Best Neighborhood RestaurantIf only every enclave could have a place like this. The menu takes its inspiration from the cuisines of the western Mediterranean, but owner Steve Johnson buys most of his produce, fish, and even meat from people he considers neighbors. Plates such as crispy roasted chicken with baby Brussels sprouts and sauteed cod with braised artichokes are refreshingly straightforward. The service is warm and the mood is happy, as though you’re dining with friends you haven’t met yet. Star-chef-turned-owner Steve Johnson has transformed a Central Square fast-food space into a shrine to Slow Food. His utter respect for locally grown produce and fruit, fish and shellfish from local waters, and cheeses crafted on local farms translates into straightforward dishes with subtle, sophisticated spices: Moroccan roast chicken, grilled clams Johnson, or pork with grilled figs. Eat local, taste global.
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