at Sweet Berry Farm and at the Coastal Growers’ Market in Saunderstown (summer) or North Kingstown (winter); it’s $9.99 a pint, $5.49 a half-pint.–Yankee Magazine, July/August 2011
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